Clutch Replacement

[jcslocum]

Yeah, that isn't good. It's quite hard to see that in the pics but 1 side does look quote thin. Time for a new disc...

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by jcslocum

Time for a new disc...

Yes, time for a new disc, new pressure plate, new throw out bearing (with the plastic guide where the bearing rides).

Also, you should closely inspect the fork lever for metal fatigue since you mentioned that some of the fingers are more worn than others...

[Gelbster]

jb,
You mentioned wanting to test the DMF. The rotational free-play test is easily done incorrectly. Following are some links to help you.
Be careful removing it - very heavy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgBxOOTKxMI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPxTbz3XwS4

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

jb,
You mentioned wanting to test the DMF. The rotational free-play test is easily done incorrectly. Following are some links to help you.
Be careful removing it - very heavy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgBxOOTKxMI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPxTbz3XwS4

Way, way, way over complicated. Porsche released a TSB on this very subject:





Takes about 1 min. to do, does not require a ton of special equipment.

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Yes, time for a new disc, new pressure plate, new throw out bearing (with the plastic guide where the bearing rides).

Also, you should closely inspect the fork lever for metal fatigue since you mentioned that some of the fingers are more worn than others...

The fork lever is the newer style, quite thick metal. I took it out, pressure washed it and inspected it. Looks like new.

Good stuff Gelbster and JFP, I like easy testing and understanding the DMF's function and how it works...cool.

DMF noises seem to be the most obvious clue of a worn out DMF without taking anything apart. Good to know.
Mine is quiet so we will see how the test turns out.

Glebster, you must have a Yellow Boxster based on your username?

[jb92563]

Using the Porsche test procedure that JFP showed us, my DMF was within spec as described.

I locked the flywheel for this test but honestly that was not necessary as you just use a bit of hand pressure to do the test and the compression/friction is enough to restrain the flywheel for this test. Super easy, no tools required.

Ordered a new clutch from rock auto that includes the clutch cover, clutch plate and throwout bearing.

Also from pelican the clutch alignment tool that you use to line the clutch up when putting the cover back on and new clutch cover bolts.

Now I'll have to start gathering all the torque values for putting everything back together while waiting on the parts.

Timco, I'm not replacing the Pivot Pin as it looks brand new and no noticeable wear. Where/What kit did you get?
That is a good note for others to beware, probably should let the seller know as well so they get the right Pivot Pin in the kit for your model/yr.

I also had a thought since the transmission is out siting on a furniture dolly it might be a good time to top up/replace any manual transmission fluids there might be?
Is there any or is it lifetime grease or oil?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by jb92563

I also had a thought since the transmission is out siting on a furniture dolly it might be a good time to top up/replace any manual transmission fluids there might be?
Is there any or is it lifetime grease or oil?

No, there is no "lifetime" product. Buy your gear oil from Porsche only as they use a unique specification product that is made for them, no one else has a direct substitute. You should also plan on servicing the trans every 40-50K miles, like other lubricant service intervals, the gear box oil is too long.

While you have the car apart, it would be a good time to put a 2 1/4 diameter hole in the triangular plate for future trans service without taking anything apart. The plate is soft aluminum, so a decent hole saw (we got ours from Amazon) will make quick work of it. Be sure to hold the plate up under the trans and mark where to put the hole as it is off center a bit.

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

No, there is no "lifetime" product. Buy your gear oil from Porsche only as they use a unique specification product that is made for them, no one else has a direct substitute. You should also plan on servicing the trans every 40-50K miles, like other lubricant service intervals, the gear box oil is too long.

While you have the car apart, it would be a good time to put a 2 1/4 diameter hole in the triangular plate for future trans service without taking anything apart. The plate is soft aluminum, so a decent hole saw (we got ours from Amazon) will make quick work of it. Be sure to hold the plate up under the trans and mark where to put the hole as it is off center a bit.

Ah, valuable info there JFP, thanks, I better get that oil in before my clutch arrives.
I'm having Boxster driving withdrawl symptoms and if I keep trying to drive my Wrangler like the Boxster something is going to break.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by jb92563

Using the Porsche test procedure that JFP showed us, my DMF was within spec as described.

I locked the flywheel for this test but honestly that was not necessary as you just use a bit of hand pressure to do the test and the compression/friction is enough to restrain the flywheel for this test. Super easy, no tools required.

Ordered a new clutch from rock auto that includes the clutch cover, clutch plate and throwout bearing.

Also from pelican the clutch alignment tool that you use to line the clutch up when putting the cover back on and new clutch cover bolts.

Now I'll have to start gathering all the torque values for putting everything back together while waiting on the parts.

Timco, I'm not replacing the Pivot Pin as it looks brand new and no noticeable wear. Where/What kit did you get?
That is a good note for others to beware, probably should let the seller know as well so they get the right Pivot Pin in the kit for your model/yr.

I also had a thought since the transmission is out siting on a furniture dolly it might be a good time to top up/replace any manual transmission fluids there might be?
Is there any or is it lifetime grease or oil?

FYI, the Sachs clutch kit I bought came with an alignment tool.

[jb92563]

Originally Posted by JayG

FYI, the Sachs clutch kit I bought came with an alignment tool.

I bought the same kit you mentioned. You must be a preferred customer because I had to buy the alignment tool separate from Pelican. Couldn't even find the tool on their website.

I have the clutch back together and most everything else has been torqued back in place, just need to bolt the mufflers and plastic body shield to finish the job.

Having never done any kind of clutch replacement before I would still rate it as a fairly easy DIY, but it does take some time and organization of parts because of all the peices you have to take off.

No sweat for a Hobbyist as you have a 2nd car and in no particular hurry.

I think I only cussed once when I rolled into a pile of clutch dust and blackend myself with it. I should have taken a picture of my face as well. You know how things itch at the worst possible moment. I looked like a Comanche in full war paint.

I was wondering if there is any kind of break-in required for a new clutch before I resume with spirited driving shifting again?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by jb92563

I was wondering if there is any kind of break-in required for a new clutch before I resume with spirited driving shifting again?

Drive it for about 50 miles or so, looking for noises, proper engagement, shifting, etc. If everything is fine, feel free to beat the snot out of it...........

[JayG]

Originally Posted by jb92563

I bought the same kit you mentioned. You must be a preferred customer because I had to buy the alignment tool separate from Pelican. Couldn't even find the tool on their website.

I have the clutch back together and most everything else has been torqued back in place, just need to bolt the mufflers and plastic body shield to finish the job.

Having never done any kind of clutch replacement before I would still rate it as a fairly easy DIY, but it does take some time and organization of parts because of all the peices you have to take off.

No sweat for a Hobbyist as you have a 2nd car and in no particular hurry.

I think I only cussed once when I rolled into a pile of clutch dust and blackend myself with it. I should have taken a picture of my face as well. You know how things itch at the worst possible moment. I looked like a Comanche in full war paint.

I was wondering if there is any kind of break-in required for a new clutch before I resume with spirited driving shifting again?

I didn't buy it from Pelican.
I bought it from FCP Euro $326
They matched Rock Auto price and had better shipping