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Old 07-15-2016, 09:39 AM   #1
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Clutch Replacement

Clutch died on way to work this morning on my 01 "S" (80k miles).

I was reading some replacement instructions but it was not clear how high the car needs to be jacked up on stands. Does anyone have a number of inches I need to raise the car to do the Clutch work?

Raise all 4 corners or just the rear onto jack stands?

Also, what is the best clutch kit to put back in. Should I be looking at other than OEM clutches?

What else should I look at while the transmission is out. (I know to look at the IMS and RMS for leaks)

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Old 07-15-2016, 10:43 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb92563 View Post
Clutch died on way to work this morning on my 01 "S" (80k miles).

I was reading some replacement instructions but it was not clear how high the car needs to be jacked up on stands. Does anyone have a number of inches I need to raise the car to do the Clutch work?

Raise all 4 corners or just the rear onto jack stands?

Also, what is the best clutch kit to put back in. Should I be looking at other than OEM clutches?

What else should I look at while the transmission is out. (I know to look at the IMS and RMS for leaks)
6-speed bellhousing is 15.5" high from a flat surface, so add the height of your removal device the trans will sit on. My "S" is 24" from floor to the Silver heat guard insert on the rear bumper cover muffler tip. You want the car as level as practical to aid trans removal & install, also to minimize rear suspension alignment settings loss when you remove the triangular brace panel. OEM flywheel/clutch parts unless it is a dedicated track car. Have them balanced if possible. Fantastic access with the trans out so look at everything! Put top in service position so you can access top trans bolts easily.
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:49 AM   #3
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If you calculate too low to get the trans out you can remove the bumper cover for more clearance.

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Old 07-15-2016, 12:02 PM   #4
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If you calculate too low to get the trans out you can remove the bumper cover for more clearance.

You have a fantastically clean garage! It would be a pleasure (almost) to work on the Boxster in that space. Kudos.
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:33 PM   #5
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If you use conventional jack stands under the lift points found in front of the rear wheels the bumper will be all kinds of tall enough to get the transmission out. When I dropped my engine I had to lift the car higher to get it out, but the trans is easy.
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Old 07-15-2016, 01:02 PM   #6
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[QUOTE "Clutch died on way to work this morning on my 01 "S" (80k miles)."

Before you pull the transmission - check the hydraulics for issues? Just make sure the actuating lever moves when the clutch pedal is depressed.
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Old 07-15-2016, 04:34 PM   #7
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I just had my clutch replaced
Ordered the Sachs K7029001 kit
Best price I found was $325 at Rock Auto and **************************** matched it
I went with FCP because they had better shipping speed

My car is just under 82K miles and in fact the clutch was still good, but the throwout bearing was completely shot and the DMFW also was done.

Th clutch plate still had around 20-25% life left. I am guessing the TOB was done due to the tracking I do with the car and the DMFW had about 90 deg of movement each way. Spec is 15 deg

I was lucky as several months ago I had found a DMFW that had 9 miles on it, essentially brand new for $125 on ebay so it saved me a lot of $$.

My indy was in the process of moving his shop, so his lift was out of commission and he did the replacement on jack stands.

I know a guy up your way (corona) that will probably do a clutch replacement for around $500 labor if you want. PM me and I pass on his info. He is a VERY reputable shop, does a lot of track cars for POC guys and was highly recommended.

If you pull the DMFW, you need to replace the 8 bolts and they run a couple of $ each
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Old 07-15-2016, 05:19 PM   #8
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I have a 3 chain engine and if I remember correctly, I used the longer tool for the 1-3 bank and the shorter tool for the 4-6 bank at the same time, as I wanted to lock the cams and crank before removing the chain tensioners to remove the IMS flange as the seal was leaking...

Last edited by Gilles; 07-15-2016 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 07-15-2016, 07:20 PM   #9
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If you use conventional jack stands under the lift points found in front of the rear wheels the bumper will be all kinds of tall enough to get the transmission out. When I dropped my engine I had to lift the car higher to get it out, but the trans is easy.
That is good info to know, somewhere I read the car had to be at least 32 inches off the floor.....very difficult without a lift
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Old 07-17-2016, 05:57 AM   #10
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Pulled and replaced my trans on stands. Was not a bad job. Fairly easy job. Made my own flywheel lock with scrap steel and a welder.
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Old 07-17-2016, 08:21 AM   #11
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When you start to do this type of work you really should look into a lift. I am not criticizing anyone's efforts with this post. I am merely noting the time saving and or safety of using a lift which are relatively inexpensive when you start comparing the time savings and safety working under the car. I will add that I've had my motor/trans out 3 times. Transmission alone 5 or 6. Changing tires and brakes is an hour chore

This is not a criticism just a comparison I admire what some of the members are doing with minimal equipment. If you look in the pictures Bypordriver has remove allot of hardware to remove the motor at that height. Both suspension frames, both axles, rear bumper, bumper shields, exhaust, Inner fenders, ETC. This is going to require a complete alignment post install. My guess is he has at 10 hours removing on his back and a similar amount to install.

With a lift it possible to remove or install an engine/trans in 3-4 hours. None of that needs removed except exhaust. The Suspension can remain intact so no alignment post repair. Remove Front motor bottom plastic cover. Intake tubing TB and rear cross tube, Disconnecting ECU harness through trunk fire wall, Oil fill tube, water return from oil cooler, Dip stick tube, + Battery cable from front motor terminal, Ground from Air pump, Air Pump and Fan Plugs, Triangle cover and diagonal braces, mid cross members. Unbolt axles from trans (they can stay), Shift cables, and clutch Hyd. line, Fuel lines and PS lines to connectors on under body, 4 Water line and drain water, Sway bar and rear frame hoop. Lower the car on top of your dolly or to raised jack(s). Unbolt motor mount and trans mount. Lift car slowly while also dropping motor/trans jack. AC pump can be suspended on top of engine cover lip, At about 30-36" your totally free to roll motor/trans out on the jack(s).

Trans Is about 2-3 hours. Remove Mid pipes and muffler, bottom aluminum diagonal brace and triangle pan, Sway bar and rear frame hoop. Shift cables, Clutch Hyd tube, Trans reverse plug. Unbolt trans-bell, and Axles. Brace the rear of motor. Raise Trans jack to trans. remove trans mounts. Pry/ wiggle the trans back, Drop trans on the jack 18-24" clearance required roll it out on you jack/dolly
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Old 07-17-2016, 08:42 AM   #12
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+1 for lift, in general!
Its too bad that most folks don't have the option of accessing a lift and doing their own work. I often wondered if it would be financially feasible to open and DYI shop. I'm sure insurance would be scary!

At $7/hour bay fee, I do very little with my car on jack stands anymore....brake flushes and cleaning rims are about it.

I have no experience pulling motor or tranny but would certainly be willing to do it on a lift. I'll pass on trying that work on stands. Hats off to those that do but I know I'd just wear myself out crawling under the car over and over again, with the incorrect tools of course!
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Old 07-17-2016, 09:21 PM   #13
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Lots of good info I can put to use. Thanks guys.

JayG, Jeez at $500 its making me think twice about doing it myself, but I do like poking around the Boxster myself and learning more about it. Its very satisfying to fix something yourself, makes you feel omnipotent. I think I'll give it a go myself this time around. Good thing is that once its fixed I'll be getting some Auto-X time in again as I could feel the clutch starting to go a month ago as the pedal preSsure seemed to change.

On friday evening the GF's Jeep Wrangler was having the "Death Wobble" so I replaced the track bar and that nightmare is fixed. I got a big appreciative smile and an IOU for other fun stuff when she drove over the trigger bumps and no more Death Wobble.

Jsceash, I had considered a scisor lift at one point but it seems hard to justify when you only need to get under the car a couple times a year maybe. Plus my garage is tight for space.

Dghii, for us hobbyists we typically have the car sitting too long waiting for parts or other todo list priorities to make the Bay rental cost effective.

If my car work is in progress and I get a wind alert for great Kite Surfing conditions, I'll be headed for the beach instead.

Gelbster, the clutch pedal is still working, but the hookup is lacking and if I apply too much gas I can see the revs go up without an increase in speed so the clutch slip is very obvious. I'll check everything in any case and I will have to determine whether the DMFW needs replacing as well.

ByProd, 15.5" plus lift device, exactly what I needed to know. Good to know I can also remove bumper cover if I need extra clearance.

I'm using the 101 Boxster projects guide as it seems to describe things fairly well plus they have extra info online.
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Old 07-18-2016, 06:45 AM   #14
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Did my clutch on jack stands. I was 42 years old at the time and my knees were crying towards the end. It didn't help that it took me three weeks because it was my first time and I had a hell of a problem with the stupid triple square trans mounting bolt. While a lift would have helped with my knees, it would have been harder to hide the fact that I spent a lot of time under the car just crying because I thought I had gotten into something I shouldn't have.

Everything turned out well though. I'm hoping to be rich by the time it goes out again and can either afford a lift or afford someone else to do it for me. I haven't decided how rich I'm going to be in 40k miles yet.
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:49 PM   #15
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I'll have to pick up some foam knee pads to avoid tears, I was thinking the skinned knuckles would be the main cause for waterworks and bloody red messes.
Whats up with these triple square trans mounting bolts? I suppose I'll need a special driver or are they common at Home Depot or Autozone?

I think you needed to be rich before you bought the Porsche and then try to preserve your fortune by DIY.
Doing it the other way is just a constant uphill battle, but perhaps the motivation is more desperate and compelling.
Most guys don't do much unless there's a really nice carrot dangling out front to keep you focused and going in the right direction.
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:34 PM   #16
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I think Harbor Freight sells triple square tools
NAPA auto parts may have themn as well.
I am guessing Home Depot does not
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Old 07-18-2016, 05:59 PM   #17
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I believe that Sears (Craftsman) has the triple square sets as well
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Old 07-18-2016, 06:29 PM   #18
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You need a very short triple square for that bolt....

You can see the snap on one I use on the breaker bar on my hydraulic table.

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Old 07-18-2016, 06:34 PM   #19
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Got my first set from Federated Auto Parts. I had to use a die grinder to cut it down. Then you can turn it with a ratcheting box end wrench. after the second time I I purchace a Snap on set Which almost cast as much as the lift
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Old 07-18-2016, 06:53 PM   #20
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This is the set I have which also includes the needed security triple square.

https://store.snapon.com/Product-Details-Set-Socket-Driver-Metric-Triple-Square-Stubby-XZN-Blue-Point-9-pc-P646953.aspx

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