Accusump install

[AZ986S]

Finally finished the 2 qt Accusump install on my 02 Boxster S 3.2.
I spent about $700 in all.

Sorry, I dropped the ball as I didn't take any pictures of the installation but next time I have it up on jack stands I will take a few with the covers removed.

Here's the drawing I did for the tunnel install. It doesn't include the electrical schematics. If anyone wants part numbers, PM me. I don't want to offend anyone or endorse any particular supplier It's just what I used, and my goal was to do the highest quality installation but shopping around for every component to find the best deal/price (especially fittings).



I did not want to mount the accusump in the rear trunk area as that seemed like a bad idea with heat right next to the DME and having to poke holes in the trunk (not to mention leaks etc...). I also ended up doing the remote oil filter mount instead of using a sandwich plate as I don't have a sump extension and I didn't want the filter to protrude beyond the oil sump. So, it worked out perfect. The 2 quart fits well in the tunnel and I fabbed 2 mounting brackets out of flat aluminum stock that attach to the existing coolant pipe mounts and that attach to both mounting clamps on both ends of the cylinder. I bought a used 2 qt accusump with 35-40 psi EPC solenoid valve with pressure switch, had it rebuilt by Canton Racing. All the fittings are black anodized -10AN and the hose is 10AN SS braided Aeroquip 300F / 1,000 psi hose with a min bend radius of 4in. I wanted to use the PTFE hose, but that stuff is wayyyy too stiff... I used a remote oil filter take-off plate mounted to the LNE spin-on oil adapter, and mounted the remote oil filter mount on the vertical wall right next to the water pump area, and used a Napa Gold 1042 spin on filter. There is just enough room to mount it there. It is tight, but with the correct angled fittings, it is doable. I can easily access the oil filter now.

For electrical, I installed an ON/OFF toggle switch on the left side of the batwing insert, and an idiot light (pilot light) on the right side of the batwing insert for when the accusump is dumping (<40 psi). The electrical circuit is pretty simple, just run a fuse tap from the C4 fuse (switched) next to the dead pedal, run it through the master switch, through the NC contact on the EPC pressure switch, then to the solenoid valve. Ground the other solenoid valve wire. I ran another wire from the NC contact of the pressure switch to the idiot light. Ground the other idiot light wire.

Before starting for the first time, I pre-filled the oil filter with oil before installation, then hand cranked the engine by hand for about 10 revolutions as I didn't want to start the engine dry Then, I removed the fuel pump fuse, and crank the engine for a couple 5 second increments to oil up the engine prior to firing it up. Finally, I re-installed the fuel pump fuse and fired up the engine. With the Accusump off, first thing I checked was the oil pressure gauge on the remote oil filter mount, reading 50 psi, so I breathed a sigh of relief... Then I turned the accusump master switch ON and saw about 50 psi on the air side, so I knew that was working too. Then, then last test was to see if the pre-oiling worked. I made sure I revved up the engine before turning the master switch off, then turned the key to the on position and observed the accusump idiot light ON and heard the oil pre-filling the engine. Then I started the engine and that was such a smooth start! No clatter whatsoever! Inspected everything for leaks, all was good, so I buttoned everything up and took it for a ride.

Observations:

* As the oil gets hotter, the accusump idiot light (on when accusump dumping) turns on at RPMs<2,200, so at idle and at low rpms.
* Have to rev up RPMs > 3,000 to recharge the accusump, especially prior to shutting off engine.

I might just use the pre-oiling then shut the accusump off for street driving, unless there is a benefit to keeping it on all the time?

For DE, track and Auto-X days, it will stay on all the time.

[Lemming]

Nice writeup. If anyone is thinking of doing this, I have a 3-qt accusump system that I will be selling soon.

[steved0x]

I would be interested to see a photo of the remote oil filter mount the next time you are under there. Sounds like a very slick install. Us 97-2001 are stuck with the big fuel filter in the tunnel...

[AZ986S]

One thing that I would consider is adding a city mode switch with a timed relay. So when you turn the key to the ON position, the relay would engage the EPC valve for 5 seconds or so then turn it off so it can be recharged and so it doesn't dump all the time at red light stops. This would be ideal for the pre-oiling function.

[AZ986S]

OK so I promised I would get some photos from my Accusump installation in the tunnel. IMHO this is the best spot to put it if you can. Out of sight, doesn't take up any trunk space, doesn't heat up up the ECU etc... The only compromise is that it is difficult to access it and hard to see the gauge on the air side. My thought is to put a remotely mounted gauge using an electric sender, probably in the cabin.

So here are some pics:









Here you can see the 2 hoses going around just behind the motor mount enroute to the remote oil filter:



And this is the remotely mounted oil filter. It is located on the passenger side, next to the water pump, on the upright wall. There was just enough room to mount it there with a Napa Gold 1042 filter:



I haven't used it on the track yet, but I'm heading to Inde Motorsports Ranch in Wilcox, AZ on Labor Day weekend. So the way I use it is I power up the Accusump master switch just prior to starting the engine for a few seconds in order to pre-oil. Engine starts soooo much smoother. This has got to be good for reducing startup wear... I then turn it off and let it recharge during normal street driving. If I leave it on, it will start dumping at every stop or light.

[AZ986S]

Here is a photo of the gauge and panel I custom made.



I have 2 switches: 1 for the Accusump and 1 for the radiator fans (high speed).
The orange pilot light on the bottom portion comes on when the Accusump is dumping (solenoid valve open). The left gauge is for oil temp, sender mounted on rear of the driver's side head. The right gauge is the oil pressure, sender mounted where the original pressure switch was mounted (passenger side front of head). These are VDO gauges. I originally wanted to install the Speedhut gauges, but they wanted 5 weeks to make and deliver them...

I tried to match the gauge bezel color with the instrument cluster gauge bezels (chrome), but the gauge bezels protrude way more than I like, so I might have to redo the faceplate with 48 mm dia holes to flush mount the gauges.

I wired the existing oil pressure switch wire that goes to the instrument cluster low oil pressure warning light in parallel to the oil pressure gauge warning light, so they both come on when oil pressure is below 7 psi. The issue I have now is that the lights come on when oil is at temp (190-200F), whereas it didn't before, so I assume the original pressure switch is set to something less than 7 psi.

Now that was annoying me, so I upgraded to latest oil pressure relief valve and spring, thinking the low oil pressure was caused by a broken spring or bound piston. On the upgraded parts, the spring is slightly longer and the piston has the bevel on top, but the old piston and springs looked just fine.

After installing this, no difference in the oil pressure, still around 7 psi at idle. I ordered 10 L of Motul 8100 Excess 5w40 oil as I have read that it is a very good track oil and it will probably bump up the idle pressure some. More to come...

[itsnotanova]

I'm jealous that you can mount yours in the tunnel. My only critique/suggestion is that I've found it helpful to check the pressure in the tank every once in awhile. I'm having issues with my release valve and have had to look at the gauge to see if the tank has oil in it. With your gauge down underneath it might be difficult to see

[steved0x]

Very nice install! I have the VDO Oil gauge and have had the warning light flicker once at idle after coming off a hot track session. I have actually gone to 10W50 and the oil.pressure seems to be a little better when hot vs 5W40.

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by steved0x

Very nice install! I have the VDO Oil gauge and have had the warning light flicker once at idle after coming off a hot track session. I have actually gone to 10W50 and the oil.pressure seems to be a little better when hot vs 5W40.

Did you replace your original oil pressure sender switch with the dual 7 psi warning contact / sender unit from VDO? Did you install the larger bezel on the gauges or is your install flush mounted? What oil are you using now? I was thinking of trying the Mobil 1 5w50 if I still see low low idle pressure.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by AZ986S

Did you replace your original oil pressure sender switch with the dual 7 psi warning contact / sender unit from VDO? Did you install the larger bezel on the gauges or is your install flush mounted? What oil are you using now? I was thinking of trying the Mobil 1 5w50 if I still see low low idle pressure.

Yeah, my original oil pressure switch was replaced with the VDO brand dual oil pressure sensor/low pressure switch.

My VDO gauges are the VDO Vision black, they are not flush mount but the bezel is very unobtrusive and only sticks out a little in front and only overhangs the hole a little bit. I don't think yours looks bad, I do see where the bezel is protruding, but I think it still looks good

I am on Millers Nano 10W50 (previously Millers Nano 5W40) but I have heard nothing but good about the Mobil 1 5W50.

[AZ986S]

Concerning the new oil pressure relief valve install, DIY articles suggest a loss of 0.25-0.5 qt of oil after removing the bolt, so I was prepared with a catch pan. This only applies to unmodified oiling systems, as I learned...

When I removed the bolt, well over 3 quarts of oil came out and kept on going before I put the bolt back in. I believe this was because I have an Accusump and a remote oil filter, but can anybody explain this!!! How could this happen if the full flow oil filter still has an anti drainback valve? Or is there something else I am missing?

[AZ986S]

OK, here's an update on my low oil pressure issues.

As mentioned previously, I've installed a 2 qt Accusump with a remote oil filter with a 1042 Napa Gold filter. I Also installed VDO oil temp and oil pressure gauges replacing the original oil pressure switch with the dual switch/sender unit from VDO. I then originally filled with Total Quartz 5w40 oil which I had been using for the last year without issues before the accusump install (no low oil pressure, at least no warning light). When the oil temp gets hotter than 200F, it will set the low oil pressure warning light (7 psi or less) at idle.

In a quest to fix the low oil pressure, I upgraded the pressure relief valve as mentioned in this thread, with no difference in the oil pressure. I then filled with Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 oil. This weekend I went to a DE event at INDE Motorsport Ranch in AZ, and, while reviewing the video footage, noticed that the accusump dumping light I installed on my dash was coming ON on hard right turns, and also less on left turns. What I didn't like is that occasionally, the low oil pressure warning light would come ON (maybe a flicker but sometimes 1-2 seconds) on those prolonged (6-7 seconds) right hand turns!!!! I din't notice it at the track (focused on driving).

So now, I'm freaking out. Today I went ahead and filled with Mobil 1 5w50 (on sale at NAPA), at the recommendation of my indie mechanic and driving instructor. I'm still seeing the low oil pressure warning light when the oil is up to temp, but barely...

What the heck is going on? Could the oil pump itself be worn out?
At startup, I do get up to 60 psi cold, but then it quickly goes down as the oil heats up. Could the filter be creating too much oil pressure drop? (accusump is AFTER the oil filter, and there is a check valve to prevent backflow). I'm thinking that the oil pump does not have enough pressure/flow to refill the Accusump and that is why I'm seeing the low pressure light at the track. This should not happen with an Accusump!

JFP in PA, any ideas? Can these pumps wear? Do I need a coarser filter like the LNE washable one? Or are my bearings worn out? Engine has 81,000 miles and runs great!

Thanks

BTW it was a blast at INDE, as I'll post some video. Oil temp did not get above 235F. And BTW I'm on street tires (R-S3s).

[Anker]

Ir it were my car I would replace the oil pump.

[itsnotanova]

Clogged pick up tube?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by AZ986S

OK, here's an update on my low oil pressure issues.

As mentioned previously, I've installed a 2 qt Accusump with a remote oil filter with a 1042 Napa Gold filter. I Also installed VDO oil temp and oil pressure gauges replacing the original oil pressure switch with the dual switch/sender unit from VDO. I then originally filled with Total Quartz 5w40 oil which I had been using for the last year without issues before the accusump install (no low oil pressure, at least no warning light). When the oil temp gets hotter than 200F, it will set the low oil pressure warning light (7 psi or less) at idle.

In a quest to fix the low oil pressure, I upgraded the pressure relief valve as mentioned in this thread, with no difference in the oil pressure. I then filled with Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 oil. This weekend I went to a DE event at INDE Motorsport Ranch in AZ, and, while reviewing the video footage, noticed that the accusump dumping light I installed on my dash was coming ON on hard right turns, and also less on left turns. What I didn't like is that occasionally, the low oil pressure warning light would come ON (maybe a flicker but sometimes 1-2 seconds) on those prolonged (6-7 seconds) right hand turns!!!! I din't notice it at the track (focused on driving).

So now, I'm freaking out. Today I went ahead and filled with Mobil 1 5w50 (on sale at NAPA), at the recommendation of my indie mechanic and driving instructor. I'm still seeing the low oil pressure warning light when the oil is up to temp, but barely...

What the heck is going on? Could the oil pump itself be worn out?
At startup, I do get up to 60 psi cold, but then it quickly goes down as the oil heats up. Could the filter be creating too much oil pressure drop? (accusump is AFTER the oil filter, and there is a check valve to prevent backflow). I'm thinking that the oil pump does not have enough pressure/flow to refill the Accusump and that is why I'm seeing the low pressure light at the track. This should not happen with an Accusump!

JFP in PA, any ideas? Can these pumps wear? Do I need a coarser filter like the LNE washable one? Or are my bearings worn out? Engine has 81,000 miles and runs great!

Thanks

BTW it was a blast at INDE, as I'll post some video. Oil temp did not get above 235F. And BTW I'm on street tires (R-S3s).

We have seen the oil pumps go bad, usually from accumulated debris in the oil. The oil pump drives are also known to fail, but those usually just snap leaving you without any oil. The is also a pressure regulator system in the pump that consists of a piston and spring which can fail, lowering the oil pressure. This is the easiest thing to check as you can remove it through an external plug, and there is an updated replacement set up specifically to improve low RPM oil pressure. As the updated components sell for around $20, I'd start there. If that doesn't work, pull the pump casset and check the pump for wear.

[steved0x]

When I dropped my oil pan cover the first time, the oil.pickup tube was covered in snake like strands of sealant, possibly blocking some flow.

Once the accusump is pressurized, it doesn't take any oil away from the system. When it is recharging, it does take some oil pressure away but I think it is not major.

The 1042 filter is used on corvettes and the like, it is a very high flow filter, I don't think it I your issue.

[911monty]

First off I love AN hose and fittings. I also see that you changed the relief spring and piston. Looking at your pics from a fluid flow dynamics perspective my first thought was "wow those high pressure brass 90s from the adaptor are hugely restrictive". I'm pretty sure this was done to create a solid support for the hoses etc from the dynamics encountered during racing but unfortunately 90 degree fittings are basically a block wall to fluid flow. And this is the first and last thing the oil pump sees. Add to this the restricted id for high pressure and this is probably affecting fluid flow and ultimately pressure, (Decrease velocity ( the 90), increase pressure (pump discharge) creating a pressure drop across each 90 . Before jumping into the deep end and replacing parts, FWIW My .02 and an easy test is to remove the brass 90s, install 1/2" to -10 AN bushings into the adaptor, then a 90 deg -10 AN ell to your hose. The larger id and smooth radius of the AN fitting will be much less restrictive to fluid flow.

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

Clogged pick up tube?

Thanks.
I dropped the sump plate when I installed the EBS oil baffles about 6 months ago and it was pretty clean in there, but off course, there could be sealant in there now after re-sealing...

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by 911monty

First off I love AN hose and fittings. I also see that you changed the relief spring and piston. Looking at your pics from a fluid flow dynamics perspective my first thought was "wow those high pressure brass 90s from the adaptor are hugely restrictive". I'm pretty sure this was done to create a solid support for the hoses etc from the dynamics encountered during racing but unfortunately 90 degree fittings are basically a block wall to fluid flow. And this is the first and last thing the oil pump sees. Add to this the restricted id for high pressure and this is probably affecting fluid flow and ultimately pressure, (Decrease velocity ( the 90), increase pressure (pump discharge) creating a pressure drop across each 90 . Before jumping into the deep end and replacing parts, FWIW My .02 and an easy test is to remove the brass 90s, install 1/2" to -10 AN bushings into the adaptor, then a 90 deg -10 AN ell to your hose. The larger id and smooth radius of the AN fitting will be much less restrictive to fluid flow.

Thanks for the response.
I used the low profile brass 90 deg fittings for clearance. Initially I wanted to do just what you suggested (1/2 to -10 bushing then 90 deg -10 L), but this would have extended the L about 1 in below the oil sump plate. I will probably try this as I have the fittings, but I'm worried about shearing off those fittings and loosing oil at the track

I think I saw low profile AN "Ls" available, so that may help for clearance, but probably won't be as good as the smooth flowing standard "L".

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

We have seen the oil pumps go bad, usually from accumulated debris in the oil. The oil pump drives are also known to fail, but those usually just snap leaving you without any oil. The is also a pressure regulator system in the pump that consists of a piston and spring which can fail, lowering the oil pressure. This is the easiest thing to check as you can remove it through an external plug, and there is an updated replacement set up specifically to improve low RPM oil pressure. As the updated components sell for around $20, I'd start there. If that doesn't work, pull the pump casset and check the pump for wear.

I did just update the relief valve with the following parts:

Piston 99710712501
Spring 99610712753
Gasket 99610712350

Is the Low RPM kit different than this?