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Old 09-21-2011, 06:42 AM   #1
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Clamshell Stuck Closed

Ok, passenger side Clamshell is stuck closed and the top is up and won't open. What is the best way to get the clamshell to open manually?

1. Pop off the ball end of the black steel pushrod? I already tried this and it wouldn't budge.
2. Pop off the little clips at the rear of the pushrods?
3. Unscrew the 19mm bolt right in the middle of V lever?

Thanks for the help.

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Old 09-21-2011, 07:36 AM   #2
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pop off the clips. they're hard to slide off from the cabin area, but they cost nine cents.....rip them off.

if your convertible top transmission is dead, PM me. i have extras.
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:12 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
pop off the clips. they're hard to slide off from the cabin area, but they cost nine cents.....rip them off.

if your convertible top transmission is dead, PM me. i have extras.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:59 AM   #4
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May not need to pop off the clips.

Remove each cable from the motor and use a drill to slowly rotate the cable and see if each transmission will turn. If the transmissions will not turn, you may have to pop off the clips.

What year is your car?
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dghii
Remove each cable from the motor and use a drill to slowly rotate the cable and see if each transmission will turn. If the transmissions will not turn, you may have to pop off the clips.

What year is your car?
1999. I can't get to the motor can I, the clamshell won't open? Do I have to remove
both clips that are visible on that side?

Last edited by keithl; 09-21-2011 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:16 AM   #6
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What is pressurized in there that keeps blasting me? I'm trying to grab the clip to pull it off and my hand/arm gets a blast (or mini explosion) of air/dust (I guess). This is really strange.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:27 AM   #7
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nothing pressurized, but there are water drains & rubberized covers. it's possible you're pressing on the rubberized cover & some air is being forced out from around the water drains.



Quote:
Originally Posted by keithl
What is pressurized in there that keeps blasting me? I'm trying to grab the clip to pull it off and my hand/arm gets a blast (or mini explosion) of air/dust (I guess). This is really strange.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:52 AM   #8
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You mentioned the 19mm bolt at the center of the boomerang - can you get at it?

If so, you should be able to pop off the clamshell links. The links that drive the top are bolted to the boomerang-shaped lever, but the ones on that back that drive the clamshell are ball sockets. If you can pop those off, you can open the clamshell.
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterbrown77
You mentioned the 19mm bolt at the center of the boomerang - can you get at it?

If so, you should be able to pop off the clamshell links. The links that drive the top are bolted to the boomerang-shaped lever, but the ones on that back that drive the clamshell are ball sockets. If you can pop those off, you can open the clamshell.

I can see it, don't know if I can get any kind of leverage to open it. It looks like it has locktite on too. Thanks.
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Old 09-21-2011, 05:11 PM   #10
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Removed the clip, got it open. The passenger side transmission doesnt turn, when the top is operated. Does that mean the cable on that side is broken? How does the plastic cover on the motor for the top come off? Thanks.
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:54 AM   #11
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You don't have to remove the cover on the motor.

You will see a silver clip where the cable enters the motor - pull up on it and it will come out in your hand. This clip retains the cable sheath for the drive cable. The drive cable is nothing more than a speedometer cable really - a square wire in the sheath. You can now pull out the drive cable.

Odds are, the one on passenger side will just a be a twisted mass of strands - that's what mine was.

If that is the case, you can either replace the cable or cut the sheath back an inch or so. The metal end is held in place by piercings through it - I just drilled them out with a small drill. Use a prick punch upon reassembly to hold the metal on on the sheathing.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterbrown77 View Post
You don't have to remove the cover on the motor.

You will see a silver clip where the cable enters the motor - pull up on it and it will come out in your hand. This clip retains the cable sheath for the drive cable. The drive cable is nothing more than a speedometer cable really - a square wire in the sheath. You can now pull out the drive cable.

Odds are, the one on passenger side will just a be a twisted mass of strands - that's what mine was.

If that is the case, you can either replace the cable or cut the sheath back an inch or so. The metal end is held in place by piercings through it - I just drilled them out with a small drill. Use a prick punch upon reassembly to hold the metal on on the sheathing.
Yep, twisted mass of strands. I will try the cable fix first. thanks! Looks like the cable is fried at least two inches down from the end, so I'll be ordering a replacement.

Last edited by keithl; 09-22-2011 at 07:36 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:37 AM   #13
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Once you get the new cable you are going to be faced with the real problem - timing the left and right sides so that the top moves evenly. I read a lot of DIYs on it which involved measuring the linkage positions in various ways until I discovered something in the Porsche Service Manual that I wish I had done at the outset: there are timing marks on the power top transmissions.

First, remove both boomerangs from the transmissions by taking out the 19mm bolt. Once they are off, you will be able to remove the plastic disc-shaped covers. Next, reassemble the boomerangs minus the covers. On the aluminum casting of each transmission are a series of 4 lines - these denote the outline of the boomerangs. Using either a cordless drill and chucking the cable (the easiest) or a friend operating the power top button in the car, move each lever individually until it is aligned with the timing marks on the transmission. The drill is easier because it moves much more slowly than the power top motor so you can be more precise in positioning.

Once each side is lined up, attach the the cables back to the motor, and remove the boomerangs and reinstall the plastic covers.

Good luck.

ps. BTW, this doesn't mean your transmission is okay - it could be bound up and the consequence was it destroyed the drive cable but let's keep our fingers crossed, okay?
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:04 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterbrown77 View Post
Once you get the new cable you are going to be faced with the real problem - timing the left and right sides so that the top moves evenly. I read a lot of DIYs on it which involved measuring the linkage positions in various ways until I discovered something in the Porsche Service Manual that I wish I had done at the outset: there are timing marks on the power top transmissions.

First, remove both boomerangs from the transmissions by taking out the 19mm bolt. Once they are off, you will be able to remove the plastic disc-shaped covers. Next, reassemble the boomerangs minus the covers. On the aluminum casting of each transmission are a series of 4 lines - these denote the outline of the boomerangs. Using either a cordless drill and chucking the cable (the easiest) or a friend operating the power top button in the car, move each lever individually until it is aligned with the timing marks on the transmission. The drill is easier because it moves much more slowly than the power top motor so you can be more precise in positioning.

Once each side is lined up, attach the the cables back to the motor, and remove the boomerangs and reinstall the plastic covers.

Good luck.

ps. BTW, this doesn't mean your transmission is okay - it could be bound up and the consequence was it destroyed the drive cable but let's keep our fingers crossed, okay?
Ok, thanks for the tip. The top operated slowly the last couple of times it worked before it stopped. I guess we will see if the transmission is fried too. Thanks.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:40 AM   #15
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Did you have to replace the transmission or just the cable?
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Old 09-29-2011, 03:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Did you have to replace the transmission or just the cable?
Stll waiting on the parts, ill let you know.
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:27 PM   #17
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Did you have to replace the transmission or just the cable?
So I recieved the cable today. I removed the transmission, i have the updated version, and tested it with the new cable. The cable seems to spin correctly in the transmission but the center wheel (where the large 19mm bolt goes) of the transmission never turns. Is that what happens when the transmission breaks? I would think the transmission would have jammed thus breaking the cable and then wouldn't turn at all.

Update:
Ok, i took the transmission apart, and it seems o be working apparently it moves so slow you can barley see it move.

Last edited by keithl; 10-04-2011 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:53 AM   #18
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Timing the transmissions.

I found a way to get the two sides lined up (timed) easily when I replaced a bad cable.

Before reconnecting the clamshell to the transmission, use a cordelss drill on each of the cables(while disconnected from the top motor) to move the side of the boomerang that connects to the clamshell to a vertical position. Check the arm for plumb using a torpedo level. Get each side level connect the clamshell and reconnect your cables to the motor.

Lower the clamshell until it is just about closed, just over the top of the trunk and verify that each side looks level. Remove a cable and use your drill if you need to adjust but I was able to align it in one shot using the level.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:07 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dghii View Post
I found a way to get the two sides lined up (timed) easily when I replaced a bad cable.

Before reconnecting the clamshell to the transmission, use a cordelss drill on each of the cables(while disconnected from the top motor) to move the side of the boomerang that connects to the clamshell to a vertical position. Check the arm for plumb using a torpedo level. Get each side level connect the clamshell and reconnect your cables to the motor.

Lower the clamshell until it is just about closed, just over the top of the trunk and verify that each side looks level. Remove a cable and use your drill if you need to adjust but I was able to align it in one shot using the level.
Thanks for the tip. I was thinking... one side hasn't been messed with at all, so I was just going to leave the one side with everything attached and try to line up the side with the new cable to the old one.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:17 AM   #20
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there are actually alignment marks on the transmissions

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