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Old 02-23-2020, 03:43 AM   #101
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Very impressive work! Great thread!

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Old 02-25-2020, 10:34 PM   #102
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Very impressive work! Great thread!
Thanks!
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:06 PM   #103
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Little progress since last time. New timing chains ready for assembly.



Old vs. new chain tensioner.



Old vs new timing chain lined up. Not a super precise way to tell, but I can`t see any obvious sign of stretch.




I put a small amount of sealant onto the gasket lips for the plastic oil scraper (?) to hold it in place during assembly. They put sealant there in the factory as well.



I spent about a good two hours closely looking at the pictures I made during disassembly to find out which rod goes with which piston, which cylinder and in what orientation. I marked everything, but that was 1.5 years ago and of course I couldn`t figure out what I meant by my markings back then So I remarked everything and they are good to go.



Rod bolts, new vs old.



Rod bolts torqued to 20 Nm followed by an additional 90 degree turn. Hopefully that`s fine, as the respective line on the torque settings chart was a bit confusing.



IMS and chains joined again with the crankshaft. More tomorrow.

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Old 03-01-2020, 11:05 AM   #104
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Bearing carrier should be sitting in the engine case on two dowel pins. I managed to find the missing one in one of the boxes.




This thing here is quite heavy, so I assembled the engine hoist that`s been sitting in the corner for a while.




Lowered into the engine half.



Upside down.



I can`t locate the washer and circlip that locks the chain tensioner, I just put it out here so I remember not to put the cases together before I fix this, that would suck...



The crank assembly is bolted into the case using four of the head bolts.




These guys are coming next.

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Old 03-01-2020, 04:19 PM   #105
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I really love this thread. I really love when guys do this in their garage.... and all the people who say that Porsche motors are assembled with unicorn dust just go silent.

Good work! Keep the pic's coming. It's the best porn.

Oh, and while im thinking about it, when you get to that point: will you please settle once and for all the question about oil level in the sump in relation to the IMSB? (I am of the opinion that when the oil level is full, with the motor off, that the oil level is still below the bearing. I get this idea from looking at photos and diagrams. And from laying on my back staring up into the dark cavities of the motor when the sump is open.... trying to imagine 8 qts of oil volume.... but i'd like to see something empirical.)

Again: good work. Well done.

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Old 03-01-2020, 06:13 PM   #106
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I really love this thread. I really love when guys do this in their garage.... and all the people who say that Porsche motors are assembled with unicorn dust just go silent.

Good work! Keep the pic's coming. It's the best porn.

Oh, and while im thinking about it, when you get to that point: will you please settle once and for all the question about oil level in the sump in relation to the IMSB? (I am of the opinion that when the oil level is full, with the motor off, that the oil level is still below the bearing. I get this idea from looking at photos and diagrams. And from laying on my back staring up into the dark cavities of the motor when the sump is open.... trying to imagine 8 qts of oil volume.... but i'd like to see something empirical.)

Again: good work. Well done.
Thanks, I`m glad you enjoy the build, so do I, it`s just taking a bit too long now so I`m trying not to get stuck at every single detail for weeks.

Yeah, in general, this engine is not really different than any European or Japanese engine, and I don`t think it requires more knowledge or experience than a Subaru boxer or a motorcycle engine with similar complexity. If you overlook something or you are not careful, it will blow up, but that`s true for all the others, you need to use common sense. That`s part of the game, that`s what makes it exciting. It`s very annoying though that there`s no shop manual for the engine and I have to find out everything myself. Thankfully, there`s tons of information on this forum and rennlist, just you need to filter out what`s useful.

As for the oil level, if you go a few pages back in this thread, I`m showing that when the oil level is at MIN on the dipstick the IMS is submerged into oil about halfway. At MAX, IMS is nearly completely submerged in oil.
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Old 03-02-2020, 06:56 AM   #107
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Thanks for the update. I had to reread the whole story again. Awesome details and pictures. The head in the sink is my favorite so far, my wife doesn't like new car parts in the house.��
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Old 03-02-2020, 09:03 AM   #108
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Fantastic thread! Thanks for sharing this project with us
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Old 03-04-2020, 09:49 PM   #109
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Thanks for the interest and encouragement!

For pistons 1-2-3 I could have used some conventional tool as they go into the cylinders like on any average engine. But, since I already have the Porsche-specific toolset for pistons 4-5-6, I just used that.

Here`s what it looks like:





It was something like $80 on Amazon and probably it`s made in China

Everything prepared for the procedure:



Circlip inserted into the tool. Some builders use an extra tool to compress the ring so they can insert it into the tool, I just forced it in with my fingers.



It`s in. I didn`t make pictures of the failed attempts, there were many though. Then I realized I have to hit the slider in the tube quite strongly to smash the circlip into the groove.





Ring compressor. If you don`t want to buy it, you can rent one for free at Autozone.





For arranging the ring gaps, I took my SAAB shop manual off the shelf. Annoyingly, there`s no such manual for the Porsche available for a hobby mechanic like me. It`s not rocket science though, you just have to rotate the rings so that you minimize the blow by between the piston and cylinder wall.

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Old 03-25-2020, 09:53 PM   #110
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I inserted pistons 1-2-3 into the cylinders. It`s quite straightforward, just like on a conventional in-line engine.








Conrod bolts are now tightened down to 20Nm followed by a 90 degree turn as per direction from the 986 manual. Interestingly, the 987 manual`s direction differs, in spite of the very same bolts. It suggests that they should be torqued down to 20Nm plus 110 degrees, which then should be completely undone and retorqued to 20Nm and 110. Weird.. Since I still could do this easily, I`m thinking of retorquing the bolts based on the 987 directions. Not that it makes a big difference, but probably the engineers made this upgrade for a reason.




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Old 03-26-2020, 06:33 PM   #111
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Call me stupid, but how does one get the wrist pin in piston #5?
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:35 PM   #112
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Call me stupid, but how does one get the wrist pin in piston #5?
Ha!
I haven't done it, but one of my friends has described the process to me. I can't help, except to assure you it isn't something obviously simple.... you're in good company....
And im sorry. Haha.

I LOVE the thread!

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Old 03-26-2020, 06:41 PM   #113
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I've seen Subaru's done with the little hole, but there are 6 problems on this motor not just 4.


Air cooled jugs are easy.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:38 PM   #114
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I've seen Subaru's done with the little hole, but there are 6 problems on this motor not just 4.


Air cooled jugs are easy.
I`ve done some practicing on inserting the wristpin and the circlip just so I won`t have to split the engine halves after they are assembled. It`s quite straightforward, but you need some tools to do the trick.

This engine has only one hole to insert the wristpin and the circlips for all three pistons. It`s covered by this plug:




The manual suggests that this special tool that bolts on the side of the engine block should be used to fit the mandrel, but I could assemble everything without it.




The plastic mandrel is to be used to slide the wristpins in, one by one. The sequence is obviously piston6/wristpin/circlip - piston5/wristpin/circlip - piston4/wristpin/circlip.



After inserting the wristpin with your mandrel, you need the other tool that holds the circlip in its end which then can be pushed into the piston`s groove using the sliding hammer inside the tube.






Easy, isn`t it?

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Old 03-27-2020, 08:23 AM   #115
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Thanks for sharing. 46 years ago I was a supervised participant in the rebuild of my 948 cc Austin Healey Sprite engine and a few years later rebuilt my 3 liter Austin Healey 3000 engine with a lot of help. My own Boxster S engine was rebuilt by my shop last year, I couldn't imagine doing this. And you are doing it all at home with a new baby in the house, if I read that correctly a few pages ago. Congratulations on that and please keep posting!
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Old 03-27-2020, 03:31 PM   #116
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dude.... that sounds awful. LOL

You are essentially hitting the spot with a 16" stick. Your wife must love you. LOL
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:36 AM   #117
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dude.... that sounds awful. LOL

You are essentially hitting the spot with a 16" stick. Your wife must love you. LOL
Lol
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Old 03-30-2020, 09:05 AM   #118
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Thanks for sharing. 46 years ago I was a supervised participant in the rebuild of my 948 cc Austin Healey Sprite engine and a few years later rebuilt my 3 liter Austin Healey 3000 engine with a lot of help. My own Boxster S engine was rebuilt by my shop last year, I couldn't imagine doing this. And you are doing it all at home with a new baby in the house, if I read that correctly a few pages ago. Congratulations on that and please keep posting!
Rebuilding an Austin may have been a challenge back in the day, in the pre-internet days
Yes, you got that right, unfortunately the Boxster has only two seats, not ideal for a family, my wife is not concerned about it though, she says by the time it will be back on the road the baby will be able to drive it anyways

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