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Old 02-18-2015, 03:42 PM   #1
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Flaps
Well done, & thanks for sharing.
I am just a few steps ahead of you in the process.I make far too many mistakes to share with everyone.It would be humiliating ;-).

A few hints for others.
1."Jugs" - Wiseco and others sell these(Jegs/Summit etc) 93mm. Use lots of oil.

2. I splurged on ARP bolts for the bearing carrier,rods and head. The OEM bolts were about the same price and imho inadequate. I am very impressed with ARP's material science/engineering. Their Marketing is questionable. I had to buy items intended for a 996 -they weren't sure if it would fit a 3.2l Boxster ! Now they know -from me!
The expert I found is:
Alex Crostic - Specialty Products Coordinator
Automotive Racing Products, Inc. (ARP)
Web: ARP | The Official Web Site
When you compare Porsche fasteners with ARP it is like a comparison between hardware store general purpose made-in-china. Sad but true.

3. John Edwards - Costa Mesa R&D Brilliant guy . I use him. He is a wonderful curmudgeon. Doesn't suffer fools. So don't expect Engineering/Machining 101 from him over the phone.He literally wrote the book on engine machining for Sunnen. You will be talking to a god.
Sunnen's Complete Cylinder Head and Engine Rebuilding Handbook: John G. Edwards: Amazon.com: Books
He has lots of relevant videos on Porsche, Subaru, Fiat. If you want to impress him - talk to him about Zastava gearboxes for the 128. Pure porn for him! And sadly for me too .

hope this helps/amuses.Happy Boxster repairing.

Last edited by Gelbster; 11-05-2015 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 02-18-2015, 04:09 PM   #2
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"I'm going to be a guinea pig for the EPS roller bearing." + DOF
Woops you do not have the 'real' DOF - if by that you mean a direct feed from the cam cover port. Big difference compared to the oil-pump drive-shaft hack ,er modification.
Flaps you are performing a great service to the M96 community.Thank you. I applaud your potential sacrifice of an expensively repaired M96 - just to prove the futility (I sincerely hope I am wrong!) of defying the IMSB gods and gurus.

We have had a few inconclusive debates about roller vs. ball bearing. I prefer field experiments - particularly with someone elses engine-yours !

My pure and unsubstantiated WAG is that the oil feed to the bearing will 'save' the roller bearing .That is a gratuitous & uninteresting assertion. The significant part is WHY? In theory( unsubstantiated theory!) ,the new oil supply will cool the bearing sufficiently and you will use oil with enough thermal shear resistance(& change frequently) to offset the clumsy inherent characteristics of the roller bearing. You will drive it gently enough to never snap the oil pump drive and you will never 'tax' the engine.
After a few thousand miles, you will declare a triumph for the roller bearing IMSB and have many devoted followers. You may even get an email congratulation from Feelyx(they guy who championed the roller bearing idea long ago and on a different Forum).
Now if you used a real DOF from the cam cover - that would be fascinating ! But then you wouldn't need the roller - a deep grove ball bearing would be adequate?Oh no , another IMSB thread!
You may find some interst/amusement here:
http://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/851476-broke-piston-with-baum-circlip-tool-help-please.html

Sincere thanks for your story and good luck !

Last edited by Gelbster; 02-19-2015 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 02-18-2015, 07:23 PM   #3
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Jaykay,
If you watch the video in the link i posted you'll see how the set screw is retained. The video was produced by the person gelbster mentions - John Edwards of Costa Mesa R&D. Basically by careful use of the tapered tap, you can cause the screw to basically run aground against the uncut portion of the threads at the bottom of the hole at the exact same time the screw goes below flush on the outside.

He uses some high temp thread locking goo. I used JB Weld. That screw is not going anywhere. I considered running another screw at 180 degrees to balance the first, but the weight of a set screw is going to be very close to the weight of the materiel removed during drill and tap. Given the difference between those two weights relative to the mass of the shaft , I'm not going to lose any sleep over balancing.

Gelbster,
I won't ever declare victory, and certainly not after a few thousand miles. The only time my vehicles are driven carefully is while waiting for temps to come up. What i will do is share what i learn along the way. This has been a very educational process.

I too am running the ARP rod bolts. I got the bearing carrier bolts but they came with the instruction to align bore the carrier. That's not happening this time around, so I'm sitting on those bolts until next time.
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Old 02-23-2015, 03:31 PM   #4
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As I type I'm reminded of the old Monty Python segue: "And now for something completely different".

This next series of steps with the M96 is really the only part which has caused me to stress out, because I've never done anything like it. I've seen the apt reference that installing pistons 4-6 is akin to building a ship in a bottle.

I needed a lot of practice. And practice I did.

Getting the wrist pin retaining clips in is challenging enough just sitting on your wood bench with good light. If it doesn't seat perfectly there is a very high probability that it will jump out during the first engine run and sod things up for good.

So I got a bunch of practice with my tools. After marking the tool for depth at each cylinder location I started installing piston #6 (the furthest one) and went through the process.

In my first 10 attempts at inserting the the retaining clip for cylinder #6 I got it properly seated 1 time. That was not anything like a good enough average to bother with breaking out the Drei Bond. So I kept at it, fine tuning my technique, polishing the segment of the tool which has to mate up perfectly with the piston before "firing" the wrist pin. Finally I began getting it consistently and now I can tell just by the feeling through my hands that it is seating property.

Next, I rotated the case half so I couldn't see inside because that is cheating and I wouldn't be able to do that with the case halves together. Here is where my earlier practice paid off because I was getting pretty good at setting up the wrist pin clips in the tool just using my fingers.

Cylinders 5 and 4 were much easier. If anything the tool runs a little sloppier the more it comes out of the case and it would be easy to mess up if you get complacent.

Next I cleaned both case halve joining surface with acetone, then got out the Drei Bond and made a bead, then had my youngest son help me by guiding the timing chain and connecting rods while I lowered the case half onto the other one.

I hurriedly got screws in all the locations and then used my air ratchet wrench to bring the case halves just snug. Then I whipped out the torque wrench and got all the case half screws to spec, in the order the book says. I'm not ashamed to admit that I use a sharpie pen to write the torque sequence directly on the engine. When I'm done an acetone rag destroys any evidence that I suffer from CRS.



Now I have to position the engine so that the cylinder bores are upright and I can rotate the crankshaft. Then we'll see if I really practiced enough.
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Old 02-23-2015, 04:07 PM   #5
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Flaps,
You are still at a nerve wracking stage -are those circlips correctly seated? How did you inspect them?
In my "broke the piston" thread elsewhere I describe a few tricks like a wood V-block to cradle the piston, using an illuminated endoscope and big-screen laptop to verify placement of the circlips inside the engine.I also made the "Logray hook" to tug at the circlips to try to pull them out after inserting them.Yup, # 4 came out!!!!Fortunately I retrieved it.
After that I removed the 'hook end' on the 3 difficult circlips. That eliminated the micro alignment requirement. It is all in that thread. I do not recommend anything I did because I have no proof it works yet ! The fact that it rotates by hand 'smooth as buttah' to quote our mentor -is irrelevant .It would do that with no circlips at all!
It is interesting to see the video of how John Edwards inserts circlips in the Subaru H6.Totally different to Baum. Jake's new tool is easier because it eliminates the slapping/banging nonsense.
Thanks for explaining what you have done - it will help others who follow.
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:54 PM   #6
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So what do you do when you're stuck at home, borderline delusional with fever and chills (besides buying a 14 year old sports car without a thorough pre buy - so last summer)?

Why, you install piston 4-6 of course!

I wish i could say i was kidding. I also wish i could say could say i was successful.

Piston #6 had me the most nervous. It went off without a hitch. My insertion tool marks dropped into place just the way i practiced and i knew instantly that the snap ring landed correctly. I almost didn't bother to create the flashlight on mirror tool, but that would have been a really stupid move. It really did go in exactly as desired.

With piston #5 it started out smoothly enough. But where you should verify the tool to your marks and not 95% sure, i sent the clip home and this time it did not sound right. Flashlight on mirror tool confirmed that the clip is sitting perfectly on the outside of the snap ring groove.

Didn't want to risk shooting the wrist pin clip into the crank case, so i got real careful. Did some pondering and had an idea to save the day. I spent $11.35 at my local home box store and brought home the materials to create the required tool.

I'll post up a diagram and some pictures tomorrow.
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:59 PM   #7
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The tool i devised consists of a piece of 1/4-20 all thread, an acorn nut, a piece of 1/2" copper pipe (which is about 5/8 OD), a piece of fuel hose and a few more 1/4-20 nuts.

I first did a mock up as follows


Basically this is a Chinese finger puzzle, or viewed another way out is similar to the way some of you extract your spark plug tubes. Picture a small diameter boat drain plug on an extension.

I had hoped to find a socket which would slip inside the copper pipe. I would have sacrificed a cheap socket for the cause. That size combination didn't materialize, so i ended up bonding a nut in the end of the tube using JB Weld. In addition, the rubber piece on the finished product is around 2" long. As shown it wouldn't get past the deep chamfer in the wrist pin.

The diameter of the copper is required to retain the wrist pin when it comes out of the bore.

It worked perfectly.



Above picture taken down the cylinder bore after the wrist pin was extracted. This shows how the clip is kept from dropping inside the engine.


Extracted.

Half an hour later i was done installing the last of my pistons.

Huge relief to have that behind me.
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