Best Model Years To Buy?

[Geof3]

Honestly, focusing on the IMS is probably not the best choice. Should it be part of the discussion? Sure, but not necessarily a deal killer. The odds are stacked WAY higher it will never be an issue than it will be an issue. If you can find one with it done, good. But don’t necessarily walk away from a good car just because it hasn’t been done. If you have a thorough PPI done and it comes out good then you are way ahead of the game. There are plenty of other things on these aging cars to consider, again not deal killers, but things to be aware of. The search for the ‘one’ is half the fun. Good luck!

[itsnotanova]

Originally Posted by Geof3

Honestly, focusing on the IMS is probably not the best choice. Should it be part of the discussion? Sure, but not necessarily a deal killer. The odds are stacked WAY higher it will never be an issue than it will be an issue. If you can find one with it done, good. But don’t necessarily walk away from a good car just because it hasn’t been done. If you have a thorough PPI done and it comes out good then you are way ahead of the game. There are plenty of other things on these aging cars to consider, again not deal killers, but things to be aware of. The search for the ‘one’ is half the fun. Good luck!

I agree! I'm just speaking from my experience but I've seen more engine problems with the 2000 and 2003+ than the other years. 2000 loves to crack heads and 03+ drop valves. I've also seen a lot of sludge build up on the 3 chain motors. I've never heard anyone else say that , but that's what I've come across. Every year has it pros and cons. I'd focus on the car and not the year. I also think you should be open to a 97-04 base. The only 986 I suggest not buying is the base 97-02 with the tiptronic. S and 03+ tiptronics came with larger cooling tubes and that seems to really help with their durability.

[BoxMann]

Originally Posted by Geof3

Honestly, focusing on the IMS is probably not the best choice. Should it be part of the discussion? Sure, but not necessarily a deal killer. The odds are stacked WAY higher it will never be an issue than it will be an issue. If you can find one with it done, good. But don’t necessarily walk away from a good car just because it hasn’t been done. If you have a thorough PPI done and it comes out good then you are way ahead of the game. There are plenty of other things on these aging cars to consider, again not deal killers, but things to be aware of. The search for the ‘one’ is half the fun. Good luck!

Just to be clear, and perhaps I wasn't, my mindset about this is exactly the way you expressed it: the IMSB should be part of the discussion, but not necessarily a deal-killer. As I said in my OP, on the 986 for $3,000 I can get the clutch/RMS/IMSB replaced and the problem and concern disappears. Cars with a replaced IMSB seem to be selling for a bit more, roughly $1,000 - $2,000 I would estimate. Not saying I would definitely replace the IMSB if I bought one with an original bearing, I might or might not. Would depend on the car's history, oil analysis, etc. But if I needed a clutch, I think I definitely would then.