07-24-2016, 04:43 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Tie rod removal problem.
Was trying to get Tie rod off and stripped the head is the torx screw so I can't get the nut off to remove the tie rod. Any advice?
Last edited by jeeper31; 07-24-2016 at 05:00 PM.
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07-24-2016, 05:00 PM
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#2
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I am my own mechanic....
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 3,432
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Isn't the part of the shaft that's visible flat on two sides where a wrench can grab it?
Looks like maybe a cut off and new track arm.
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07-24-2016, 05:02 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timco
Isn't the part of the shaft that's visible flat on two sides where a wrench can grab it?
Looks like maybe a cut off and new track arm.
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Thanks.
You mean get a wrench between the ball joint and the sleeve it sits through?
What would be the best way to cut it?
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07-24-2016, 05:21 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,466
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Might try a saws-all with a high-speed steel blade. Second wold be a 4" angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel. Last would be a die grinder similar cutting blade. It's probably easier to cut the nut than the actual tapered shaft, in which case you might get away with a cutting wheel on a Dremel.
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07-24-2016, 05:23 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami florida
Posts: 1,591
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Does the nut turn. If it does then get a sacrificial torx/hex bit and jam it in the stripped torx. You should then be able to hold the bolt so you can get the nut off.
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07-24-2016, 06:15 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,954
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+ 1 on Dremel tool
If I were in your shoes, I would jut cut the nut with a dremel.
You will still have plenty of fun left trying to remove the ball joint from the arm...
Good luck
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07-24-2016, 07:02 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Detroit
Posts: 211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles
If I were in your shoes, I would jut cut the nut with a dremel.
You will still have plenty of fun left trying to remove the ball joint from the arm...
Good luck
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Ditto on that. Have had to do the same thing before. Dremel groove followed by nut splitter.
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07-24-2016, 06:18 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san rensho
Does the nut turn. If it does then get a sacrificial torx/hex bit and jam it in the stripped torx. You should then be able to hold the bolt so you can get the nut off.
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The nut is frozen on the torx. I don't think I can get another torx in there.
Last edited by jeeper31; 07-24-2016 at 06:35 PM.
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07-24-2016, 06:39 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,476
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Try a nut splitter?
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07-25-2016, 11:15 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Thanks all. I cut the top of the tie rod off under the nut and it just dropped out. Replaced the tie rod, put it all together. Tried to shake the wheel as before and there is still play in the wheel when I shake it with my hands at 9 and 3. There is no play with hands at 12 and 6. And ideas what it could be now? Thanks.i
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07-26-2016, 03:01 AM
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#11
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Project Addicted
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern Shore, MD
Posts: 623
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If the inner and outer tie rod ends are tight, then you are looking at wear in the rack itself or the rack mounts. This is a system and you can chase/see what is loose as you go towards the steering wheel. You will need some help to get the wiggling and seeing done at the same time.
Good luck!
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Jon
1966 912, 1976 911
1986 944, 2000 Boxster
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07-26-2016, 04:34 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcslocum
If the inner and outer tie rod ends are tight, then you are looking at wear in the rack itself or the rack mounts. This is a system and you can chase/see what is loose as you go towards the steering wheel. You will need some help to get the wiggling and seeing done at the same time.
Good luck!
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Thanks. If it's just one side can it be the rack? The drivers wheel is tight
Last edited by jeeper31; 07-26-2016 at 04:45 AM.
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07-26-2016, 04:51 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,644
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The R&P on these cars is a great unit and I've never had anyone ask for one except for guys who race spec and that's because they hit something. Not saying it can't be the R&P, but I would think it's something else.
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Woody
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07-26-2016, 04:55 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsnotanova
The R&P on these cars is a great unit and I've never had anyone ask for one except for guys who race spec and that's because they hit something. Not saying it can't be the R&P, but I would think it's something else.
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Thanks. That's good news. Which also means you have plenty if I need one. lol
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08-13-2016, 11:46 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Minnesnowta
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeper31
Thanks all. I cut the top of the tie rod off under the nut and it just dropped out. Replaced the tie rod, put it all together. Tried to shake the wheel as before and there is still play in the wheel when I shake it with my hands at 9 and 3. There is no play with hands at 12 and 6. And ideas what it could be now? Thanks.i
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This is usually rack wear.
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07-25-2016, 11:52 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Could it be play at the other end of the tie rod? There is a ball joint there too. Unclear if you replaced the whole tie rod or just the outboard end. Also, If the steering wheel is not immobilized you might get some shake? Have someone sit in the car and hold the wheel? 3rd, there is also a ball joint on the LCA that constrains the movement of the wheel, possibly there is play there?
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07-25-2016, 12:07 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x
Could it be play at the other end of the tie rod? There is a ball joint there too. Unclear if you replaced the whole tie rod or just the outboard end. Also, If the steering wheel is not immobilized you might get some shake? Have someone sit in the car and hold the wheel? 3rd, there is also a ball joint on the LCA that constrains the movement of the wheel, possibly there is play there?
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Thanks.
I replaced the outer control arm but when it was apart I really pulled on the inner and it felt fine. How can I check the bushing in the LCA? Could it be wheel bearings?
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07-25-2016, 02:53 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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If it was wheel bearing seems like you would get movement even at 12 and 6. I don't know how to check the other ball joint, maybe watch it while someone else shakes the wheel?
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07-25-2016, 03:11 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,551
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The inner ball joint is threaded into the steering rack, and should exhibit no free play and any direction. If it does show play, it must be replaced as well.
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07-25-2016, 03:14 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Long Island
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
The inner ball joint is threaded into the steering rack, and should exhibit no free play and any direction. If it does show play, it must be replaced as well.

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I am getting no movement from the inner ball joint.
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