Porsche Headlight Retrofit [from CAD, prototyping to finish)

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by TAKART

no problemo i can do this. you can not see the picture and detail because francois post is reserve to vip member

thank you for doing a good job for my friend. you give a free kit to the wrong guy you need to give it to me haha. someone on my forum write you sell the kit include every thing hid ballast and light for 325 us dollars is this real? the price you give me is 355 why more for me?

Yes, the price is right Takart. The additional $30 is for Int'l shipping (priority air mail w/ tracking number). ETA to you is around 7-10 days.

That includes everything you'll ever need for your bi-xenon conversion (CANBUS 35w ballasts, bulbs, projectors, shrouds, spacer & hardware kit, sanding dremel wheels/shaft). The only thing you'll need additional is 500ml of RTV silicon sealant (in black)... a very common material available in any car shop or on eBay. I can't ship liquid silicon Int'l by Air Mail I believe.

Other details by PM. Let me know when you are ready to roll...

[Nine8Six]

Porsche 986 & 996 Headlights - Bi-xenon HID conversion

The process of converting one headlight involves:

1. Opening the headlight
2. Paint application preparations and painting
3. Installing/wiring the projector, bulb and ballast
4. Testing (electronics) On-vehicle pre-adjustments (leveling the projectors)
5. Lens and headlight parts cleaning, and sealing the headlight

Opening the headlight

There are various DIY written on the subject of opening a headlight unit. However, and to be on the safe side, I do recommend using the oven solution instead of a heat gun. Both options are equally effective however special skills are required when using the latest. Hotspots can easily be made with a heat gun therefore being consistent and distributing the heat well around the headlight is paramount. In my opinion, the best DIY "on the Internet" was written by member BLK986 and can be found here: DIY HID Projector Install instructions

IMPORTANT NOTES: Cross reference to post below for "Opening Headlight and Installation".

HELP Opening Headlights

Patience is key; if the headlight's lens doesn't come off easy, STOP, and place it back in the oven for another heating session. Do NOT apply excessive force to pry off the lens. It does come off with medium to little efforts when properly heated. My personal experience; 10min@225F - I found out that it never works out on the first attempt. In my case one headlight opened after 2 (two) heating sessions and the other one opened after 3 (three) heating sessions. My first reaction when one came off was "that was way too easy". So do take your time and nothing will go wrong. IMPORTANT: When removed, NEVER touch the inner side of your lens with your fingers (e.g. greasy). It will be very hard to remove without the use of soaps or chemicals and you don't want that. Wear rubber gloves to prevent mistakes. Once the lens is removed, keep it clean by storing it inside a NEW plastic bag.

Paint application preparations and painting

Shall you decide to paint the interior of your headlight then black is the way to go. Matte black is by far the best finish selection however beware, matte is non-reflective and therefore 'could' generate very high heat when in direct sunlight. If your vehicle if often placed in direct sunlight, I'd recommend using satin black finish which also offers an equally modern sporty looking finish. Do NOT paint your headlight in gloss black, why? because nobody did that before! At last, the headlight unit can, and will, become hot therefore only use quality Heat Resistant Paints from a reputable manufacturer (VHT, OMP, to name a few).

Preps are simple. Wet sand the internal polycarbonate lining and the reflector with a #600 abrasive paper. This will ensure that the paint will adhere properly to the surfaces and that no (potential) chemical reaction between the reflector's chrome finish and your paint will occurred. At last, clean the parts to be painted with a degreaser before applying the paint (if you aren't wearing rubber gloves in the process). Note that these preparations should be sufficient for a long lasting surface however the proper way would be to use a professional primer as based coat prior painting.

Installing/wiring the projector, bulb and ballast

Diagrams are provided with the kit in PDF format (sent by email). Those diagrams applies to both the Porsche 986 and Porsche 996 halogen headlight models. Those are:

1. How to mount projector onto the reflector (including socket enlargement, methods and other basic preps).
2. How to secure the bulb into the projector (spacer & spring mounting system).
3. Wiring of the CANBUS ballast and projector's solenoid onto the headlight's low & high beam connectors.

The installation is all very straight forward. I believe there is sufficient material and visuals in this thread alone to give one a good idea how these mounts to the reflector. Regardless of this, I will try my best to make the installation as easy as possible with diagrams and additional visuals.

Testing (electronics) and Projector's level adjustments

Before sealing the headlight, it is recommended to test all features of the headlight on a workbench. Those can be tested using a 12v DC source with a minimum current capacity of 10amps (e.g car battery, motorcycle battery, or rectifier will do). You need to ensure that 1. your ballasts are lighting up the bulbs and that your solenoid is activated effectively. Both can be tested by connecting the respective +/- wires onto 12 volts. Once everything has been successfully tested and operational, you can move on to leveling the projectors.

Leveling the projector requires 1. your new bi-xenon projector to be installed and 2. the hid bulb to be operational. What you need to ensure is that the cutoff line/beam is horizontal with the world. Two methods are available for this adjustment. The first one is to place the headlights in the vehicle and the other method is indoor while having the headlight leveled on a table and facing a wall.

Indoor method: with the lens and polycarbonate lining removed, you will see a flat surface on the bottom of the headlight housing. This is your vehicle's horizontal reference. With your headlight placed onto a table, level that flat bottom surface with the world using a mini-spirit level. Once leveled, secure the headlight unit onto your table using tape. If you do not have a mini-spirit level, and only have the standard (long) model, simply place a perfectly square object on the headlight's flat bottom surface and take the level reading from the top of that object.

Once your headlight is leveled and secured in place on a table, slightly loosen the projector's socket screw, power-up the ballast, keep your eyes on the wall, and turn the projector with one hand until you are satisfied with the horizontal level of the cutoff line. When satisfied, tighten the socket screw with a pair of long nose pliers - and all done. I've applied Locktite (medium strength) to the socket screw but I don't see this as 'mandatory'. Also, I personally prefer the indoor method. There are less chances that the projector moves when removing the headlight from the vehicle however both methods are equally effective.

Lens and headlight parts cleaning, and sealing the headlight

Lens cleaning: You've never touched the lens with your fingers however when removing the old silicon sealant, some particles and other dust may have found their way onto the inner side of the lens. To clean it, simply blow compressed air on it or use a clean microfiber cloth and HOT distilled water ONLY. Do not use tap water as this will leave mineral residues on the lens. You'll want the water to evaporate quickly so do this in a warm and clean environment (heated bathroom for instance!). Once done, place the lens back inside a (surgically-cleaned) plastic bag until it is ready to be installed onto the headlight. I've used a plain and cheap black garbage bag (they are folded air-tight style by the manufacturer).

The next step is to remove the remaining old silicon from the headlight housing. I've used a flat head screw driver to get rid of most of it and finished the job with a stainless steel brush (get one that is the same size as a toothbrush). Next is to remove dust and particles from the headlight's housing, reflector and from the polycarbonate lining/insert. Assuming the paint had time to cure (2-3 days), use the same microfiber and distilled water to clean the headlight housing, insert, reflector and cablings (everything!). Use a long & slim plastic object to gently push the microfiber under the reflector and on its sides to get rid of any dust hiding there while being careful not to scratch the new paint job. When satisfied, again, hop everything in clean plastic bags to keep dust away until you are ready to seal all this back together.

Sealing back the headlight is the easiest job of all. Fill the sealant compartment around the headlight housing to half-full with RTV silicon, and install the lens. Very simple. Check with your RTV silicon manufacturer RE curing time. 48 hrs at room temp should be more than sufficient.

Hardware Specifications
(to be continued soon)

[Draft: those are ongoing notes - I will update these regularly and publish installation diagrams when completed]

[Nine8Six]

We drove all the way down to Shanghai, China, to disturb the downtown Saturday's night-life. Took the girls for hotpot and karaoke for a few hours. A detour by the industrial park to street race a few miles is always mandatory when we go out. All good fun (I'm 38 years old by the way, embarrassing I know!).

Can't be seen in the in the picture (+1 996 and +1Cayman) later we were five Pcars roaring & launching traffic lights downtown @ 02am, in front of the coppers and all...... free pass, broken police smiles, thanks to PORSCHE for that!

Of course the pcar with the sickest headlights and meanest looking frontend was mine (I was told by the boyz).

[MitchSF]

Nice! I never understood the driving mentality there, after many trips to China. I think it's a completely different skill set including luck and guts. How they navigate major intersections with no traffic lights is something that must be experienced to be believed.

Did you buy the car in Canada? When you return, will you bring it back?

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by MitchSF

luck and guts.

You clearly did come to China before I can tell. yes, this is accurate info and the way we drive here. Blind spot shoulder overlooking and putting indicators are also signs of weakness. First arrived first served! A Porsche car can come handy

Crazy to many, I was also shattered when I first arrived and drove in China, it turned up to be a very effective way of driving after all.

Originally Posted by MitchSF

Did you buy the car in Canada? When you return, will you bring it back?

Bought the car in Germany (ROW version). Not going back to Canada for the nest 4 years... and yes I expatriate my bikes and the cars.

[ohhh my]

Can we get some cut off line pictures?

[Nine8Six]

Great.... I just washed the Boxster this afternoon and covered it back in the garage until its next pcar go out day. Will make a "video" of the next drive out so you can see that halogen is now officially phased out, and that HID rules!

Cutoff line is pretty standard for all bi-xenon projectors mate. You want to Google Image: "Morimoto Mini H1 cutoff line" for examples.

Pattern is identical to the one on the pic below:


The only advantages of my 'custom' projector against the stock Morimoto Mini H1 is the lens on mine are placed dead centered with the projector's bowl and its beam of light (factory quality). I machine those parts with 0.05mm precision/tolerance. The original projector comes with a cheap plastic lens housing with (often) uneven tabs all around (see pic below), or bent, and that can shift the lens a bit too much on some units. I've measured a few units and couldn't find a pair that had the same focal/lens alignment. Some are okay, some we're off by as much as 1.5mm. This can make the focal and horizontal cutoff line adjustment a PITA or even impossible.


^hmmmmm .... no thanks!

The mounting spacers and the socket nut/threads I provide are also machined to same high precision believe it or not. It makes everything pretty easy to line-up for the end installer

[Nine8Six]

A member PM'ed me (actually, blasted me) regarding my above reply to member Ohh my. The cutoff line question was more toward 'quality' reason and my reply was perhaps less than acceptable (fair enough). He also reminded me that I didn't specifically needed the 986 to prove that the cutoff line of my custom projector is standing up as much as the design/concept.

Well there you go. I've assembled a kit fired it up using a rectifier so I can shoot a few pics. Please don't comment on my photography skills.... that is something I need practice a lot on :/

Note that all projectors that I make are tested in a same fashion way. The cutoff line (or FOCUS) is adjusted so that the projector can be shipped with a sharp and crisp 'factory" quality line. Having a quality cutoff line is also mandatory for beam alignments when on the car. Other aftermarket (or plastic made!) bi-xenon projectors can sometime be a pain due a low quality (uneven) cutoff line. Hence the reason it is important for some to ensure that this is taken care of (of course it was).

Out of context: with a bi-xenon HID projector, there is nothing better to see ahead of you when you drive on bumpy surfaces. The cutoff line moves up/down like a laser scanner. I love love love it. Hard to explain in words but it kinda remind you how precise the Porsche suspension system is. Fancy set-up! (screw halogen forever for me).

Other features worth mentioning, and important for all responsible Porsche car owner, is the selection of a HID ballast. I am using the latest in terms of technologies available commercially. It is made by the most reputable manufacturer here in China and was recommended to me by the local professionals in the HID trade. It is a full Digital 35w canbus ballast with arc stabilizer, very low heat, protection features and EMC (Electro-Magnetic Compatibility). Meaning you can run the 20,000+volts right over your mobile phone and it will still receive and make calls without a single buzzing or circuit damage. Not cheap but it's Magic and mandatory for a Porsche car imo. No more flicking and annoying loud "ticking" sound noise coming out of your speakers when turning ON the headlights! I am very satisfied with this also being sorted.

If you have any question I'll be happy to answer them. Apologies if the above reply wasn't conclusive to what it was meant to achieve.

I am normally very humble about things in life but these are simply the "Ultimate Bi-Xenon Porsche projectors" (Carrera GT style as bonus!). I do these along with many other motorcycle and car aftermarket parts as a "hobby" and only would want to share the successes with other 986 owners like myself. It's not for profits believe me as running heavy CNC equipment for hours, carbide cutters, materials, imported dyes, using the best chemicals and paints, CO2 laser tubes, electricity, coolants, etc etc.... it all adds up very quickly. Profits are justified however very insignificant - it's just for fun really Be cool!


^ Here we go. My testing set-up. Yes it's a "3.6". I'll swap the burnt LED display in a few years maybe. This rectifier is getting olddd but still very good.


^ Here goes the cutoff line nice and crisp. Includes everything (arc and cutoff). Good enough for me and my Porsche car, it should be good enough for anyone (I am a picky PITA).


^ Another view from. Flat wall (3 meter far).


^ Try this with a substandard ballast and let me know if your phone still works after sparking them ON and OFF

[Nine8Six]

Temp of the ballast after a good 30 min of continuous operation. Very low heat generated - that alone is an excellent proof of quality.

Unlike previous hid ballast versions that used to run up to almost 90ºC (200ºF), or like Litronics(!), those can be hidden in the headlight's back compartment. Makes a perfect and clean headlight unit.

[Nine8Six]

Here goes a few shots of the complete set. Plenty of good fun and without being shy saying that those are the best looking Porsche headlights on the Internet ATM




^ The bezel/shroud face is fully customizable to your taste. Typeface can be changed and wording as well. Choice of paint or anodizing reflections styles available.


^ Shall you decide to go creative-crazy and want to dremel everything, plenty of abrasive wheels there. Also, I got a few emblems (badge) left so you are also helping me getting rid of those by getting a kit.

[BruceH]

Very nice work, impressive in fact! Thank you for the update, I found some clear halogens so now I have to decide if I am up to the task of installing these. After reading your detailed instructions, it doesn't seem too bad.

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by BruceH

Very nice work, impressive in fact! Thank you for the update, I found some clear halogens so now I have to decide if I am up to the task of installing these. After reading your detailed instructions, it doesn't seem too bad.

Thanks Bruce, compliment well received

Have a look at what member Blk986 has written RE opening the headlights. He make it look/sound harder than it really is but regardless, by far The best DYI on the subject anywhere atm. And unlike mine, this one is written in English!!!

DIY HID Projector Install instructions

All accurate info. Less the wiring set-up. No need for a load-lot-everywhere like Blk986.... (old method) the new ballasts today can simply be connected to the old H7 halogen connector. Just two little wires +/- (black & red). Can't go wrong there

Everything ballast related hides inside the back of the headlight unit. See nothing else but a BOSCH headlight. Clean & easy

[BruceH]

Thanks. My other decision is what color for the ring, but I will probably stick with the silver and keep the reflector stock. My car is Lapis Blue and I am sure the black would look great, but I think stock also looks great. I even kicked around the idea of a blue ring to match the Lapis, but long term, I think stock may be the way to go. Just thinking out loud. Any thoughts?

[Nine8Six]

Dunno mate. bear in mind it will never be 100% black during day time anyway, more like 50% gray with the sunlight reflections bouncing on/off the lens and all. That what's mine turned up to be if you look carefully. Just perfect design-wise. Night-time tho.... this is where this thing turns into a beast of its own

Day time you are looking at getting something like below. A brand New 2014 Boxster!



If you asked me, I'd say go for satin-black headlight interiors. With the outer silver trim left alone it will look perfectly balanced (your car color is already dark). The ring in silver - elegance first in your case.

If you had e.g. spoiler, side skirts, the futurist Gt3 front bumper, kinda style, then maybe I'd say go for the eccentric blue bezel.

Hope this helps a bit. Ask around what your friends and family think.... they know you better than I do!

[BruceH]

That picture helps a lot, thanks.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by Nine8Six

^ Try this with a substandard ballast and let me know if your phone still works after sparking them ON and OFF

I am liking your phone!!

Steve

[TeamOxford]

Originally Posted by Nine8Six

Day time you are looking at getting something like below. A brand New 2014 Boxster!

Why upgrade a 986 to a modernistic 2014 Boxster look?

There's something timeless and endearing about the design and patina of an older Boxster.

Just sayin'..................

TO

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by TeamOxford

Why upgrade a 986 to a modernistic 2014 Boxster look?

There's something timeless and endearing about the design and patina of an older Boxster.

Just sayin'..................

TO

Didn't meant to offend anyone or anyone's Boxster. I agree with you that old style headlights, battle scars, yellow'ed/burnt reflectors and all, can certainly add some character to any car.

RE the 2014 Boxster comment. As you can see from my whole thread... I am just having fun mate. Didn't really meant/believe that. I do however make it obvious that I'm all up for serious aesthetic improvements whatever it takes

[Eric G]

One of the best threads and cleanest "upgrade" mod threads I have seen. I truly appreciate the work you are putting into this and will be looking forward to the finished install notes when done.

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by Eric G

One of the best threads and cleanest "upgrade" mod threads I have seen. I truly appreciate the work you are putting into this and will be looking forward to the finished install notes when done.

Nice one Eric, too kind mate

I'll get those Install Docs out very soon.... still struggling to get them translated from Frenchglish into proper English :/ Wish MS Word had this built-in feature!

Keep up those nice bikes of yours happy. Can't recall exactly where I've seen a picture of your collection (it was here somewhere) but I do remember however that it was pretty damn cool. Pass the link when you have a minute please