Accusump install

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by AZ986S

I did just update the relief valve with the following parts:

Piston 99710712501
Spring 99610712753
Gasket 99610712350

Is the Low RPM kit different than this?

No, that is it. I would also agree with something already mendtioned: Pull the sump cover and check your pickup. We have seen several that were packed strands of excess sealants that broke loose and ended up in the sump.

[steved0x]

Mocal/batinc sells banjo fittings that are high inner diameter but low profile, might be a good solution, check.out batinc.net, I will find a link tomorrow if you haven't found them yet.

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

I'm jealous that you can mount yours in the tunnel. My only critique/suggestion is that I've found it helpful to check the pressure in the tank every once in awhile. I'm having issues with my release valve and have had to look at the gauge to see if the tank has oil in it. With your gauge down underneath it might be difficult to see

I'm happy I could put it there too

I don't have room for a third gauge on my custom made gauge panel, but I could likely put a small LED pilot light wired up to a 5 psi pressure switch mounted on a tee where the accusump air gauge is. That would tell me I have low pressure on the air side, but would not give me realtime pressure... Do they make a WIFI pressure sender? Would be nice to have that on my phone.

[spendy]

I installed an accusump in the tunnel of my cayman. In order to see the gauge, I mounted it so that it was pointed downward and drilled a 2" or so hole in the plastic belly pan below. I covered the hole in clear lexan. It allows me to see the gauge with fewer risks for leaks than a remote gauge would present. I only check the gauge rarely, so the inconvenience is not a problem for me.

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by spendy

I installed an accusump in the tunnel of my cayman. In order to see the gauge, I mounted it so that it was pointed downward and drilled a 2" or so hole in the plastic belly pan below. I covered the hole in clear lexan. It allows me to see the gauge with fewer risks for leaks than a remote gauge would present. I only check the gauge rarely, so the inconvenience is not a problem for me.

With plastic undercover off, the gauge is still hard to see because of the coolant pipes blocking the view I think I'll just install an electric pressure sender connected to a gauge in the cabin. Location TBD

[steved0x]

I think the air pressure port is 1/16th NPT, put a VDO sender (same as oil) and wire it to your oil pressure gauge along with a switch to toggle the gauge between the accusump air side sender and oil pressure sender. I called vdo and they said it was ok, and canton will give you the thread for the air pressure port. I was going to do this but never installed my accusump since my fuel filter is in the tunnel and blocks it.

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I think the air pressure port is 1/16th NPT, put a VDO sender (same as oil) and wire it to your oil pressure gauge along with a switch to toggle the gauge between the accusump air side sender and oil pressure sender. I called vdo and they said it was ok, and canton will give you the thread for the air pressure port. I was going to do this but never installed my accusump since my fuel filter is in the tunnel and blocks it.

Steve! You are the man!
You always have the perfect solution!
I will do just that and I'll try to upload photos when I'm done.

[AZ986S]

Well gents, bad news. This is probably my issue.
Haven't looked at the filter yet.
The funny thing is the engine ran strong and still runs strong.
These particles are magnetic, so iron or steel.
Also there is a tiny little spring that I circled in red??? Variocam?

Any ideas as to what this is? Valve spring retainers? Looks like ribs on the particles.



(



The good news is it's early in the season:

[Rwc94303]

If these particles are what they look like to me I don't know how this engine is still running! Yes, valve spring retainers and keepers plus that little spring (I think it's from a valve stem seal).
Take it apart before you touch the starter again.
Good luck!

[jsceash]

I have to agree the small pieces with the ribs are valve keepers.

[AZ986S]

Looks like that is the case. The other pieces to me look like they are probably either the spring retainer itself or the the hydraulic lifter. Either way, there is probably a bent valve and possibly more damage, so the heads are going to come off I'm sure, and, if the engine is salvageable, I'm probably going to upgrade to racing springs, retainers and keepers.

Here's what the keeper (1/2) looks like:



There's a post on Rennline that discusses the possible cause for this happening. It seems like the bottom line is that Over Reving causes the valves to "float" and impact the piston, especially with high RPM operation such as DE or racing. These are made of sintered powder metallurgy, and are brittle. The spring tends to soften up with age and this adds to the problem.

I'll be talking to one of the Phoenix area Porsche racing specialists (Patrick Motorsports) tomorrow and see what they say

[AZ986S]

After debating all the options and talking to my Indy shop owner that did lots of work on my Boxster, my co-worker that is a dedicated and very knowledgeable Porsche aficionado, and shopping around (including looking at $25K 2010 987.2 Boxsters), and going through all the stages of loosing your baby, I pulled the trigger today and acquired a used 3.2 engine out of a 2000 Boxster S from a reputable Porsche salvage yard here in Phoenix. The owner also knows and works with my Indy so that is a plus for me. The engine is very clean, no oil leaks. It was owned by an older gentleman that backed up on a light post, and so the insurance company totaled it. Hard to believe from the damage, just barely any damage on the rear bumper. Engine apparently had some major work done at 38,000 miles and was pulled at 63,000 miles. No details on the work done, maybe IMS? That year I am told has the dual row IMS bearing (1% failure rate?), so my mechanic will pull the IMS flange, oil filter and inspect. I think I'll just leave it in there if there are no signs of wear or abuse. I'm also told that you can't re-use (pull) an LN Engineering IMS bearing after it has been installed. I had a ceramic dual row pro IMS bearing installed on my car about 7k miles ago. Might consider one of the other oil fed IMS bearing offering out there if needed.

It's tempting to just want to upgrade everything on the motor since it is out, and I will certainly swap a bunch of stuff I already had done on the motor to the used one.

I'm going to load the car on the car trailer tomorrow (after installing the winch) and deliver it along with the used motor to my mechanic. I will probably have it back by the end of next week and in time for the first PCA DE of the season No break in required!

As for the pulled motor, I might consider attempting a rebuild during this winter and keeping it as a spare. Or, might part it out.
Hey maybe I'll get lucky and I only will have to pull the heads.

[AZ986S]

Update on the used engine swap.

My indy called and told me that the engine I acquired was a factory reman with the unserviceable IMS bearing. I think that would make it a 987 3.2 2006-2008. Now I know what the "major engine work was"! I asked about adding a DOF system to the bearing, but he advised against since it might drop the oil pressure, so all he did was remove the outer bearing seal for better engine oil lubrication. Apparently engines from 2006-2008 with the 3rd IMS bearing design that is larger are supposed to be more reliable... less failures. True or not?

Also, I was not happy when my indy told me that the parts shop I purchased the engine from had cut off the Variocam solenoid pigtail and there was nothing to solder to... so they had to pull the valve cover from both engines, and swap out the old for the new. Looks like Porsche wants $500 for that solenoid! Other than that, I had them replace the AOS, plugs, tubes, water pump and also swap out from the old engine the IPD plenum, 74 mm TB, underdrive pulley and other stuff I had installed.

It should be ready to pick up this Friday and I'll get to use my new trailer
Can't wait to try it on the track at Wild Horse Pass:dance:

I will buy an engine stand and start diagnosing the old engine with leakdown first, oil filter examination, and then get into pulling the valve covers since debris looked like valve keepers. Maybe, just maybe I can save the bottom end.

[itsnotanova]

A five chain motor with the big bearing? Didn't know that existed

[rastta]

Originally Posted by AZ986S

Update on the used engine swap.

My indy called and told me that the engine I acquired was a factory reman with the unserviceable IMS bearing. I think that would make it a 987 3.2 2006-2008. Now I know what the "major engine work was"! I asked about adding a DOF system to the bearing, but he advised against since it might drop the oil pressure, so all he did was remove the outer bearing seal for better engine oil lubrication. Apparently engines from 2006-2008 with the 3rd IMS bearing design that is larger are supposed to be more reliable... less failures. True or not?

I found out I had a 2005 3.6 with the larger non removable (without engine disassembly) in my Boxster. I also have a 2008 Cayman S daily driver with the same style bearing. I've had the seal removal done on both. Will it be effective? I honestly don't know - but it can't hurt and it's the only thing that can be done without major engine work.........

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

A five chain motor with the big bearing? Didn't know that existed

Did the 3.2 not come in the 3 chain configuration? I'm thinking that is what I have.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

A five chain motor with the big bearing? Didn't know that existed

It doesn't..............

[itsnotanova]

Originally Posted by AZ986S

Did the 3.2 not come in the 3 chain configuration? I'm thinking that is what I have.

Yes but unless I missed something you have a 5 chain boxster. I've had a customer put a M97 motor in a 03(first year of the 3 chain) boxster and it wasn't easy. I'd imagine putting one in a 2002 would be even harder. You said this motor came out of a 2000 which would sound near impossible to me.

[AZ986S]

OK so I just got back from the shop.

It looks like the factory re-manufactured 3.2 engine that was pulled from the donor 2000 Boxster S had the M97 bottom end with larger IMS single row bearing but still has the original Variocam. The fuel rails had the integrated pressure regulator and so had to be swapped with the ones on the pulled engine since the 2002 Boxster S has the regulator on the fuel pump. They also swapped the injectors since they were blue instead of white (what's the difference?).

I have not looked a the intake, but apparently the M97 3.2 makes 280 HP with a larger airbox, larger exhaust and intake. So hopefully the 7.2 DME will drive this engine correctly.

I did read from the Pelican article on Boxster engine swaps that the M97 3.2 (not reman) requires the use of the 7.8 DME, wiring and DME pin changes. That appears to not be the case here with my swap so far. So that is probably what you are referring to Woody for your customer having a hard time with his swap...

More to come...

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by AZ986S

OK so I just got back from the shop.

It looks like the factory re-manufactured 3.2 engine that was pulled from the donor 2000 Boxster S had the M97 bottom end with larger IMS single row bearing but still has the original Variocam. The fuel rails had the integrated pressure regulator and so had to be swapped with the ones on the pulled engine since the 2002 Boxster S has the regulator on the fuel pump. They also swapped the injectors since they were blue instead of white (what's the difference?).

I have not looked a the intake, but apparently the M97 3.2 makes 280 HP with a larger airbox, larger exhaust and intake. So hopefully the 7.2 DME will drive this engine correctly.

I did read from the Pelican article on Boxster engine swaps that the M97 3.2 (not reman) requires the use of the 7.8 DME, wiring and DME pin changes. That appears to not be the case here with my swap so far. So that is probably what you are referring to Woody for your customer having a hard time with his swap...

More to come...

Check the engine number on the sump rail; willing to be it has an "AT" in it, but the numbers will tell you what year it was designed for.