04-02-2020, 03:31 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thstone
Yes, that was from one of my earlier engines.I am on Engine #5. Racing will find all of the weak spots.
I hope that your filter is nice and clean on the next check!
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Thanks, bud! At least you seem to get the most fun out of yours.
I don't know about the history of mine, but we've only had it on the track once last year. I signed up my wife for DE.
Last edited by piper6909; 04-02-2020 at 03:38 AM.
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04-02-2020, 08:03 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909
Thanks, bud! At least you seem to get the most fun out of yours.
I don't know about the history of mine, but we've only had it on the track once last year. I signed up my wife for DE.
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I think you have worn thru the lead layer of some rod bearings & starting on the copper layer, that's the last layer of defense for the connecting rods. Once the rod is worn oversize it will start knocking & they are not rebuildible but they will ruin the crankshaft.
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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04-02-2020, 09:27 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver
I think you have worn thru the lead layer of some rod bearings & starting on the copper layer, that's the last layer of defense for the connecting rods. Once the rod is worn oversize it will start knocking & they are not rebuildible but they will ruin the crankshaft.
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Thank you, I think you may be right. I had a hunch it was the copper alloy from the bearings. But I wasn't sure if these bearings were made of a copper alloy or not. When I can get a replacement motor for less than $4k, it's probably not worth doing anything about it now, right?
Like I said earlier, I'm probably going to drive it for another one or two k miles and check it again.
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04-02-2020, 04:59 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tucson,az
Posts: 762
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Hopefully you have some oil available to ship to Blackstone labs,..they may have some insight on the metals in your engine,.I hope its Minor wear and tear.!
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04-02-2020, 05:07 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flmont
Hopefully you have some oil available to ship to Blackstone labs,..they may have some insight on the metals in your engine,.I hope its Minor wear and tear.!
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Thanks, flmont. Unfortunately, I've already dropped it off at to the recycler.
I'll drive it for a few thousand miles and see what it looks like then.
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04-02-2020, 05:53 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tucson,az
Posts: 762
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Yea..I hated to state a obvious next step,..I send my oil to those guys every3-4 K miles when I change it,,.I also usally use the filter canister oil..not sure if that's smart but that's where all the metals are I assume..!
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04-02-2020, 05:58 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flmont
Yea..I hated to state a obvious next step,..I send my oil to those guys every3-4 K miles when I change it,,.I also usally use the filter canister oil..not sure if that's smart but that's where all the metals are I assume..! 
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I don't see why it would be any different than the rest of the oil. How much do you have to send in and how much does it cost?
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04-03-2020, 01:28 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909
Thank you, I think you may be right. I had a hunch it was the copper alloy from the bearings. But I wasn't sure if these bearings were made of a copper alloy or not. When I can get a replacement motor for less than $4k, it's probably not worth doing anything about it now, right?
Like I said earlier, I'm probably going to drive it for another one or two k miles and check it again.
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If you pull it now before the rods & then Crankshaft are junk it will be some what economical to rebuild. Or you can go the route of replacing the engine every few years & never having one that's 100%.
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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04-03-2020, 02:51 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver
If you pull it now before the rods & then Crankshaft are junk it will be some what economical to rebuild. Or you can go the route of replacing the engine every few years & never having one that's 100%.
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Roughly how much would a standard rebuild be? Just stock parts, nothing built up?
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04-04-2020, 10:26 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909
Roughly how much would a standard rebuild be? Just stock parts, nothing built up?
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You will need at least 2 good rods & most likely a whole set of rod bearings & ARP rod bolts. A gasket set is about $300, ARP rod bolts $160, bearings $125., Rods ?? You are looking around $1,000 minimum since you want to do whatever you can while you are in there. Plus labor!!
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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04-04-2020, 11:08 AM
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#11
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Who's askin'?
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver
You will need at least 2 good rods & most likely a whole set of rod bearings & ARP rod bolts. A gasket set is about $300, ARP rod bolts $160, bearings $125., Rods ?? You are looking around $1,000 minimum since you want to do whatever you can while you are in there. Plus labor!!
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Rings?
Are these cylinders nikasil'd, Or should they be honed?
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