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Old 11-30-2010, 08:57 AM   #1
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ok, so what's left?

1. cut 3/8" spacers to raise transmission above suspension crossmember
2. install suspension bits, bumper, etc
3. address apparent oil leak from cylinder 1 spark plug tube
4. drivability

this last one looks like we may have a small issue. i fired it up last night. the good news is that it started right up. the bad news is that i have a lumpy idle and a lot of smoke. it SEEMS like i have no fire in one of the cylinders. i plan on hooking up a code reader tomorrow to see what, if anything, has tripped. i'm hoping it's something simple, like a mis-connected spark plug wire or a poorly engaged coil pack.

i also seem to have a leaky spark plug tube. it's new, and so are the seals, so perhaps it's just not seated properly.....

i got a little excited toward start-up & took fewer photos than i had planned to. i will snap some more shots of the completed installation when i do some more work. until next time.......
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:01 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by insite
i also seem to have a leaky spark plug tube. it's new, and so are the seals, so perhaps it's just not seated properly.....

i got a little excited toward start-up & took fewer photos than i had planned to. i will snap some more shots of the completed installation when i do some more work. until next time.......
When I put new tubes/spark plugs in, I missed about 3 proper "snaps", that could most definitely be causing a problem with oil leaking, but it wouldn't affect idle...
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:28 AM   #3
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Insite,

Thank you for the great pictures..! You are almost ready to roll, congratulations !!

Q: how deep you drilled the holes for the helicoils..?

.
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:50 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Gilles
Q: how deep you drilled the holes for the helicoils..?
i had two bolts that actually came out okay, so i measured the depth of the holes & tried to match that with my drilling. i believe it was like 31mm.

when drilling through the bolts, it's easy to notice when you're at the bottom. there is a gap between the end of the fastener & the bottom of the tapped hole; you can feel when the drill goes through the last of the steel. still, though, better safe than sorry!
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:14 PM   #5
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Ugh! Extracting bolts that have bonded to the block is probably my least favorite job. I screwed it up more than once in my youth too. At least your motor was out where you could get some elbow room for turning wrenches and it sounds like you got good results.

From the looks of that motor I bet it saw duty on winter salted roads many times.
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:09 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Topless
Ugh! Extracting bolts that have bonded to the block is probably my least favorite job. I screwed it up more than once in my youth too. At least your motor was out where you could get some elbow room for turning wrenches and it sounds like you got good results.

From the looks of that motor I bet it saw duty on winter salted roads many times.
Topless:

Here's a link to my adventure with broken exhaust manifold bolts:

http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?19,1552140,1552140#msg-1552140

Worthwhile reading for anyone contemplating removing exhaust manifold to cylinder head bolts.

Regards, Maurice.
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:16 PM   #7
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Maurice, that line from the top of the oil cooler is a vent to the surge tank to release entrained air from the cooler, which happens to be the highest point of the cooling system on the engine. By getting rid of the air, the laminar flow exchanger works very well; with trapped air, its thermal efficiency falls off very quickly....
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