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Old 02-21-2024, 07:17 PM   #1
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6 Speed Transmission Service - Best Order of Operations?

Hi guys,

I have a 2000 Boxster S with ~40k miles on it, I'm working on dropping the transmission to a) verify and repair what I think is an RMS leak and b) replate a squealing throwout bearing. In addition I need to change the transmission gear oil.

I've been looking around but haven't found any answers either way - are there any advantages to draining the oil before dropping the transmission (weight is the one that immediately comes to mind) versus leaving it in, doing the service and reinstall, and then draining and refilling as I button things back up?

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Old 02-21-2024, 09:36 PM   #2
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Hi guys,



I have a 2000 Boxster S with ~40k miles on it, I'm working on dropping the transmission to a) verify and repair what I think is an RMS leak and b) replate a squealing throwout bearing. In addition I need to change the transmission gear oil.



I've been looking around but haven't found any answers either way - are there any advantages to draining the oil before dropping the transmission (weight is the one that immediately comes to mind) versus leaving it in, doing the service and reinstall, and then draining and refilling as I button things back up?
Alex, it looks like you just joined here. So welcome!

Couple of things to consider:

If you're going to drain and refill anyway, then I'd say drain first, fill last, with your r&r in between. What would be the point in doing otherwise?

Here's the bigger question, though:

You're chasing a rear main seal and a squealing t/o bearing. I hate to ask if you've read-up on the IMS for these motors?

I'm not an IMS doom-sayer, like some others. However: it might make sense to replace the IMS while you're in there looking at it.

Just a thought.



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Old 02-22-2024, 07:22 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by maytag View Post
... If you're going to drain and refill anyway, then I'd say drain first, fill last, with your r&r in between. What would be the point in doing otherwise?

Here's the bigger question, though:

You're chasing a rear main seal and a squealing t/o bearing. I hate to ask if you've read-up on the IMS for these motors?

I'm not an IMS doom-sayer, like some others. However: it might make sense to replace the IMS while you're in there looking at it. ...
When I remove a transmission it usually stays on the transmission jack till it goes back in, so draining the oil while it is on the ground is not an option. I drain it before removing the transmission and then fill it before reinstalling. The 6-speeds are HEAVY, so the difference in weight is not significant IMHO,
On the IMSB... with the flywheel off you can lock the cams and remove the IMSB flange and instpect the bearing to see if it is loose or binding. I have done this on two engines and they are still running Before reassembling I removed the oil seal so that the bearing gets lubricated by oil. With the seal off you can also see if there is any grease left in the bearing. On a third engine the bearing wasn't loose or binding but what grease that was left was hardened and mixed with a bit of oil. That IMSB I changed.
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Arctic Silver 2000 Boxster S - bought with a broken engine, back on the road with the engine replaced
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Old 02-22-2024, 09:09 AM   #4
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When I remove a transmission it usually stays on the transmission jack till it goes back in, so draining the oil while it is on the ground is not an option. I drain it before removing the transmission and then fill it before reinstalling. The 6-speeds are HEAVY, so the difference in weight is not significant IMHO,
On the IMSB... with the flywheel off you can lock the cams and remove the IMSB flange and instpect the bearing to see if it is loose or binding. I have done this on two engines and they are still running Before reassembling I removed the oil seal so that the bearing gets lubricated by oil. With the seal off you can also see if there is any grease left in the bearing. On a third engine the bearing wasn't loose or binding but what grease that was left was hardened and mixed with a bit of oil. That IMSB I changed.
As I said; drain 1st, do your remove and reinstall, then fill last. no mention of draining it on the ground. But it doesn't really matter much WHICH order... you just asked the question, and specifically mentioned weight..... insignificant as it is. I'm merely asking if you're planning to drain & refill anyway, then why WOULDN'T you drain first / fill last? that's all.

And it sounds like you're well-enough versed in the IMS situation. Carry-on then.
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Old 02-22-2024, 05:23 PM   #5
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Now that the question is answered, let me add this old discussion: http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/62465-transmission-gear-oil-change-made-easy.html

and as it outlines, drill the hole for access to the plug in case there's a next time.

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Old 02-22-2024, 05:30 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by maytag View Post

As I said; drain 1st, do your remove and reinstall, then fill last. :
+ 1
If I am removing and flushing the box, I drain it first, mostly to help me to minimize the mess on the floor, and fill up last..
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Old 02-22-2024, 06:26 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by maytag View Post
Alex, it looks like you just joined here. So welcome!

Couple of things to consider:

If you're going to drain and refill anyway, then I'd say drain first, fill last, with your r&r in between. What would be the point in doing otherwise?

Here's the bigger question, though:

You're chasing a rear main seal and a squealing t/o bearing. I hate to ask if you've read-up on the IMS for these motors?

I'm not an IMS doom-sayer, like some others. However: it might make sense to replace the IMS while you're in there looking at it.

Just a thought.



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Yes, I am quite familiar with the IMSB issue(s). Just before I bought the car it had ~$6,000 worth of work at a reputable indy shop in Ohio including a new IMS, RMS, clutch, flywheel, etc. Unfortunately the car was in a minor accident almost immediately after that (drivers-side door needed replaced, but no other damage - great for me, but I feel for the previous owner!) which is how I came to buy it.

I'm not 100% convinced that the RMS is the leaking issue, but I have other motivations for dropping the transmission: a) clutch squeal is really starting to annoy me, b) I need a reason to use my new lift! and c) the transmission is caked in oil and grime from previous oil leaks and the current. In the 2 years I've owned the car I've only driven it ~3,000 miles so there's little reason to replace the clutch while I'm in there IMO, it's basically brand new.

Part of that large service was replacing the AOS and oil fill tube, which I presume was leaking, but the back of the fill tube wasn't quite clipped on correctly leading to more oil on top of the engine as I've owned the car. I have a very slow drip/leak from where the bell housing meets the engine, and removing the transmission will make it a lot easier to clean off a lot of the old grime. There's just too much now to be able to easily determine the origin of the leak, as it could be coming from above as well.

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