Finally finished the 2 qt Accusump install on my 02 Boxster S 3.2.
I spent about $700 in all.
Sorry, I dropped the ball as I didn't take any pictures of the installation but next time I have it up on jack stands I will take a few with the covers removed.
Here's the drawing I did for the tunnel install. It doesn't include the electrical schematics. If anyone wants part numbers, PM me. I don't want to offend anyone or endorse any particular supplier
It's just what I used, and my goal was to do the highest quality installation but shopping around for every component to find the best deal/price (especially fittings).
I did not want to mount the accusump in the rear trunk area as that seemed like a bad idea with heat right next to the DME and having to poke holes in the trunk (not to mention leaks etc...). I also ended up doing the remote oil filter mount instead of using a sandwich plate as I don't have a sump extension and I didn't want the filter to protrude beyond the oil sump. So, it worked out perfect. The 2 quart fits well in the tunnel and I fabbed 2 mounting brackets out of flat aluminum stock that attach to the existing coolant pipe mounts and that attach to both mounting clamps on both ends of the cylinder. I bought a used 2 qt accusump with 35-40 psi EPC solenoid valve with pressure switch, had it rebuilt by Canton Racing. All the fittings are black anodized -10AN and the hose is 10AN SS braided Aeroquip 300F / 1,000 psi hose with a min bend radius of 4in. I wanted to use the PTFE hose, but that stuff is wayyyy too stiff... I used a remote oil filter take-off plate mounted to the LNE spin-on oil adapter, and mounted the remote oil filter mount on the vertical wall right next to the water pump area, and used a Napa Gold 1042 spin on filter. There is just enough room to mount it there. It is tight, but with the correct angled fittings, it is doable. I can easily access the oil filter now.
For electrical, I installed an ON/OFF toggle switch on the left side of the batwing insert, and an idiot light (pilot light) on the right side of the batwing insert for when the accusump is dumping (<40 psi). The electrical circuit is pretty simple, just run a fuse tap from the C4 fuse (switched) next to the dead pedal, run it through the master switch, through the NC contact on the EPC pressure switch, then to the solenoid valve. Ground the other solenoid valve wire. I ran another wire from the NC contact of the pressure switch to the idiot light. Ground the other idiot light wire.
Before starting for the first time, I pre-filled the oil filter with oil before installation, then hand cranked the engine by hand for about 10 revolutions as I didn't want to start the engine dry
Then, I removed the fuel pump fuse, and crank the engine for a couple 5 second increments to oil up the engine prior to firing it up. Finally, I re-installed the fuel pump fuse and fired up the engine. With the Accusump off, first thing I checked was the oil pressure gauge on the remote oil filter mount, reading 50 psi, so I breathed a sigh of relief... Then I turned the accusump master switch ON and saw about 50 psi on the air side, so I knew that was working too. Then, then last test was to see if the pre-oiling worked. I made sure I revved up the engine before turning the master switch off, then turned the key to the on position and observed the accusump idiot light ON and heard the oil pre-filling the engine. Then I started the engine and that was such a smooth start! No clatter whatsoever! Inspected everything for leaks, all was good, so I buttoned everything up and took it for a ride.
Observations:
* As the oil gets hotter, the accusump idiot light (on when accusump dumping) turns on at RPMs<2,200, so at idle and at low rpms.
* Have to rev up RPMs > 3,000 to recharge the accusump, especially prior to shutting off engine.
I might just use the pre-oiling then shut the accusump off for street driving, unless there is a benefit to keeping it on all the time?
For DE, track and Auto-X days, it will stay on all the time.