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Old 09-23-2010, 02:45 PM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver
Porsche used blue paint to mark M96 cases with problems before remanufacturing.

good to know; thanks.


they apparently also used to used blobs of welded aluminum to mark them........
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:32 AM   #2
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a little more progress this weekend. i did the IMS retrofit, stripped down the old motor, removed the water pump, oil pump, etc. from the new motor, & did a few misc. other things.

MOST of it was smooth sailing. i have to admit, i was nervous during the IMS retrofit process. i locked the motor at TDC & removed the tensioners. since i had the engine on a stand, i had to rotate the engine a bit to get to the IMS. i was a little afraid that twisting the motor on its side would make it more prone to jump time, so i kept it as close to level as i could while the tensioners were out.

the old bearing was VERY easy to remove (double row). i just cranked down on the LN tool until there was a slight pop; continued to twist until it came out. the old bearing was in GREAT shape (the new one, even better!). i must say, charles' design is really good. the new bearing is a beast. after i removed the old bearing, things got a little trickier for me. first, the center piece got popped WAY back into the IMS; i had to fish it out with a magnet. frustrating! second, i couldn't find a piece of the old retainer ring! the piece circled in red seemed to disappear after i removed the old bearing:







i was afraid it somehow wound up inside the motor.......i cleaned up the shop a bit & found it, thank god, so all is well. installing the new bearing was a little tough for me. i wound up using the bearing driver tool & GENTLY tapping with a metal hammer; dead blow & plastic just weren't getting it done. the new retainer clip is a spiroloc; never used one before! seemed like a total pain until i figured it out; then it just went right in. from there, it was a snap. installed the flange & tensioners, rotated the motor a few times, & checked the cam indexes. all looks well!






i did rotate the motor up on its side later to gain better access to the exhaust manifold studs. MAN were they corroded! i hit them with penetrating lubricant & significant amounts of heat to no avail........two for twelve!!!! that's right, i have twelve studs stuck in my block:



the combination of annealing that comes naturally with the heating & cooling of exhaust bolts along with lots of corrosion & sitting on a shelf for years just wrecked the properties of the bolts. i tried hardening one to see if it would help. nada. since they're all so soft, i think my best bet is to anneal them all, grind them flat, & drill them out. there are about 3/8" of stud protruding from each hole, but the metal is so soft & the corrosion bond so strong, i think i'd just be wasting time trying to extract them this way. ugh. at least the motor is out of the car. maybe i will try a little dry ice before i start drilling.....

one oddity: after having the motor on its side for awhile, some engine oil came out of the spark plugh holes! the old plugs look great; not oil fouled or anything, but having the motor on its side certainly allowed some oil into the combustion chamber. it seemed like a lot more than would normally seep past the rings.....hopefully not an omen.





i had planned to button up the front of the motor, but i'm waiting on my chromoly oil pump drive from LN engineering; they left it out of my box. no worries; charles overnighted it today. here's the front of the block all cleaned up:








finally, i deleted the secondary air system. the RoW DME program i will be running does not use the secondary air injection system. accordingly, i will not be installing the ancillary check valves, solenoid & plumbing. porsche actually makes blocker plates for the openings:





this will save money & headache in the long run. i will be removing the pump from the car, as well.



total time this weekend: 6 hours. most of it was cleaning, removing gasket material, & trying to extract the exhaust bolts without snapping them off. FAIL.
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:29 AM   #3
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Thanks for taking the time to post about this. Good stuff.
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:08 AM   #4
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So with the secondary air system missing, you must not have smog checks where you live?
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:27 AM   #5
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there are definitely smog checks where i live. the car will actually pass emissions just fine without the secondary air system. it may fail in areas where they do a complete visual inspection. here, they only visually inspect the presence of the catalytic converters.

the RoW DME program removes the clutch / start safety switch, ignores the secondary air system, and ignores the post-cat O2 sensors. so, by doing this, i remove the secondary air headache, program out to O2 sensors, and get rid of the logic that won't allow the car to start without the clutch pressed.
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:48 PM   #6
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Have you ever tried bolt removal bits? You drill into the bolt and then use a bladed bit in the bolt that bites as you back it out. The added bite of the bit and torque of the drill can sometimes back out a headless bolt.
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:51 PM   #7
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This stuff may help your stuck bolts: http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/

Never thought about this before (the direction of the headers tipped me off), but the accessory drive in the boxster motors is on the 'front' of the block and in the 'back' on the 996. Makes sense given the access.
Is the boxster engine installed 'backwards' vs. the 996?
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Last edited by Stroked & Blown; 09-27-2010 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stroked & Blown
.
Is the boxster engine installed 'backwards' vs. the 996?
Yes, the flywheel side of the engine faces the front of the 911 and the rear of the 986, note the location of the transmission.
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue2000s
Have you ever tried bolt removal bits? You drill into the bolt and then use a bladed bit in the bolt that bites as you back it out. The added bite of the bit and torque of the drill can sometimes back out a headless bolt.
"Sometimes" being the key word. More often than not the removal bit has broken when I've tried.
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:37 PM   #10
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Whatever you do, don't snap a bolt remover off in one of those broken header bolts. Otherwise you'll be in a world of pain. Don't ask me how I know that. The corrosion looks very typical of auto parts from up north. I got a jeep transmission from new york once that was completely rotted through between the transmission and the transmission mount. A hand held wire brush rubbed right through the case. How much is evoms charging you to build an intake...could you PM me?
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