So... I have this spare engine.

[elgyqc]

My 2000 Boxster is running fine but the cam deviations are limit so I was thinking about dropping the engine to change the cam chain pads and check the IMSB and replace necessary clutch parts at the same time. Unfortunately this would mean the car would be off the road for a good part of the driving season (which for me is April to November, if I'm lucky, here in Quebec). I know how slow I am at getting projects done so started thinking about buying an engine that I could check over then install in the car and take my time to do the necessary stuff to the original engine.
So in Juin 2020 I found what looked like a good deal on an engine out of a wrecked 2000 and I bought it... thinking that the border would be open again relatively quickly. Well, I was finally able to get it delivered to my garage in mid December... long story, with a happy ending.
Now with the engine on my engine stand I have started checking it out. First impression is positive i.e. it doesn't look like a piece of scrap. It is supposed to have just under 100K miles on it (my original engine has about 87K miles).
So far I have...
- removed the clutch and flywheel - minimum wear and so it will likely stay on the engine.
- removed and verified the water pump - looks good, no looseness in the bearing and the impeller is pristine.
- removed the IMSB flange and checked the bearing after removing the bearing's seal ... it looks fine, no play and it is a double row. I plan to have a closer look but at this point I am planning to put a new o-ring on the flange and button it up.
- removed and cut open the oil filter - super clean, no metal or plastic worth mentioning.
I have not as yet inspected the cylinders with my borescope, that's next on the list.
I have been going back and forth on whether to dive deeper, like changing the cam chain pads before installing it in the car, but the general condition of the engine and especially the lack of plastic in the filter has my leaning toward installing it as is as long as the cylinders look OK.

[Dllrd23]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

My 2000 Boxster is running fine but the cam deviations are limit so I was thinking about dropping the engine to change the cam chain pads and check the IMSB and replace necessary clutch parts at the same time. Unfortunately this would mean the car would be off the road for a good part of the driving season (which for me is April to November, if I'm lucky, here in Quebec). I know how slow I am at getting projects done so started thinking about buying an engine that I could check over then install in the car and take my time to do the necessary stuff to the original engine.
So in Juin 2020 I found what looked like a good deal on an engine out of a wrecked 2000 and I bought it... thinking that the border would be open again relatively quickly. Well, I was finally able to get it delivered to my garage in mid December... long story, with a happy ending.
Now with the engine on my engine stand I have started checking it out. First impression is positive i.e. it doesn't look like a piece of scrap. It is supposed to have just under 100K miles on it (my original engine has about 87K miles).
So far I have...
- removed the clutch and flywheel - minimum wear and so it will likely stay on the engine.
- removed and verified the water pump - looks good, no looseness in the bearing and the impeller is pristine.
- removed the IMSB flange and checked the bearing after removing the bearing's seal ... it looks fine, no play and it is a double row. I plan to have a closer look but at this point I am planning to put a new o-ring on the flange and button it up.
- removed and cut open the oil filter - super clean, no metal or plastic worth mentioning.
I have not as yet inspected the cylinders with my borescope, that's next on the list.
I have been going back and forth on whether to dive deeper, like changing the cam chain pads before installing it in the car, but the general condition of the engine and especially the lack of plastic in the filter has my leaning toward installing it as is as long as the cylinders look OK.

Personally, after inspecting with the scope, I would install it and drive it like you have a spare. Put the funds into the original and take your time. Build it the way you want. Good luck.

[Newsguy]

Totally with Dllrd23--run it!

[elgyqc]

Here is the IMSB with the outer seal removed, closer inspection has not turned up any anomalies so it is staying put.



I inspected the cylinders with my borescope and all looks good.
The spark plug tubes are not leaking... so I assume the orings have been changed at some point.
Checked the accessories and pulleys at the front of the engine and all turn easily with no looseness. I think I will leave the alternator, power steering pump and starter that came on the engine rather than transferring over those that are on the engine that is in the car.

I have pretty well decided to install the engine as is and run it this summer while working on the original engine.

I have ordered a new AOS, pilot bearing for the flywheel and a clutch throwout bearing as well as a new engine mount and various gaskets and fasteners.

Here is the engine mount that came with the engine... the mount currently in the car is also shot.

[NewArt]

Duck tape'll fix that mount in no time! :dance:

[elgyqc]

The engine is ready to go into the car... I have to wait till the snow melts and I can move my 928 out and put the Boxster in the garage. Some additional things that I have done.
- removed the alternator - it seems to be a bit noisy when I spin it by hand, I was thinking of changing the bearing(s) but decided to wait till the other engine is out of the car and I will install the best one of the two.
- greased the starter.
- cleaned up the coils and put JB weld on the small cracks. Newart gave me a box of used coils and I chose the nicest ones from the engine and those he contributed.
- had to safety wire one coil connection given that the wiring harness connector clip was broken. I will try and get a new connector sometime.



- installed a new AOS
- reinstalled the water pump with a new gasket. The pump has a plastic impeller and looks like new. But it looks like there has been a water pump with a metal impeller in this engine's past - there is a wear spot in the cavity...



- installed my rebuilt engine mount with my homemade rubber stops...
(DIY Engine Mount Stop - 9A137525701 ?)
- checked the wiring harness for damaged wires.
- cleaned up the clutch and flywheel and installed a new pilot bearing.
- drilled out 3 broken exhaust header bolts and installed helicoils (the bolts were broken when I received the engine).

I am slightly intimidated by the engine switch, but Newart has offered to help and he has already BTDT. The other problem is when spring arrives I plan to drive the car a bit before putting it in the garage... and I may have a problem convincing myself that I can live without it for a couple of weeks... well that will be an incentive to get the 928 running properly...

[elgyqc]

When I replaced the AOS the hose between the top of the AOS and the intake manifold was so stiff I could not reattach it. What I ended up doing was to cut the tubing from the 2 end connectors (including removing the ends of the tubing where they are fitted over the connectors)...



... and joining the the original tube to the connectors with pieces of 3/4" silicon heater hose.



I will have to wait to see if the fit is snug enough without a sealant.
This should also work for repairing the long hose from the AOS to the front left of the engine.
UPDATE - after a couple of hours of driving there is no indication of the tube leaking. I will continue to check it

[NewArt]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

When I replaced the AOS the hose between the top of the AOS and the intake manifold was so stiff I could not reattach it. What I ended up doing was to cut the tubing from the 2 end connectors (including removing the ends of the tubing where they are fitted over the connectors)...



... and joining the the original tube to the connectors with pieces of 3/4" silicon heater hose.



I will have to wait to see if the fit is snug enough without a sealant.
This should also work for repairing the long hose from the AOS to the front left of the engine.

Why did you keep the accordion hose part and not just use silicone hose for the whole thing?

[maytag]

Originally Posted by NewArt

Why did you keep the accordion hose part and not just use silicone hose for the whole thing?

Exactly.
That's what I did, and added a "loop" into it to collect liquid oil in it at the track. ;-)


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by NewArt

Why did you keep the accordion hose part and not just use silicone hose for the whole thing?

Because the hose crimps when bent that sharply. I tried a home-made coil to prevent the crimp, but it didn't work.



A big loop as suggested by maytag would work.

The Boxster is now in the garage and the engine transplant work has started, yesterday I got the exhaust off. I am shopping for new stainless steel replacement bolts, I broke seven and I haven't got to the manifolds yet.

[elgyqc]

I was not looking forward to removing the exhaust manifold bolts (given that the new engine came with 3 broken) and had planned to take the manifolds off once the engine was on the stand. Yesterday I realised that the manifolds had to come off because of the way I plan to remove the engine, so I crawled under with my breaker bar and visions of helicoils dancing in my head... but all 12 bolts came out without drama! Small victories.

[elgyqc]

The engine switch is advancing, started on June 12 and I got the original engine out a week later (with the help of Newart and my friend Tony).

We had problems getting the engine/transmission out from under the car, the car was about 4 inches too low sitting on my Quickjack 3500s. I have since added a 2 inch rubber block under the rear jack point and it looks to be just the right height now. I will try to do a thread on my setup if it works out.

The original on the right and the replacement on the left.


I have installed stainless steel studs in place of the exhaust manifold bolts. Brass nuts will be used.


While the engine is out the half-shaft boots will get changed, they are hard with developing surface cracks. I had to buy a new 3 arm puller to get the left shaft out after breaking my 2 arm puller.

Today I hope to install the clutch (that came with the replacement engine) and then the transmission and it will be ready for the engine to go in.

[elgyqc]

Since the last post the new engine has been installed with the help of my friend Tony. I will install the minimum till I can start the engine since I can't be sure it will run, despite the claims of the ebay seller, so no exhaust and most of the suspension structure will be left off in case the engine has to come out again. The power steering reservoir is very tight to install or remove with the engine in place and I was waiting for replacement O-rings when the engine went in. I found that by backing off the 4 engine mount bolts I get about a quarter of an inch of clearance which allowed the reservoir to slip in easily. The intake plumbing was also stubborn, I presume because the plastic is old and less flexible than it used to be. I finally got it on after using the a heat gun on the throttle body end. Something that is was very useful during my first engine removal/install was having a spare engine on which I could verify how parts come off or go on, especially those that are more or less visible with the engine installed.

[elgyqc]

Yesterday I got to the point where I could try a test start. I cranked it for awhile to build up the oil pressure (didn't have to do anything special since the fuel lines were empty and it would take awhile for the fuel to get to the engine). I tried some starter fluid and it started and ran briefly. I figured that it should have run enough to be getting fuel but it would not start without the starter fluid. I did a search on the forum (key word "starter fluid") which got me to a thread where it was suggested that the CPS (or as Porsche calls it the Crankshaft Reference Mark Sensor) might be the problem. I replaced the CPS with the one from my original engine and it started right up!

The problematic CPS has this chaffing which seems to have broken a wire:



Here is the second start up, since I didn't record the first one.

https://youtu.be/4oqefHMHm5c

It's a lot louder in real life... my neighbour was wondering what I was up to. I turned the engine off, it didn't stall. It seems that the car has to be driven to allow the engine control system to set itself up properly, so till then some rough running is to be expected

[ike84]

Let the car idle for 1-2 minutes before driving, the ecu does a lot of adaptation during that first brief period. It will smooth out the idle and then the ecu can use it's maps from there.

Congrats on the success!

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

[elgyqc]

This morning I finally got to shake-down the engine. I had to wait over 2 weeks for wheel bearings before I could finally set the car down on its wheels.
The engine seems to run well, a bit of smoking on the initial starts but that seems to be gone. The temperature stayed in the normal range, the recycled clutch is fine and it starts and idles well. I am running it with the front and top engine covers off (so I can check the power steering reservoir and easily check the engine), the top up (don't want to fold it down directly over the engine) and the heater on full blast (to help get the coolant circulating) so it is rather hot and noisy.
I put the Durametric on it and the cam deviations are quite respectable, -5.63 and -5.53, better than the original engine.
So far it looks like my gamble on buying this engine is paying off.

[NewArt]

:dance: Yay!

[Stl-986]

Those deviations are right on the edge of spec. Spec is +/- 6 Still good, but really, really close. Didn't happen to change the cam actuator pads while you had it out did you?

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

Those deviations are right on the edge of spec. Spec is +/- 6 Still good, but really, really close. Didn't happen to change the cam actuator pads while you had it out did you?

No, I thought about it but decided to install the engine as I received it, after some verifications.The plan is to do the pads on the original engine and put it back in the car, then I will go through this one.

[Stl-986]

Makes sense. Just wanted to throw it out there.