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Old 01-16-2018, 01:35 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by Hinemn View Post
I have watched the videos on YouTube, very helpful but not enough info.
Thanks for the heads up in locking the engine up.
Where did you get the proper info and instructions to rebuild your engine? What did your rebuild entail?
I’m thinking, main bearings, connecting rod bearings, rings, chains, guides, heads machined.
I’d like to hear how you went about rebuilding your engine.
I had quite a bit of metal in the pan. The entire bearing (including what was left of the balls and cage) and part of the IMS was in there. What a mess! I found that a neodymium magnet pulls iron filings off aluminum really well.

The engine had 120K on it when it gently lost the IMSB.

I tore it down to the crank and rebuilt it from there.

Due to failure I replaced the IMS shaft and bearing

Due to wear the chains and ramps, all the bearings, clutch friction disc

And likely some stuff that escapes me were replaced.

Replace the rod cap bolts - I read some sad stories of flying end caps.

I did have the heads re-worked

I did not replace the rings for 2 reasons

1) They showed very little wear after 120K miles

2) A set costs $1200. Really.

I did not replace the lifters and would do that if I were rebuilding again.

Expect to pay $2000 in parts

So there isn't a step by step rebuild guide -someone should write one! Jake likely has for his course

I used the information I could find on line the best of which was this forum.

Turns out if you ask nicely and refrain from being a jerk if you don't like the answer (a challenge for me at times...) folks on the forum will typically race each other to answer your question.

I received advice and even PMs from lots of the top folks on the forum including Jake Raby.

Figure out how to resurrect the rebuild threads on this forum, there are two or three. Read those, drop your engine Lock the timing to zero and dig in.

Good luck, enjoy!
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Old 01-23-2018, 03:35 PM   #2
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I will see the extend of the damage once I pull the engine our and apart, you're not the only person who didn't replace the rings. How did you instal the wrist pins for cylinder 4,5, and 6?
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Old 01-24-2018, 11:34 AM   #3
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I will see the extend of the damage once I pull the engine our and apart, you're not the only person who didn't replace the rings. How did you instal the wrist pins for cylinder 4,5, and 6?
Watch all of the glenn986 videos. They are quite good and will answer your questions.
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Old 11-20-2018, 07:45 PM   #4
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Watch all of the glenn986 videos. They are quite good and will answer your questions.
Do you mean 986fix.com.......authored by Glenn? Yes, nothing beats a good mechanical engineer
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Old 11-21-2018, 12:50 PM   #5
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Turning the engine to Zero will take most of the spring tension off the cams. The valve cover acts as the bearing caps for 2/3 of the camshafts. Once removed the cams can be damaged if too much spring tension is left on them.
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* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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Old 11-22-2018, 02:14 AM   #6
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Thx for the explanation. Now, in my case, because the engine cannot rotate, is there another way???
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Old 11-22-2018, 04:58 AM   #7
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Try to take the chain tensioner springs out of the block. Remove the chain sprockets screws on the cams to Let the cams settle on their own and remove the valve covers.
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2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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