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Old 05-21-2019, 08:10 AM   #1
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FYI: Be careful with the oil pipe that runs over the starter area. If you try to push it out of the way too far to get to the bolts on the starter, you can break the pipe where it's bolted down to the engine.
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:16 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by KRAM36 View Post
FYI: Be careful with the oil pipe that runs over the starter area. If you try to push it out of the way too far to get to the bolts on the starter, you can break the pipe where it's bolted down to the engine.
Thanks, Kram. I'll watch for that... as I've read it can be a pain to install. And that leads me to a question:

Couldn't that hard plastic pipe be replaced with some rubber tubing? Maybe a cut here... a cut there... introduce the rubber hose and worm-drive clamp to hold it together?

Burg... WP replaced <1K ago along with LTT. MM replaced while I was in there.

The serpentine belt looks fine... no squealing... no cracks... nice and snug. However, I'm not sure when last it was replaced. It seems rather solid. So... preventative replacement... or wait until next time I'm in there?

Thanks, Fellas!
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Old 05-21-2019, 11:39 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Starter986 View Post
Thanks, Kram. I'll watch for that... as I've read it can be a pain to install. And that leads me to a question:

Couldn't that hard plastic pipe be replaced with some rubber tubing? Maybe a cut here... a cut there... introduce the rubber hose and worm-drive clamp to hold it together?

Thanks, Fellas!
I don't think the plastic is strong enough to hold the weight of the rubber hose, especially where it bolts to the engine. These little ears that hold the pipe on break easily. This is what I'm warning about, breaking the ears.



I also don't think the plastic tube is thick/strong enough to use a worm-drive clamp and that's why Porsche just uses a tension type hose clamp.





Full picture link (large) from the tutorial shows how close the pipe is to the stater. Be gentle with it.

https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/images_large/Pic5.jpg

Also reading through Pelican's tutorial on changing the stater, they recommend to replace or reseal your oil cooler.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement.htm
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Last edited by KRAM36; 05-21-2019 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 05-21-2019, 12:35 PM   #4
1998 Boxster Silver/Red
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRAM36 View Post
I don't think the plastic is strong enough to hold the weight of the rubber hose, especially where it bolts to the engine. These little ears that hold the pipe on break easily. This is what I'm warning about, breaking the ears.



I also don't think the plastic tube is thick/strong enough to use a worm-drive clamp and that's why Porsche just uses a tension type hose clamp.





Full picture link (large) from the tutorial shows how close the pipe is to the stater. Be gentle with it.

https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/images_large/Pic5.jpg

Also reading through Pelican's tutorial on changing the stater, they recommend to replace or reseal your oil cooler.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement.htm
Thanks, Pal. Yes... don't want to disturb those ears. I'll be gentle. And patient.

Installed an S cooler and the rings a few months ago. Thanks for the head-up.

Funland. SoCal by any chance?

Cheers!
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:37 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Starter986 View Post
Thanks, Kram. I'll watch for that... as I've read it can be a pain to install. And that leads me to a question:

Couldn't that hard plastic pipe be replaced with some rubber tubing? Maybe a cut here... a cut there... introduce the rubber hose and worm-drive clamp to hold it together?

Burg... WP replaced <1K ago along with LTT. MM replaced while I was in there.

The serpentine belt looks fine... no squealing... no cracks... nice and snug. However, I'm not sure when last it was replaced. It seems rather solid. So... preventative replacement... or wait until next time I'm in there?

Thanks, Fellas!
Good tip from Kram... that crap gets very brittle and breaks easily what w/ all the German over-engineering and engine compartment heat.

You were in there for W/P and didn't do serp belt, w/ unknown history, whilst there? Shame on you

Did it have any clearly legible white printing left? If little, none, or not legible then yeah, I'd do now while in there or it'll likely be the reason you go back in (old belt was 'seasoned' w/ the old W/P... if you know what I mean). It's cheap insurance and keep the used one as an emergency backup (wrapped up behind your compact donut in the frunk is a good location). This way if the new ever breaks you won't be stuck on side of road in a small town in the middle of nowhere on a holiday weekend wishing for both a correct size belt and 15/16 socket and wrench... you'll just need the socket & wrench

Good luck!
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Old 05-22-2019, 05:40 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Burg Boxster View Post
Good tip from Kram... that crap gets very brittle and breaks easily what w/ all the German over-engineering and engine compartment heat.

You were in there for W/P and didn't do serp belt, w/ unknown history, whilst there? Shame on you

Did it have any clearly legible white printing left? If little, none, or not legible then yeah, I'd do now while in there or it'll likely be the reason you go back in (old belt was 'seasoned' w/ the old W/P... if you know what I mean). It's cheap insurance and keep the used one as an emergency backup (wrapped up behind your compact donut in the frunk is a good location). This way if the new ever breaks you won't be stuck on side of road in a small town in the middle of nowhere on a holiday weekend wishing for both a correct size belt and 15/16 socket and wrench... you'll just need the socket & wrench

Good luck!
Oh... I'm shamed.

I don't recall if it still had the white lettering, I believe not. I removed it when I replaced the WP... inspected it... and it looked brand new. However... I get the "seasoned" part and, when next I place a Pelican order (to include transmission filter kit) I'll order that "cheap insurance". Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Geof3 View Post
Check the top of your engine for power steering fluid, the pump overflow pukes it out on top of the motor, makes a nasty mess. Check your PS fluid too, maybe consider replacing.
Last week I had the cover off, and noticed a sharp hose kink about 2 inches from where it exits the reservoir. Cut it off just behind the kink... bought a couple feet of hose and will replace it this weekend. I've looked into replacing the fluid... and it appears I'll be getting under the car... disconnecting a line... draining... and refilling. Looks to be a real pain in the ass. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers!
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Old 05-22-2019, 11:23 PM   #7
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Oh... I'm shamed.

I don't recall if it still had the white lettering, I believe not. I removed it when I replaced the WP... inspected it... and it looked brand new. However... I get the "seasoned" part and, when next I place a Pelican order (to include transmission filter kit) I'll order that "cheap insurance". Thanks!



Last week I had the cover off, and noticed a sharp hose kink about 2 inches from where it exits the reservoir. Cut it off just behind the kink... bought a couple feet of hose and will replace it this weekend. I've looked into replacing the fluid... and it appears I'll be getting under the car... disconnecting a line... draining... and refilling. Looks to be a real pain in the ass. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers!
Or, and it’s not quite as good but works, is drain your res, refill, start car wheels back and forth, drain refill, rinse/repeat etc. that will “freshen up” the fluid to some degree. The best replacement though is to get under the car... it’s not as bad as it seems. The mess on top of the engine from old, dead, puked up PS fluid is harder to clean, than replacing the fluid!
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:27 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Geof3 View Post
Or, and it’s not quite as good but works, is drain your res, refill, start car wheels back and forth, drain refill, rinse/repeat etc. that will “freshen up” the fluid to some degree. The best replacement though is to get under the car... it’s not as bad as it seems. The mess on top of the engine from old, dead, puked up PS fluid is harder to clean, than replacing the fluid!
That's the route I considered, going into the reservoir. I'm going to do the same thing to my Edge as I believe it is my pump is making a slight groaning noise when in park and turning the steering wheel from left to right, and only about an inch each way. However, in the Edge I may just get under it and access the return line... and drain it.

The car makes zero noise... but I have no record if ever the PS fluid was changed.

Cheers!
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