Sump pan reinstall torque?
Searched and read the first 5 threads or so. Figured I'd ask.
How long do I let the sealant set before reinstalling? Final torque? Pattern? Thank you. ETA...clean. Not a speck of plastic or metal. Magnetic plug had a very slight film on it. Sweeeeet. |
As a general rule M6 bolts into the M96 are 10Nm. But that assumes you chased the threaded hole and cleaned swarf/oil/dirt out. I usually use a little less but use blue loctite.On the sump plate I used green because of removing it for inspection.
The sealant -whatever you do it is a nuisance because at some stage you'll need to remove/clean the sealant. I used DreiBond(3bond) and followed the directions. Use only the absolute minimum size bead -3mm max. I try to place it toward the outer edge to prevent ooze getting into the sump. I would rather have a little weepage of oil that lumps of sealer floating in the oil. I am tempted to try Hylomar because it may be easier to remove. The sealants are anerobic so slap the parts together asap and leave them for a day or more to set. Just pretend the bolts are cylinder head bolts and use that criss-cross pattern and tighten in many progressive stages. I use an old aircraft mechanics 1/4 dial-type torque wrench.Full deflection is 9+Nm. so it is easy to see. On my recent deep sump project I replaced all the bolts with custom length s/s studs+red loctite - so much easier and no chance of stripping threads. From a geekish engineering point of view ,the studs are a good way of dealing with this issue in other parts of the engine also. |
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i used my 12 volt dewalt impact driver to reinstall mine. just remember to use a super thin "skin" of sealant. if you use a bead, it will squeeze out and the silicone on the inside may come loose and clog your pick up tube screen.
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Timco - here is a pelican article that may be useful...
Pelican Porsche Tech Article - Installing a Deep Sump Kit - Porsche 911 - Porsche 996 Carrera (1998-2005), Porsche 997 Carrera (2005-2008) |
7.5 foot pounds, and personally I'd skip the locking compound if you plan to check this often. I only use locking compound on bolts that stay bolted.
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Similar story for me, 10 NM on the bolts, and I did use blue Loctite. I cannot remember if I used an alternating pattern or not, but I don't believe one was specified. I personally went around a couple of times and tightened them up little by little, and then once the torque wrench clicked I went around and did them all again.
What really helped me was I went to Lowe's and got 3 longer bolts that matched the sump bolts and got the heads cut off using the machine that cuts links of chain. Then I threaded these (now studs) into the the sump and used them as a guide to make sure that I was sliding the cover on correctly. This helped me make sure that I didn't smear the sealant all over... :) |
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" I only use locking compound on bolts that stay bolted. "
GREEN (WICKING ) Loctite is perfect for sump plate bolts.Alternative is Purple. Why do you think Porsche used MEC bolts all over the M96? Red Loctite or blue would be a different story. If, by mistake/intent you use blue, and want to remove the bolts easily - 'crack' them when the engine is hot. Without a threadlocker, heat cycling/vibration may loosen the sump bolts - unless you over-torque. |
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