SwayBar discussion: Anyone go from M030 to GT3/Tarett?

[jaykay]

For those of you have adjustable rear sway(roll) bars how does the feel of the car change as you gradually stiffen the setting.......too much weight transfer to the outside wheel overloading the available traction? Correcting for this means more throttle once your in a slide?

[Johnny Danger]

Following the installation of a custom set of coilovers designed by 9FF (essentially a modified pss-9 kit to their specs), I added the H&R front and rear sways bars. After a little bit of back and forth testing, I chose to leave the rear sway at its stiffest setting. How this compares to other set-ups like the GT3 or ROW is difficult to know. There are many forum members who have far more experience with tracking their vehicle's than I do. I will say however, above and beyond the obvious difference the pss-9's made, the addition of the H&R sways was a vast improvement over the oem set-up.

[insite]

Originally Posted by jaykay

For those of you have adjustable rear sway(roll) bars how does the feel of the car change as you gradually stiffen the setting.......too much weight transfer to the outside wheel overloading the available traction? Correcting for this means more throttle once your in a slide?

front vs. rear is very different. as you add bar up front, the handling sharpens a little & the car feels more stable in high speed corners. too much & it starts to plow; too little & it feels like it won't really turn in. i find a good setting for mine & pretty much leave it there.

now the rear, that's a different story for me. it makes ALL the difference. no rear bar makes the car understeer a lot; it feels wet noodley. add some rear bar though, and the car really starts to pivot. in fact, the biggest simple difference you can make to a box is to swap out the rear bar; it's undersized from the factory to promote understeer. the base M030 bar is lots of bang for the buck.

rear bar seems to make the car WANT too turn. too much & it can get a little darty, and ultimately the rear will step out too frequently in corners. adding throttle helps add weight to the rear & restore grip. 'loose is fast' because the remedy here is to add throttle rather than to lift. in my car, if i add too much sway, i get to the point where i'm full throttle, the rear continues to step out & i have to correct w/ steering input. if i had a tad more power or grip, i could probably go full stiff on my rear bar at the track. on slicks, it's no problem. it can get hard w/ a lot of rear bar to put the power down because of inside wheel spin. if you have a diff, this is a non-issue.

[Stroked & Blown]

This is a great discussion.
Thanks, insite, for all the...erm....insight.

Pricing wise, the H&R rear + djustable end links comes out about the same as the Tarett rear setup w/ endlinks included. The only benefit is that you could start with the stock endlinks and add adjustables later.

I think I am just going to bite the bullet and go for the Tarett. Better option at a similar price.

[insite]

Originally Posted by Stroked & Blown

This is a great discussion.
Thanks, insite, for all the...erm....insight.

Pricing wise, the H&R rear + djustable end links comes out about the same as the Tarett rear setup w/ endlinks included. The only benefit is that you could start with the stock endlinks and add adjustables later.

I think I am just going to bite the bullet and go for the Tarett. Better option at a similar price.

the tarret certainly provides a bit more flexability. if anyone needs a cheaper drop link solution, PM me.

[Stroked & Blown]

Is there a way to order the tarett bar without the endlinks? They don't list it separately on their site.