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Old 10-17-2017, 07:55 AM   #1
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Upcoming inspection and TÜV:

Changed back to stock top and trunk lid/3rd brake light: 30mins, 2 people...even taking our time.
So once everything is in place and all moves internalized...15mins from Z-Top to stock.
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Old 10-17-2017, 12:26 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by BRAN View Post
Upcoming inspection and TÜV:

Changed back to stock top and trunk lid/3rd brake light: 30mins, 2 people...even taking our time.
So once everything is in place and all moves internalized...15mins from Z-Top to stock.
When does class start? You need to make a video.
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:12 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by JBauer View Post
When does class start? You need to make a video.
Videos would take too long...as I would try win an Oscar for quality and drama.
But a quick n dirty oldschool photoshop should do it too for now, I hope

Class starts now: Bueller...Bueller...Bueller...

Lesson I learned: Manuals are always missing the important details
I tried to use as much professional help as possible
--> Sanding, primer, paint...
--> Attaching the windows...
...well and for the rest...blood sweat and tears, just kidding.

Do all the test/final fitting and adjustments BEFORE taking it to the paint shop.
Especially the trunk lid/hatch...that is the part, which takes by far the most time to adjust...I even modded the hinge holes for better fitment.
And don't give up on the cable/wire duct...it is impossible to get those wires through that plastic tube...i ripped it out...and fiddled the cables with little tricks through the duct...string&wire does the trick.
When it comes to "glue" ...the paint shop buddies refused to do those rubber seals... to be continued...
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Old 10-27-2017, 07:13 PM   #4
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Videos would take too long...as I would try win an Oscar for quality and drama.
But a quick n dirty oldschool photoshop should do it too for now, I hope

Class starts now: Bueller...Bueller...Bueller...

Lesson I learned: Manuals are always missing the important details
I tried to use as much professional help as possible
--> Sanding, primer, paint...
--> Attaching the windows...
...well and for the rest...blood sweat and tears, just kidding.

Do all the test/final fitting and adjustments BEFORE taking it to the paint shop.
Especially the trunk lid/hatch...that is the part, which takes by far the most time to adjust...I even modded the hinge holes for better fitment.
And don't give up on the cable/wire duct...it is impossible to get those wires through that plastic tube...i ripped it out...and fiddled the cables with little tricks through the duct...string&wire does the trick.
When it comes to "glue" ...the paint shop buddies refused to do those rubber seals... to be continued...

I wish Id get my top so I could ask you some question. Still on truck, Delayed again. Wont be here until Monday or Tuesday now.
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Old 10-29-2017, 04:18 PM   #5
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Bran, I probably won't get my top for a couple more days but I'm curious. How was the finish on yours when you got it? Was it primered smoothly or gelcoated? Alot of rough spots or was it decent?

Thanks

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Old 10-26-2017, 08:53 AM   #6
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while the Boxster was on the lift today...we could see the IMS "sweating a bit".
The P-service guy was not worried about that...at all...he said not to panic, they gonna clean it and keep watching it. Keep calm and drive on...happens to our cars when they stand. OKAY...I did not panic...
Honestly...my Boxster sweated for 17 years now...I would panic, if it suddenly stopped doing it
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Old 10-27-2017, 04:47 AM   #7
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Could be RMS. Mine started a weep, hanging drop last winter. Only happens after driving. Adds a nice patina to the garage floor
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:37 AM   #8
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Could be RMS. Mine started a weep, hanging drop last winter. Only happens after driving. Adds a nice patina to the garage floor
I know,
Mine only "sweats" when standing for a while...
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Old 10-27-2017, 09:42 AM   #9
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nowa 987 tail lights module...so difficult to take a proper pic
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Old 10-30-2017, 02:54 PM   #10
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NOICE! Congratz, JB!

1st task was:
DREMEL /cutting those little edges, otherwise the roof wouldn't sink into a proper position


It was even more, than the photos show. The paint shop fixed the holes in the fiberglas later on.

2nd task was:
carefully drilling the screw-holes open. I noticed, that all the screws would only go like half way in, and the seller gave me the advice to drill them open and NOT to use force screwing them in/through.
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:08 PM   #11
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NOICE! Congratz, JB!

1st task was:
DREMEL /cutting those little edges, otherwise the roof wouldn't sink into a proper position


It was even more, than the photos show. The paint shop fixed the holes in the fiberglas later on.

2nd task was:
carefully drilling the screw-holes open. I noticed, that all the screws would only go like half way in, and the seller gave me the advice to drill them open and NOT to use force screwing them in/through.
Thanks for the tips. I was going to ask you about things that you did and wished you didn't. I know it's not in the car but it seems to fit together nicely on the floor. Only fkaw I can fin is a small chip around the wiring hose.
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:26 PM   #12
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I would say adjusting the hinges will be the biggest task.
You will see, that the right side hinge may collide with the inner rubber seal and that the screws in general won't always sit in a flush angle. So the work you will face is to correct that stuff and make it proper, what actually should have been done during the design and production phase.
But it is manageable...

chips....hmmm...the paint shop said, the primer was so bad, that the color would chip sooner rather than later...so I got the whole shebang sanded, properly primed and then painted.
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Old 10-31-2017, 03:53 AM   #13
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Question, this is all that came with it in terms of a front latch. I'm guessing you hook it first then tighten the bolts?



On the pic online at website it also shows this reinforcement?? below but it didn't come with the parts and isn't listed on the parts included list. I'm guessing they had a change in the parts needed after the pic was taken? Is this like your latch?

Opinions on what the second pic missing piece below is?
Thanks



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Old 10-31-2017, 05:09 AM   #14
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Front latch looks the same, but those two side pieces are missing?
They might be the same as for the regular TOP/Hardtop (not sure though)
Take a look at my pic and see what is missing on your side.

Transfered from another thread:
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Originally Posted by RedTele58 View Post
BRAN - lots and lots of pictures and a detailed write-up please of prepping the top and installation. Thanks!
Sure thing!!
The top comes with a 14 page installation manual, side and rear windows and parts.


Recommendation was: ALWAYS make sure, that the windshield-roof alignment is perfect throughout the whole adjustment process...so much for the very welcome tips of the seller.

What was missing in general:
hinges: Got a pair of new PORSCHE hinges
"Superglue": I used Liqui Moly 3805 & CSR-Automotive Elch Pro P1 1K-PU-GLUE ZB079 for the rubber seals (dunno what the pros where using for the side and back window).
cables: I got a pack of male/female connectors, to create plug'n'drive connections for the break light & heated rear window.
PLUS: I got the Porsche cable for the rear window OEM-hard top.
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:46 AM   #15
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Ok Thanks. That's exactly what I received. I guess I expected a latch like the factory top has. One that snugs tight when latching like this. I guess since its not removed alot it doesn't matter? .
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:49 AM   #16
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This piece is missing I thought but i dont see it in your pic either:

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Old 10-31-2017, 09:03 AM   #17
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JB, look at my picture...left to the latch are 2 black pieces...those are the ones you need. BTW left and right side are not symmetrical. Funny that the website shows only one.
The 2 front latch screws are never touched anymore once installed, and the top screw NEEDS to be screwed in after putting the TOP on, so it does not pop off, I guess
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:30 AM   #18
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JB, look at my picture...left to the latch are 2 black pieces...those are the ones you need. BTW left and right side are not symmetrical. Funny that the website shows only one.
The 2 front latch screws are never touched anymore once installed, and the top screw NEEDS to be screwed in after putting the TOP on, so it does not pop off, I guess
Ok thanks. I've got those. I just wondered why that pictured piece was missing 🙂
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Old 10-31-2017, 11:34 AM   #19
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Well I got it on but the top seems to be interfering with tge roof to keep it from seating. Did you have to trim the underside of the top or am Imissing something?
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Old 10-31-2017, 11:45 AM   #20
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Just guessing, but BRAN showed above in a couple of pictures where he had to trim to get it to seat. No idea about interfering with the soft top.
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