10-07-2016, 07:23 AM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,273
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If you are getting P0300 series misfire codes, your coils or plugs are most likely the issue. I'd start there. And if this is the case with the codes, the Durametric is not going to tell you any more; you need to start doing close up diagnostics to ID the source.
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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10-07-2016, 01:53 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
If you are getting P0300 series misfire codes, your coils or plugs are most likely the issue. I'd start there. And if this is the case with the codes, the Durametric is not going to tell you any more; you need to start doing close up diagnostics to ID the source.
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Totally agree....time to get your hands dirty
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10-07-2016, 05:34 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greater Seattle, WA
Posts: 534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
If you are getting P0300 series misfire codes, your coils or plugs are most likely the issue. I'd start there. And if this is the case with the codes, the Durametric is not going to tell you any more; you need to start doing close up diagnostics to ID the source.
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Thanks for the info, JFP! Last summer I had a freak misfire episode (the CEL was flashing and engine clearly missing when it was happening, but fixed itself after shutting the car off, waiting a couple minutes, and restarting) that ended up being a P0303 - "Cylinder 3 misfire detected", so your advice seems like it should also be applicable in my case.
Looking under the car closely recently, I noticed there was evidence of a very a slight oil leak in middle cylinder on right (passenger) side. I wonder if that's cylinder #3. I have a set of new plugs ready to go, as well as new o-rings for the spark plug tubes. I suppose I should inspect the coils for cracks (especially whichever one is #3).
It's a 2001 boxster base 2.7 with a bit over 100k miles on it.
__________________
2001 Boxster
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10-07-2016, 06:23 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeru
Thanks for the info, JFP! Last summer I had a freak misfire episode (the CEL was flashing and engine clearly missing when it was happening, but fixed itself after shutting the car off, waiting a couple minutes, and restarting) that ended up being a P0303 - "Cylinder 3 misfire detected", so your advice seems like it should also be applicable in my case.
Looking under the car closely recently, I noticed there was evidence of a very a slight oil leak in middle cylinder on right (passenger) side. I wonder if that's cylinder #3. I have a set of new plugs ready to go, as well as new o-rings for the spark plug tubes. I suppose I should inspect the coils for cracks (especially whichever one is #3).
It's a 2001 boxster base 2.7 with a bit over 100k miles on it.
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Hey Jakeru! Porsche cylinders are numbered in order from front (closest to passenger compartment) to back. Bank #1 cylinders on pass side are 1,2 & 3. Bank 2, driver side are 4,5 & 6. so middle cylinder leaking on your car is #2.
Last edited by 911monty; 10-07-2016 at 06:29 PM.
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10-07-2016, 11:58 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
If you are getting P0300 series misfire codes, your coils or plugs are most likely the issue. I'd start there. And if this is the case with the codes, the Durametric is not going to tell you any more; you need to start doing close up diagnostics to ID the source.
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Thanks.
Is it likely that 3 or 4 would go faulty all together?
Is there any test I can do before buying replacements and just swapping out parts?
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10-08-2016, 06:23 AM
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#26
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichRobby
Thanks.
Is it likely that 3 or 4 would go faulty all together?
Is there any test I can do before buying replacements and just swapping out parts?
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Yes. Do the proper diagnostic checks, scan the car, check the coil pack connections, check the coils for cracks, etc.
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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10-11-2016, 10:16 AM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
If you are getting P0300 series misfire codes, your coils or plugs are most likely the issue. I'd start there. And if this is the case with the codes, the Durametric is not going to tell you any more; you need to start doing close up diagnostics to ID the source.
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I've now got the Durametric - and how right you are. It is showing a misfire code and nothing more. Guess I will now be getting my hands dirty and starting with the plugs and coils.
I might regret getting the Durametric now that I see the ignition range readings. From my limited understanding of them the over revs look very high!
Range 1 33785 / 2232 Hours
Range 2 145 / 372 Hours
Total Hours 2257
I assume range 2 at 145 is not good but at least it was a long long time back - is that correct? (Current mileage is 61000 by the way).
Is there anything in particular I should now check with the Durametric (other than fault codes)?
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10-11-2016, 01:37 PM
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#28
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On the slippery slope
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Austin and Palm Springs
Posts: 3,793
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Bear in mind that Range 1 is hitting the rev limiter
Range 2 is over redline
__________________
2004 Boxster S 6 speed - DRL relay hack, Polaris AutoTop DIY
2004 996 Targa Tip
Instructor - San Diego region
2014 Porsche Performance Driving School
2020 BMW X3, 2013 Ram 1500, 2016 Cmax, 2004 F-150 "Big Red"
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10-14-2016, 02:30 AM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 90
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Happy to report that after replacing 6 cracked coil packs and with 6 new plugs and a short test drive the car is running beautifully. A very satisfying bit of DIY car work.
Perhaps it was unnecessary buying the Durametric, so any advice on what else I could usefully learn from it would be appreciated.
Next on my list of jobs is replacing the brake fluid.
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10-14-2016, 12:37 PM
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#30
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Certified Boxster Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichRobby
I've now got the Durametric - and how right you are. It is showing a misfire code and nothing more. Guess I will now be getting my hands dirty and starting with the plugs and coils.
I might regret getting the Durametric now that I see the ignition range readings. From my limited understanding of them the over revs look very high!
Range 1 33785 / 2232 Hours
Range 2 145 / 372 Hours
Total Hours 2257
I assume range 2 at 145 is not good but at least it was a long long time back - is that correct? (Current mileage is 61000 by the way).
Is there anything in particular I should now check with the Durametric (other than fault codes)?
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That is a fairly small number of Range 2 over-rev's. Nothing to worry about.
__________________
1999 996 C2 - sold - bought back - sold for more
1997 Spec Boxster BSR #254
1979 911 SC
POC Licensed DE/TT Instructor
Last edited by thstone; 10-14-2016 at 12:39 PM.
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1998 Porsche Boxster
2004 Porsche Boxster S
2004 Porsche 996 Targa
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