dyi front camber mod

[baxster]

I've already adjusted my front camber by moving the strut tower bolts. When I look from underneath I can see that the top of the strut can move about another 1/4 inch if the bolt holes were a bit longer. That might give another .25 to .5 of negative camber.

Has anyone tried to make the bolt holes any longer? What do you think of the idea?

[harryrcb]

Yes it works great, although I would recommend getting larger type cupped washers for better grip.

[baxster]

What did you use to make the bolt holes longer or should I say wider? How much longer did you make the holes? How much of a difference did it make?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm curious if the work is worth it.

[harryrcb]

You can use a dremel or die grinder and I did it so long ago I don't remember the specs but it was worth it. don't know if you want to wait (have a lot of fires burninig right now) but eventually I can did into it and give you the specs. I do remember you need a lot of careful measurments sos that you don't screw up the caster by moving the strut forward or backward, you want to go straight in.

[baxster]

thx... I'll put this on my mod list.

[insite]

keep in mind that when you change the camber, you are also changin the toe.

with our cars, the tie rods attach ahead of the axle, so when you add negative camber, you toe out. when you add positive camber, you toe in.

the cars are set from the factory with some toe-in, but if you add enough camber to cause toe-out, be aware that the car will become darty when trying to drive straight. it will get a bit squirrely under braking. it will also tend to understeer a LOT in the rain. oh yeah, and it can DESTROY your tires.

better to be sure you understand what you're doing. the best alternative is to have an alignment shop add neg camber while doing a full alignment. this way, you can be sure your toe is proper.