Gold Flakes in Oil and Age of Motor?

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by piper6909

Thanks, bud! At least you seem to get the most fun out of yours.

I don't know about the history of mine, but we've only had it on the track once last year. I signed up my wife for DE.

I think you have worn thru the lead layer of some rod bearings & starting on the copper layer, that's the last layer of defense for the connecting rods. Once the rod is worn oversize it will start knocking & they are not rebuildible but they will ruin the crankshaft.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

I think you have worn thru the lead layer of some rod bearings & starting on the copper layer, that's the last layer of defense for the connecting rods. Once the rod is worn oversize it will start knocking & they are not rebuildible but they will ruin the crankshaft.

Thank you, I think you may be right. I had a hunch it was the copper alloy from the bearings. But I wasn't sure if these bearings were made of a copper alloy or not. When I can get a replacement motor for less than $4k, it's probably not worth doing anything about it now, right?

Like I said earlier, I'm probably going to drive it for another one or two k miles and check it again.

[flmont]

Hopefully you have some oil available to ship to Blackstone labs,..they may have some insight on the metals in your engine,.I hope its Minor wear and tear.!

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by flmont

Hopefully you have some oil available to ship to Blackstone labs,..they may have some insight on the metals in your engine,.I hope its Minor wear and tear.!

Thanks, flmont. Unfortunately, I've already dropped it off at to the recycler.

I'll drive it for a few thousand miles and see what it looks like then.

[flmont]

Yea..I hated to state a obvious next step,..I send my oil to those guys every3-4 K miles when I change it,,.I also usally use the filter canister oil..not sure if that's smart but that's where all the metals are I assume..!

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by flmont

Yea..I hated to state a obvious next step,..I send my oil to those guys every3-4 K miles when I change it,,.I also usally use the filter canister oil..not sure if that's smart but that's where all the metals are I assume..!

I don't see why it would be any different than the rest of the oil. How much do you have to send in and how much does it cost?

[maytag]

Originally Posted by piper6909

I don't see why it would be any different than the rest of the oil. How much do you have to send in and how much does it cost?

It's like $30 or something, and it's an awesome tool. And sorta nerd- fun too.

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[flmont]

oh about 1/2 to 3/4's of a cup and around 30 -35 dollars they mail u a container fill the sample bottle and mail it back in about a week they E-M U a report,..of metals content anti-freeze percentages ,if you have water mixed in,..even as far as a sodium content,..my last 2 reports were of average wear and seem to be running just fine,they didn't find that many pollutants in the oil..worth the the 35.00 bucks I paid for the info..Call or EM them and they will send you a kit,..Frank

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by piper6909

Thank you, I think you may be right. I had a hunch it was the copper alloy from the bearings. But I wasn't sure if these bearings were made of a copper alloy or not. When I can get a replacement motor for less than $4k, it's probably not worth doing anything about it now, right?

Like I said earlier, I'm probably going to drive it for another one or two k miles and check it again.

If you pull it now before the rods & then Crankshaft are junk it will be some what economical to rebuild. Or you can go the route of replacing the engine every few years & never having one that's 100%.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

If you pull it now before the rods & then Crankshaft are junk it will be some what economical to rebuild. Or you can go the route of replacing the engine every few years & never having one that's 100%.

Roughly how much would a standard rebuild be? Just stock parts, nothing built up?

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by piper6909

Roughly how much would a standard rebuild be? Just stock parts, nothing built up?

You will need at least 2 good rods & most likely a whole set of rod bearings & ARP rod bolts. A gasket set is about $300, ARP rod bolts $160, bearings $125., Rods ?? You are looking around $1,000 minimum since you want to do whatever you can while you are in there. Plus labor!!

[maytag]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

You will need at least 2 good rods & most likely a whole set of rod bearings & ARP rod bolts. A gasket set is about $300, ARP rod bolts $160, bearings $125., Rods ?? You are looking around $1,000 minimum since you want to do whatever you can while you are in there. Plus labor!!

Rings?
Are these cylinders nikasil'd, Or should they be honed?


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[Gilles]

Originally Posted by maytag

Rings?
Are these cylinders nikasil'd, Or should they be honed?


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Maytag, I believe the cylinders are coated with Lokasil (sadly Not Nikasil) and the concern is that they may be 'oval' not round.

Ideally would be to get the LN Nickies but they would increase the cost of the rebuilt..
.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by maytag

Rings?
Are these cylinders nikasil'd, Or should they be honed?


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