Race suspension alignment

[993innc]

Been looking around and have found some that don't use spacers. Elephant Racing has a set that is like a tie rod, it threads in/out instead of shims for adjustment. Any comments on that style either way? In theory, seems like the perfect way to go. Infinite adjustment without the need for shims or other "loose" parts.

As for the rear, simply lower the car. Camber is achieved via the concentric in the lower arm, I'll need to get new toe links, correct? Or do I have to replace all of the arms back there with adjustables?

[thstone]

Originally Posted by 993innc

Been looking around and have found some that don't use spacers. Elephant Racing has a set that is like a tie rod, it threads in/out instead of shims for adjustment. Any comments on that style either way? In theory, seems like the perfect way to go. Infinite adjustment without the need for shims or other "loose" parts.

I can't see any significant difference between shimmed or threaded types of LCA's. Shims come in varying thickness and often require more than one to achieve the desired camber. Also, the shims are somewhat expensive and can be easily lost in a tool box. It is hard to tell but I wonder if the threaded type might be vulnerable to dirt/muck getting onto the exposed portion of the thread and might be hard to adjust after a few years. Pick your poison.

Originally Posted by 993innc

As for the rear, simply lower the car. Camber is achieved via the concentric in the lower arm, I'll need to get new toe links, correct? Or do I have to replace all of the arms back there with adjustables?

Yes, lower the car and you'll need new adj rear toe links. Most folks do not use rear adj LCA's.

[993innc]

Originally Posted by thstone

I can't see any significant difference between shimmed or threaded types of LCA's. Shims come in varying thickness and often require more than one to achieve the desired camber. Also, the shims are somewhat expensive and can be easily lost in a tool box. It is hard to tell but I wonder if the threaded type might be vulnerable to dirt/muck getting onto the exposed portion of the thread and might be hard to adjust after a few years. Pick your poison.



Yes, lower the car and you'll need new adj rear toe links. Most folks do not use rear adj LCA's.

I agree with you about the trash getting into threads. But A) I hope not to mow the grass with the car B) those joints can't be any more susceptible than tie rods etc...

Could always wrap with tape to keep clean.

You've been a big help, thank so much. Now I just need to figure out who to buy from. As usual, spending waaaay more than I want to. Hate that I have the need to go fast

[Brad Roberts]

Most folks do not use rear adj LCA's

I use them on every car every time.. It settles down the toe gain under braking by replacing those worn out rubber bits on our donor cars

FYI:

Unless you perform tire temps.. on your car.. at the track.. camber settings are *only* guesses. I have drivers that heat their tires evenly with -3.6 on a shaved RA1, then I have guy's who heat the tires evenly with -3.2 on the same tire.

Camber is driver and track dependent. I don't run the same camber on the right rear at Willow Springs that I would run at CA. Speedway. The track design heats the tire differently. You see this in pressures also. You cannot run the same cold starting pressure in the left rear at WSIR as the right rear. You will burn down the left rear

All good info coming from group!! The toe gain explanation is one of the best I have seen online!!

Also: Raising the steering rack in the front to correct bump = we've been doing this for years in 914's and 911's. Porsche Motorsports does this on ALL the RSR's and I do it on Cayman's and Boxster's

[LAP1DOUG]

Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

Raising the steering rack in the front to correct bump = we've been doing this for years in 914's and 911's. Porsche Motorsports does this on ALL the RSR's and I do it on Cayman's and Boxster's

This statement has been bothering me a bit. So, yesterday I checked my front bump steer. My set-up has aftermarket tie-rods, so I can shim the rod end at the upright rather than shimming the steering rack, but it's all the same.

My toe change was less than 0.1 degrees throughout the whole travel range with no shim adjustment. I haven't compared the tie-rods I am using to the OEM tie-rod dimensions, so it could be some difference there. The only other thing I can think of is that I am using a lot less caster than stock, so perhaps the caster change also has an effect.

I guess the moral is there is no short-cut to testing your exact configuration.