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Old 02-08-2015, 05:21 PM   #1
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Sump pan reinstall torque?

Searched and read the first 5 threads or so. Figured I'd ask.

How long do I let the sealant set before reinstalling? Final torque? Pattern?

Thank you.

ETA...clean. Not a speck of plastic or metal. Magnetic plug had a very slight film on it. Sweeeeet.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:54 PM   #2
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As a general rule M6 bolts into the M96 are 10Nm. But that assumes you chased the threaded hole and cleaned swarf/oil/dirt out. I usually use a little less but use blue loctite.On the sump plate I used green because of removing it for inspection.
The sealant -whatever you do it is a nuisance because at some stage you'll need to remove/clean the sealant. I used DreiBond(3bond) and followed the directions. Use only the absolute minimum size bead -3mm max. I try to place it toward the outer edge to prevent ooze getting into the sump. I would rather have a little weepage of oil that lumps of sealer floating in the oil.
I am tempted to try Hylomar because it may be easier to remove.
The sealants are anerobic so slap the parts together asap and leave them for a day or more to set.
Just pretend the bolts are cylinder head bolts and use that criss-cross pattern and tighten in many progressive stages. I use an old aircraft mechanics 1/4 dial-type torque wrench.Full deflection is 9+Nm. so it is easy to see.
On my recent deep sump project I replaced all the bolts with custom length s/s studs+red loctite - so much easier and no chance of stripping threads. From a geekish engineering point of view ,the studs are a good way of dealing with this issue in other parts of the engine also.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelbster View Post
As a general rule M6 bolts into the M96 are 10Nm. But that assumes you chased the threaded hole and cleaned swarf/oil/dirt out. I usually use a little less but use blue loctite.On the sump plate I used green because of removing it for inspection.
The sealant -whatever you do it is a nuisance because at some stage you'll need to remove/clean the sealant. I used DreiBond(3bond) and followed the directions. Use only the absolute minimum size bead -3mm max. I try to place it toward the outer edge to prevent ooze getting into the sump. I would rather have a little weepage of oil that lumps of sealer floating in the oil.
I am tempted to try Hylomar because it may be easier to remove.
The sealants are anerobic so slap the parts together asap and leave them for a day or more to set.
Just pretend the bolts are cylinder head bolts and use that criss-cross pattern and tighten in many progressive stages. I use an old aircraft mechanics 1/4 dial-type torque wrench.Full deflection is 9+Nm. so it is easy to see.
On my recent deep sump project I replaced all the bolts with custom length s/s studs+red loctite - so much easier and no chance of stripping threads. From a geekish engineering point of view ,the studs are a good way of dealing with this issue in other parts of the engine also.
Thanks. I'll convert that to ft-lbs. my torque wrench only has that scale.
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:03 PM   #4
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i used my 12 volt dewalt impact driver to reinstall mine. just remember to use a super thin "skin" of sealant. if you use a bead, it will squeeze out and the silicone on the inside may come loose and clog your pick up tube screen.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:03 AM   #5
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Timco - here is a pelican article that may be useful...

Pelican Porsche Tech Article - Installing a Deep Sump Kit - Porsche 911 - Porsche 996 Carrera (1998-2005), Porsche 997 Carrera (2005-2008)
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:44 AM   #6
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7.5 foot pounds, and personally I'd skip the locking compound if you plan to check this often. I only use locking compound on bolts that stay bolted.
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:02 AM   #7
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Similar story for me, 10 NM on the bolts, and I did use blue Loctite. I cannot remember if I used an alternating pattern or not, but I don't believe one was specified. I personally went around a couple of times and tightened them up little by little, and then once the torque wrench clicked I went around and did them all again.

What really helped me was I went to Lowe's and got 3 longer bolts that matched the sump bolts and got the heads cut off using the machine that cuts links of chain. Then I threaded these (now studs) into the the sump and used them as a guide to make sure that I was sliding the cover on correctly. This helped me make sure that I didn't smear the sealant all over...
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
Similar story for me, 10 NM on the bolts, and I did use blue Loctite. I cannot remember if I used an alternating pattern or not, but I don't believe one was specified. I personally went around a couple of times and tightened them up little by little, and then once the torque wrench clicked I went around and did them all again.

What really helped me was I went to Lowe's and got 3 longer bolts that matched the sump bolts and got the heads cut off using the machine that cuts links of chain. Then I threaded these (now studs) into the the sump and used them as a guide to make sure that I was sliding the cover on correctly. This helped me make sure that I didn't smear the sealant all over...
Wow, I'm about to do mine as well, and that is SOLID advice! Great idea, thanks!!
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesp View Post
7.5 foot pounds, and personally I'd skip the locking compound if you plan to check this often. I only use locking compound on bolts that stay bolted.
Or 85 inch-lbs.
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:14 AM   #10
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" I only use locking compound on bolts that stay bolted. "
GREEN (WICKING ) Loctite is perfect for sump plate bolts.Alternative is Purple.
Why do you think Porsche used MEC bolts all over the M96?
Red Loctite or blue would be a different story.
If, by mistake/intent you use blue, and want to remove the bolts easily - 'crack' them when the engine is hot.
Without a threadlocker, heat cycling/vibration may loosen the sump bolts - unless you over-torque.
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelbster View Post
As a general rule M6 bolts into the M96 are 10Nm. But that assumes you chased the threaded hole and cleaned swarf/oil/dirt out.
That is true with the exceptions having the 10.9 grade marking on the head. They are torqued to 10 ft/lbs. Cam-cover, case perimeter, camshaft timing gear bolts are 10.9 & torqued to 10 ft/lbs.
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