Seal removal on Dual Row IMSB

[Boxstard]

Looks like your original bearing is still in great shape.

So the new bearing you got feels not that tight and rolls???

[Troutman]

New LN Retrofit is very similar although it has been in the freezer all day ready for fitting tomorrow, so the grease will be firmer, but I don't remember it spinning easily before it went in.

[Troutman]

Today I fitted the new IMS Bearing ...yes it's done, it's in there.
I had to use a block of nylon so I could use a metal mallet to tap it in. My rubber mallet just wasn't heavy enough. That's me hitting the fitting tool , not the bearing.



Then you fit the Spiro-Loc ..had to get in touch with LN as I've never seen one of these before let alone fit one. Wanted to get it right.



Apparently I was the first person in 10 years to ask how to insert a Spiro-Loc.

Then i put a small smear of silicone grease on the gasket and carefully pulled on the new flange using the 3 old bolts. Waiting for Loctite to finish that.



Also my RMS tool arrived today, I had my machine man make it out of nylon. It's brilliant and made fitting the RMS so easy.




Btw, I removed the outer seal from my old bearing and it's perfect inside, no play or noise or anything, it's like a brand new bearing would be.



I would say dual row failures are most likely from poor alignment , in fact I bet the single is too but it fails quicker.
Why did I change it? Because I was there and I was spending a load of money anyway and it can be forgotten about for a while..if I was strapped for cash, after I saw it and felt it, I would have tried to replace the O ring and left it alone.
Clutch and DMF to go in next.

[dlud]

I love that nylon RMS tool. I made one out of pvc parts and wasn't all that thrilled with how it came out.

[Troutman]

Yeah it's superb, t just takes all the guess work out of it.
Measuring 13mm inside he crank etc is just about impossible. This does it for you.

[Troutman]

One thing that I found quite strange about the IMSB is the centre stud.
I'm sure you have all figured this out many years ago and it's weakness has been mentioned on this thread already but I find it hard to believe that that stud (M8) is all that is supporting the rear end of the IMS which is driving the cams.
Well I know the bearing is but that is being supported by that stud/bush and the flange is fixing the stud to the engine ( which is very secure).
I suppose by increasing the diameter of the stud you have to decrease the thickness of the flange internal busing part as there is only the same amount of space inside the bearing.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Troutman

One thing that I found quite strange about the IMSB is the centre stud.
I'm sure you have all figured this out many years ago and it's weakness has been mentioned on this thread already but I find it hard to believe that that stud (M8) is all that is supporting the rear end of the IMS which is driving the cams.
Well I know the bearing is but that is being supported by that stud/bush and the flange is fixing the stud to the engine ( which is very secure).
I suppose by increasing the diameter of the stud you have to decrease the thickness of the flange internal busing part as there is only the same amount of space inside the bearing.

There are three major flaws in the factory center bolt:

1. There is a rather severe under cut in it to accommodate an O-ring seal; when they break, they tend to break at this undercut.
2.The material of construction, it is mild steel.
3.It needed to be larger in diameter.