3.4L Motor Swap Underway!

[clickman]

Originally Posted by blue2000s

Have you ever tried bolt removal bits? You drill into the bolt and then use a bladed bit in the bolt that bites as you back it out. The added bite of the bit and torque of the drill can sometimes back out a headless bolt.

"Sometimes" being the key word. More often than not the removal bit has broken when I've tried.

[BudmanV24]

Whatever you do, don't snap a bolt remover off in one of those broken header bolts. Otherwise you'll be in a world of pain. Don't ask me how I know that. The corrosion looks very typical of auto parts from up north. I got a jeep transmission from new york once that was completely rotted through between the transmission and the transmission mount. A hand held wire brush rubbed right through the case. How much is evoms charging you to build an intake...could you PM me?

[insite]

@blue:

absolutely i've used EZ-Outs. they're great in some instances. unfortunately, i've had limited luck with them when the corrosion bond is this strong & the metal is so soft. the key to successful, painless extraction is a little recon & a lot of patience.

in my situation, i know i have two primary problems: a VERY strong corrosion bond and a VERY soft metal. if i choose to drill, i want to either leave the bolts as-is (soft!) or to anneal them further to simplify drilling. if, however, i feel confident i can break the corrosion bond & successfully apply torque, i want to HARDEN the bolts by heating & rapidly quenching. if i mis-plan, i may have to drill a hardened bolt. if i anneal & then try to use an easy-out, the metal may be too soft for a high-torque bite.....

analysis of THIS situation has shown me that i have to do both: eight of them will be hardened and the last two will be drilled out. first, i want to try to break the corrosion bond. heat will work, but the problem here is that the head is aluminum, which is a MASSIVE heatsink. it will be hard to get enough heat into the surrounding metal to really assist me, esp. considering my only torch at the house uses MAPP gas. the alternative is to cool the fastner with some dry ice. the rapid contraction is frequently enough to break or severely weaken the corrosion bond. it can even make some more 'room' for penetrating lubricant to get down in there.

once i've broken the corrosion bond, i will remove 8 of the fasteners by hardening the metal & twisting them out. i will do both at once: i will weld a nut to the protruding stud & quench the pair. after that, they should twist right out. the wire-feed welder will get the bolt MUCH hotter than my little MAP torch.

the remaining two are really already annealed & very soft. i will grind them flush with the head, center punch them, & drill w/ left-handed bits. it's possible an EZ-out will back them off. otherwise, i'll have to drill up to 7.5mm & then dig out the threads & chase with a tap. in the worst case, i'll drill oversize & helicoil.






@stroked:

never seen that before! makes a lot of sense, although i don't know if it will work as well as dry ice. i'd be willing to try it, but i can't seem to locate any that i don't have to special order......




@clickman & bud:

i have snapped of EZ-outs before. NOT GOOD! at that point, i'd just haul the block to a machine shop & let them deal with it. best to know when to cut your losses. the trick in that scenario is to vaporize the EZ-Out with a plasma cutter & then drill out the remainder. i have muppet fingers & would probably melt the head. that falls under the category of 'pay the guy'.




@pat:
anytime! i can't take credit for the REALLY good stuff; tholyoak has helped me tremendously with understanding the DME & various program parameters.....

[insite]

did a TINY bit more work last night; my starter showed up from ******************************** AZ. my old starter is fine, & i also have the one from the 996 motor, but after seeing how buried that thing really is beneath the intake manifolds, i decided to go ahead, spend the $$$, and do the preventative thing.

the Bosch re-man comes in this nifty little box:







if you look CAREFULLY, you will see that i get a bonus! free roadside assistance, 24 hours......per month? WTF?

[insite]

Originally Posted by BudmanV24

How much is evoms charging you to build an intake...could you PM me?

Bud -

Cloudsurfer talked me out of the Evoms setup. of course, Evoms didn't help themselves.....they wanted ME to basically do all the design work, asking for diameters, etc. I got the feeling very quickly that they don't actually design a complete solution, rather, they just slap some stuff together. at $450, they were only planning to give me the MAF housing, a cone filter & some sheet metal.

someone, either Jaay or Blue2000s, let me in on the fact that there's a BMW MAF housing identical to what i need. i'm coupling that with the BMC DIA airbox & some silicone tubing. i will detail the whole thing, along with photos & cost, as i fab it up.

[stephen wilson]

Sometimes a broken EZ-out can be removed by using a center punch. They're very brittle, so you can break them up, and pick out the pieces.

[chaudanova]

Originally Posted by insite

Bud -

Cloudsurfer talked me out of the Evoms setup. of course, Evoms didn't help themselves.....they wanted ME to basically do all the design work, asking for diameters, etc. I got the feeling very quickly that they don't actually design a complete solution, rather, they just slap some stuff together. at $450, they were only planning to give me the MAF housing, a cone filter & some sheet metal.

someone, either Jaay or Blue2000s, let me in on the fact that there's a BMW MAF housing identical to what i need. i'm coupling that with the BMC DIA airbox & some silicone tubing. i will detail the whole thing, along with photos & cost, as i fab it up.

Hey Insite, thanks again for taking the time to document your entire motor swap journey. I've been following along, and living vicariously through you with this swap!

What you said about the Evoms intake setup: I couldn't agree more... I feel like the Evoms and Agency power "intake" setups are exactly how you described, with a maf tube housing, cone filter, and some (poor) fitting sheet metal "heat shield" box. While I have an AP setup for the heat shield, etc, it fits so poorly and leaves so many gaps for hot air to enter. The Evoms box is pretty much the same... I'm looking to redesign this or go with something else soon.

Looking forward to your documentary for the BMC DIA airbox setup... That BMC unit has always interested me, but I never took the plunge in trying to get it set up to fit into the 986 properly.

[insite]

Originally Posted by chaudanova

Looking forward to your documentary for the BMC DIA airbox setup... That BMC unit has always interested me, but I never took the plunge in trying to get it set up to fit into the 986 properly.

the EVOMS guys didn't even want to supply the plumbing. mine will probably come in about the same price. cloudsurfer has been great through all of this; i feel pretty confident this will work quite well.

i plan on doing a mock-up this weekend while the motor is out of the car. i'll take pics of the setup during the process.

[manolo]

Im not saying it will solve your stud problem, but just for reference i keep a couple cans of freeze and release in the shop and im a firm believer. Ive seen it free up some very stubborn axle nuts on other vehicles that i absolutely could not get with an impact or big breaker bar and my fat ass standing on it. CRC has a version also, i think they call it Freeze Out.

[Cloudsurfer]

Looking good there my man! That REALLY sucks that you have all those stuck studs in your heads I think you're going to have to drill, but who knows, you might get lucky.

Be careful with the oil pump housing removed, as that supports the front of the IMS shaft, and the chain tensioner in place on the 4-6 bank as it's yanking the end of the shaft toward the head. You'll almost certainly have to remove the tensioner on that bank to get the oil pump housing back in.

As to intake stuff, I will never give any of those companies a dime of my money. I've installed plenty of those things on various cars, and I can assure you that their profit margin is fantastic for the crap engineered stuff they sell.

Removing the secondary air BS and running RoW software is one of the best things you can do on these cars I swear.

[insite]

@manolo:

that stuff sounds promising; it's a REALLY smart idea. anyone know if any of the major retailers carry these? i haven't been able to find them except by mail order.




@stephan smith: WTF?




@cloudsurfer:

you're right on the oil pump drive; that think is pulled WAY over to the right. i'd planned on putting the new drive in right away & reassembling. didn't realize my oil pump drive wasn't in the box........

that having been said, i am actually shocked by how ****************ty the whole design of the IMS is. i can't believe porsche spent so much time on it rather than spending time figuring out how to eliminate it.....

the last piece of my intake should arrive today (samco 135 elbow). i'll post mock-up pics this weekend.