Windows drop troubleshooting.

[PLP]

Here we go again...

I need to find out what I need to order to troubleshoot and fully resolve windows drop problem.

The symptoms are: sometimes they work, sometimes they do not.
There are days I pull the outside handle and the window drops, but when I release it - it goes up. Same from inside. It kind of like the door thinks it was not opened so the glass goes up. Most of the time - it will work OK on the drivers side. Passenger side - is the opposite. Only on very warm days it works, while on colder days it will not. Weird.

What I have tested so far are the switches in the door handles (both sides and both - inside and outside). The switches work just fine. No matter how little or how far I pull the handle - the circuit is interrupted correctly.

Windows opening and closing from the console switch works correctly. Automatically go up and down. No apparent problem there. Same with the roof - windows drop far to clear the roof operation.

They only do not go up after the procedure is finished. Is that also a problem?

I know there are more switches/microswitches, but I need to understand what else might be at fault.

I just want to order everything that possible might need to be replaced and replace what is really needed.

[elav]

I have a '98 but assuming the 2003 is similar - the windows dropping when you pull a door latch indicates that the micro switches for those handles are working as expected. If the window doesn't stay down, that is an indication that the door latch is faulty (e.g. it isn't reporting the correct state of that door). So I believe you need to replace that door latch.

The windows dropping for roof operation and not going back up after the top is dropped is normal.

[Outkasted]

Door latch would be the best place to start. That little switch in the latch gets clogged or broken. Very hard to replace just the switch but I have done it before.

[PLP]

Thank you guys. That's a good start!!

Any other switches that can be there?

And then, the door latch - while the switch might be not easy replaceable, is it repairable?

[Seal1968]

There's a VW latch hack on here somewhere to replace the faulty door latch.

Sorry, can't remember the guy's handle but it looked like a relatively straightforward replacement.

I think the VW latch is only $30 bucks or so too.

[Jgkram]

Jon has done a ton of innovative things like this and I believe he is the guy who's thread you are looking for. Search under the handle 78F350 and you should find the post somewhere. He may have even posted on youtube.

[Seal1968]

Yup...that's him! He's made some youtube videos, and updated his process too.

[elav]

Originally Posted by PLP

Thank you guys. That's a good start!!

Any other switches that can be there?

And then, the door latch - while the switch might be not easy replaceable, is it repairable?

There are separate micro switches for each door handle (inner and outer) and then the door latch. Those are the main components within each door. BTW, you are getting good advice around 78F350's VW door hack. With this being the passenger door, you don't have to worry about the key functions working, so pretty straightforward.

[PLP]

Yeah, I found the part number: 8N1 837 016 and after a quick search I discovered they latch is common with VW, so not so expensive.

I will get to it and see what I can fix.

[78F350]

I don't think I still have that video on YouTube, but I can re-post it if it would be helpful to see the procedure. What I eventually found out with the VW latches is that not all of them have the correct circuitry for the door locks to function correctly. Most recently what I have done for repairs is to use the mechanical part of the new VW latch with the electronics of the old Porsche latch. Often the solder connections in the Porsche part are cracked, so it's good to re-flow the solder while you are in there.

[PLP]

Originally Posted by 78F350

I don't think I still have that video on YouTube, but I can re-post it if it would be helpful to see the procedure.

Definitely might help.
Thanks a lot in advance.

[78F350]

I found my original content and added info that the VW latches may not have the same electronic lock functions.
Here's the remove and install process:



And here's a very well made video of repairing the latch itself:

[78F350]

I was correcting some of the links to my old version of the video and found this post which may also be helpful.

Originally Posted by 78F350

I usually work from within the door, but what Zordrack says will work.
Here's some pics.

With the door panel removed, looking back at the door handle from the inside:


Handle and latch close, but not connected:



As they sit within the door when installed:



The forum host, Pelican Parts, has some good instructions. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm

Got it figured out now?

[elav]

78F350 - I can see in your photos the "plastic nut" that holds the blade into the key lock assembly. The fastener fell out on my car and I replaced it with a cotter pin, installed it and then found the missing fastener (I did keep the plastic nut and fastener - if I'm ever in there again).

Now that you have found your videos I want to buy the VW part and repair my original latches to have spares (as I have already bought new ones from Porsche).

[elgyqc]

You might have a look at this, it has some lessons from my experience.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/78235-door-window-not-dropping-properly-%96-troubleshooting-check-list.html
I have to open up the door again because the window is no longer dropping at all.

[jaykay]

Out of the blue I have the driver side window not wanting to move fully away from the top upon pulling the handle. The window moves or wants to but just budges and stops.

So would it be correct to assume something might be jamming or a linkage might be damaged such that it is not giving enough motion and contact to whatever mircoswitch that runs the window.

All other functions are fine.

[78F350]

If it moves when it should, but does not move enough it is most likely slack in the regulator cable or less likely play in the motor mechanism. There's some threads about it and some people have used bicycle cable adjusters to take the slack out.
I'd pull the door panel off and get a look at exactly what's happening before buying parts.

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/25704-window-regulator-permanent-fix-stretched-cable-4.html

[jaykay]

Thanks, for the info! I will time the actuation noise against the passenger side to have some level of confidence it is a loss of motion on the window.......yeah I was really hoping there was something else not obvious that would eliminate door disassembly; really dont want to break anything or go in there with the airbag lurking. Are there any good disassembly guides.....I will go through and do a search on here.

Unfortunately the pictures for the fix are now gone from the thread....ugh!

Just finished power locks/latches on a Wrangler and it was fairly grueling due to the time pressure I had....I did brake a few clips...

[jaykay]

Yeah seems pretty clear that the motor runs for the time it should but that is no longer translated to window motion.

This would mean a window regulating linkage problem to me......and door disassembly

[78F350]

Originally Posted by jaykay

... This would mean a window regulating linkage problem to me......and door disassembly

Here's a link to the Tech Article for regulator replacement.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm