Tie rod removal problem.
 

Was trying to get Tie rod off and stripped the head is the torx screw so I can't get the nut off to remove the tie rod. Any advice?

Isn't the part of the shaft that's visible flat on two sides where a wrench can grab it?

Looks like maybe a cut off and new track arm.

Thanks.

You mean get a wrench between the ball joint and the sleeve it sits through?
What would be the best way to cut it?

Might try a saws-all with a high-speed steel blade. Second wold be a 4" angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel. Last would be a die grinder similar cutting blade. It's probably easier to cut the nut than the actual tapered shaft, in which case you might get away with a cutting wheel on a Dremel.

Does the nut turn. If it does then get a sacrificial torx/hex bit and jam it in the stripped torx. You should then be able to hold the bolt so you can get the nut off.

+ 1 on Dremel tool
 

If I were in your shoes, I would jut cut the nut with a dremel.
You will still have plenty of fun left trying to remove the ball joint from the arm...
Good luck

The nut is frozen on the torx. I don't think I can get another torx in there.

Try a nut splitter?

Ditto on that. Have had to do the same thing before. Dremel groove followed by nut splitter.

Thanks all. I cut the top of the tie rod off under the nut and it just dropped out. Replaced the tie rod, put it all together. Tried to shake the wheel as before and there is still play in the wheel when I shake it with my hands at 9 and 3. There is no play with hands at 12 and 6. And ideas what it could be now? Thanks.i

Could it be play at the other end of the tie rod? There is a ball joint there too. Unclear if you replaced the whole tie rod or just the outboard end. Also, If the steering wheel is not immobilized you might get some shake? Have someone sit in the car and hold the wheel? 3rd, there is also a ball joint on the LCA that constrains the movement of the wheel, possibly there is play there?

Thanks.

I replaced the outer control arm but when it was apart I really pulled on the inner and it felt fine. How can I check the bushing in the LCA? Could it be wheel bearings?

If it was wheel bearing seems like you would get movement even at 12 and 6. I don't know how to check the other ball joint, maybe watch it while someone else shakes the wheel?

The inner ball joint is threaded into the steering rack, and should exhibit no free play and any direction. If it does show play, it must be replaced as well.

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...-rod-large.jpg

I am getting no movement from the inner ball joint.

If the inner and outer tie rod ends are tight, then you are looking at wear in the rack itself or the rack mounts. This is a system and you can chase/see what is loose as you go towards the steering wheel. You will need some help to get the wiggling and seeing done at the same time.

Good luck!

Thanks. If it's just one side can it be the rack? The drivers wheel is tight

The R&P on these cars is a great unit and I've never had anyone ask for one except for guys who race spec and that's because they hit something. Not saying it can't be the R&P, but I would think it's something else.

Thanks. That's good news. Which also means you have plenty if I need one. lol

I ran into a similar thing, had play at 9/3 but it felt like heavy play. I spent an hour trying to figure out where it was coming from before my father said "you know the steering wheel is turning a little, right?"

He hopped in and held the wheel, no play.