"Check Engine: Bring to workshop" Engine Light On.
 

Guys,

I have a 2005 Boxster (987) with about 40,000 miles on it that bought last year around June. On my way back from our local Costco, the Engine Light came on with a message "Check Engine: Bring to workshop".

I didn't have any problems driving it back but haven't driven it since. One thing I found online was making sure the gas cap was screwed on properly; so I removed it & screwed it back on. Started the vehicle and still get the light.

As far as I know, in these vehicles, there is a difference between the "Check Engine" and the "Service Engine" message, which is accompanied by a flashing check engine light.

So just a couple of questions:
1. Should I drop everything, not drive it at all and bring it to a workshop immediately?
2. Is there any I should try before bringing it to a workshop to see if the error goes away?

Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks.

Take it to an auto parts store of service shop and get the code(s) read and write them down and report back. It is impossible to tell what is going on without more data. As long as the check engine light is not flashing, you should be fine.

Ok - I'll try & take it in somewhere today to do that; I'll have to find one here in the Glendale/Burbank area (CA). It's definitely not flashing yet.

Thanks.

Save yourself a whole lot of head aches and buy a simple scanner from auto parts store.
$30-$50 and you can get the codes, hit the internet and clear some of the base ones
Carry it with you so you can read them while out driving
Without the code number, no one is going to be able to give you any starting point for diagnoses

FYI - Any Mr. Lube will read the codes for free

As I don't think they have Mr Lube in the States, I'm waiting for the jokes to fly!

No Mr. Lube in the States.

Really! Mr. Lube. I guess that's a Canadian thing.

FYI many California auto parts stores now can't scan for you due to pressure from the CA SMOG inspection people (CARB).

I just had this today on my 3.2 Boxster S

I now have a bad engine mis-fire.

I rang my local in dependant garage and he said it would be OK to drive home (I was 40 miles away).

The questions are:

Anybody any idea what the problem might be?

Should I invest in a Durametric to get the codes and therefore might I be able to do some of the repair work myself or should I just take it to the indy garage for them to sort out?

Any help appreciated

Best advice with an expensive-to-fix, difficult-to-diagnose car like a Porsche/Ferrari/Aston is to find an honest,competent Indie .Ask here for referrals. Yes I am biased but we often listen to sad stories where owners use general mechanics who are ignorant of the foibles of these and similar cars.
The second best alternative is to buy and learn how to use all the diagnostic tools. Then share your findings here. That is a steep learning curve.It requires plenty of study time and a high level of background knowledge. Fun if you have all that.

Meaning of life question "...Anybody any idea what the problem might be?..."
As mentioned earlier in this thread, need CEL to narrow down.
BUT my own experience - Twice this year I got the Check Engine, once with noticeable misfires. Strange thing was that the CEL did not stay on in both instances. My Scanner told me they were Pending codes - Misfire codes.
I checked the Coil Packs and found 3/6 with cracks. I replaced all and new plugs.
Don't know if that was it as I haven't driven the car enough to feel confident that was the source of the problem.

It is. We get our oil in bags.

Mr Lube is a franchise quick oil change place that will try to up sell you on everything imaginable. It was started by the same guy behind the Boston Pizza chain, based in Edmonton not Boston, go figure.

Both the lube outlet and pizza joints chains offer oil and grease based products.

This is a big open ended question . I thought I had done sufficient research when I purchased my Boxster almost 4 years ago but I had not. I had been working on my E36 for some time, but the Porsche seemed like an Alien contraption to me....but I was determined. The big deal (to me) working on your own car is you know the quality of the work being done.....you know when you repair something and do it right it is repaired and not a "Band Aid" job. I purchased a durametric right after I got my Boxster, but a WIFI or Blue tooth device you can get for 20 bucks will tell you a ton of information and not break the bank. A misfire could be as simple as a bad plug or a bad coil pack....or even a bad connection. Jump in , take your time and learn your car....it will be rewarding.

A few tips from an old guy FWIW

Always put screws/small parts in containers to keep track of them

If unsure label and take photos with your phone before you take anything off

Keep your work area as clean as possible and clean as you go

Best of luck
Dwight

Thanks for the replies

I have a Durametric on the way - my view is that they are always sought after and keep their price pretty well.

I have a £10 OBD11 reader which isn't up to much but does it does indicate a 3 cylinder misfire.

I read somewhere that overfilling engine oil might cause a problem - well coincidentally I changed the oil only 100 miles before the incident and the level on the stick was right at the top of the range but the electronic level measure was one tick below the max level so I can't think it would be that.

When I spoke to the independent Porsche dealer he did mention it might be the O2 sensors amongst other things.

I hope the Durametric isn't too difficult to use and I will report back.

And not necessarily the most honest or competent.
Imagine my surprise to discover that the old filter I installed was still on the engine after their complete oil service.
Going back again?
Ahhhh... no.

China sells bt code reader for our cars on aliexpress for $3.42 with Free Shipping.... takes about a month for shipping but for just a couple bucks its amazing deal. Mine been bought just waiting for Santa to deliver it!

Here most mechanics don't use any lube at all......:eek:

Mr Lube sounds equivalent to Jiffy Lube.

Hi, as you changed the oil only 100miles ago I'd definitely check the oil filler cap...check its sealing correctly and forming a vacuum.
I had exactly the same thing on a Peugeot 207. I changed the oil and a day or so later the engine management light came on. Turns out the rubber seal inside the cap had split causing a leak. Once it was sorted the management light went out after a day or so - it only resets after its performed several cycles of no faults.

This is what I have for £10. It does show the fault as cylinder misfires but that's it. I didn't need telling that - it was so bad the car was vibrating to death! It did allow me to reset the fault code (maybe that was a mistake to clear it?). I just hope the Durametric will narrow it down to the reason for the misfires.

This reader does not find the airbag fault nor allow a reset.