DIY Engine Mount Stop - 9A137525701 ?

[elgyqc]

I am rebuilding the engine mount that came on the spare engine for my 2000 base that I recently received. The new cylindrical mount is here, I have yet to have it pressed into the carrier. There are supposed to be "Engine Mount Stops" (part number 9A137525701) on either side of the mount... this engine didn't have them. The stops are $30 and you need two of them. $60 US (that's about $90 where I live) is a bit much for 2 pieces of 8mm thick rubber.
Sooo... I started looking around for a piece of rubber tough enough to take the lateral forces that come from the mount and found... an old tire.
My first prototype from the tire's sidewall.

and the factory part

Yes the prototype is upside down, but also because it was taken from a tire sidewall the rubber is too thin on one side and too thick on the other.
My next attempt will be cut from the tread area which as a larger area of uniform thickness and if I can cut off the tread blocks (unfortunately I don't have a bald tire) it should be about 8mm.
Any input is appreciated...

[edc]

What about a tyre with a higher sidewall profile? Could you not also use the thin bits of the sidewall from the tyre you have ad flip one piece over so you end up with a flat section over 2 pieces.

[Quadcammer]

I used some dress shoe heel pads I had lying around. worked fine.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by edc

What about a tyre with a higher sidewall profile? Could you not also use the thin bits of the sidewall from the tyre you have ad flip one piece over so you end up with a flat section over 2 pieces.

I'm working with the tire I had laying around... if you have a choice of tires your idea might work. Doubling the layers would make it flat, but too thick.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

I used some dress shoe heel pads I had lying around. worked fine.

Good idea, but I don't have dress shoes let alone extra pads

Here is prototype #2 (which is actually finished product #1) cut from the tread. I cut the block out with my sawzall clone and the hole in the middle with my dremel clone.
Cutting through the steel plies with the dremel was a challenge, but it turned out OK.



I cut grooves in the tread blocks on the underside to seat the circumference of the mount so that the stop is close to flush with the outer ends of the aluminum insert. Also wrapped some electrical tape around it to cover the ends of the steel plies that are sticking out waiting to puncture any skin that gets too close.

[ike84]

This is a great idea!! I am interested to know how it turns out. The factory stops are actual quite soft on the yellow side. This wears away completely over time, which leads to a lot of confusion when you pull out the mount and try to figure out why the thing is there to start with lol.

[elgyqc]

I finally got my new mount pressed into the engine carrier and found that to install the stops I had to grind the tread blocks off the the ends that insert into the chassis carrier.






So it's ready to go... I think these stops will last a long time.

[NewArt]

I'm impressed Grant! Did you get that flux-capacitor controller fixed?

[elgyqc]

An update... there is a bit of vibration when accelerating through 3000 RPM which may be due to my stops being too thick and/or too rigid. I can't be sure that the vibration is from these stops and it is a minor problem. Next time I will make them a bit thinner.

[edc]

Just do a couple of burn outs to wear the tread down 😂

[Robert986]

You´re not the only one questioning the cost for those two rubber parts.. At the end of the day I just didn´t wanna risk having to re-do it, so went with the oem.