Issues with Retrofit Projector HID Lights!

[Nine8Six]

This might be of interest, John

Post #2604

http://986forum.com/forums/499066-post2605.html

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by Nine8Six

This might be of interest, John

Post #2604

http://986forum.com/forums/499066-post2605.html

Thanks! I will look into getting one.

[dghii]

Again, you can take your switch apart and clean the contacts. I've done it successfully. Pulled it apart last October and its still working.

[jpc763]

Originally Posted by dghii

Again, you can take your switch apart and clean the contacts. I've done it successfully. Pulled it apart last October and its still working.

I plan to do that thin week.

[jpc763]

UPDATE: Problem Solved!!!!

I purchased a switch from another member who was converting his box to a race car. I installed it and it works perfect!

So I am interested in taking the old switch apart to see what is broken. How do I get it apart?

Thanks for all of the help here. I was able to fix this problem for $30. It would have cost hundreds to take it to the shop to get it fixed!

John

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by jpc763

UPDATE: Problem Solved!!!!

I purchased a switch from another member who was converting his box to a race car. I installed it and it works perfect!

So I am interested in taking the old switch apart to see what is broken. How do I get it apart?

Thanks for all of the help here. I was able to fix this problem for $30. It would have cost hundreds to take it to the shop to get it fixed!

John

Not joking, soak it into a jar of pure acetone and shake it good. Repeat and let evaporate. That should etch out the dirt and oxidation layer off the contacts just enough that it can be re-used for a few more amps deliveries. Not for very long normally...

Still worth changing and tossing the old one in the bin

(wow $30, lucky bud)

[Nine8Six]

Best I can find to illustrate. Shall you want to get into a fight with the (miniature) tabs. Not easy but somehow doable with patience.

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by jpc763

UPDATE: Problem Solved!!!!

I purchased a switch from another member who was converting his box to a race car. I installed it and it works perfect!

Thanks for the feedback.

Still don't understand if there is no relay to switch the headlamps. Because if there is a relay, why is that switch so weak. And if there is no relay, it's no wonder that the switch is killed over time.

Originally Posted by jpc763

So I am interested in taking the old switch apart to see what is broken. How do I get it apart?

Think the picture of Nine8Six says all.

Regards, Markus

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Thanks for the feedback.

Still don't understand if there is no relay to switch the headlamps. Because if there is a relay, why is that switch so weak. And if there is no relay, it's no wonder that the switch is killed over time.

Switch is capable of great current, this is some heavy duty and thick copper. I bet it is good quality copper also lolll (read conductive). The problem is the 'mini' conn pads (see grab below). Slight little bit of dirt between and the contact will be weak, you'll get intermittent current flow, and eventually the current will just avoid that route all together lolll. Oxidation as all/any other connectors also can be nasty (not talking about corrosion yet).

Not a cheap switch unfortunately. Ign switch is a worst problem maker I read many times now :/

[Smallblock454]

Thanks nine8six, now i understand the problem.

Regards, Markus

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Thanks nine8six, now i understand the problem.

Regards, Markus

dunno Markus, can't see anything going wrong other than one or more of these little pads (those aren't fixed points, prone to oxi, vibration, etc). Can't speak science zero null tests what do I know

Who cares now, there light again!

[Smallblock454]

Hi nine8six,

well i did again a research, but couldn't find a relay for the main headlights in the wiring circuit or elsewhere.

And if that is the truth, than i understand the design of the switch. But that also means that this switch will be toasted over time, because it depends on how fast you use it and how much ampere it had to switch. A relay is a much better switch, because on and off is within milliseconds and it can easily be replaced. Also if you use hid headlights that might toast the switch much faster.

So if anybody know if there is a headlamp relay in the car, please let me know where it sits.

Thanks & regards, Markus

[Nine8Six]

As much as you’d possibly hope for Porsche to fail under your radar, they are not fools, I reassure you, Markus!

Their headlight design is ported onto a single circuit and is protected as you’d expect it – meaning your skinny little 15amp fuse is going to smoke light years before your main switch. Worst case scenario; you’d need to replace the fuse twice more often than your mysterious dash switch (or your ‘relays’ for whatever reason you’d need those for?!).

Relays as I understand their purposes are used for controlled signals, meaning you need two or more points to require a relay (your flashers for instance). Perhaps I didn’t understand your question but slowly starting to understand the point you are trying to make. (duuh me loll)

[Smallblock454]

Hi nine8six,

well, in general modern cars have "ECU's" (Steuergerät is the german term for that) for light. That means there is not always a physical relay for headlight switching, but an electronic circuit with power transistors. That also means that you can control how to switch something (ampere, load, soft start, etc.). I can't find something like that in the 986 circuit diagrams. There is just a bulb, a simple switch and a fuse.

I understand how the fuses work. But from an electronic point of view that is not near a perfect or modern solution. So under some circumstances this system will really wear and fail over time.

just my 2 cents, because i don't know better.

Regards, Markus

[Nine8Six]

Markus, ECU stands for Engine Control Unit buddy.

Modern cars are equipped with what’s known as canbus network. Primary function is you don’t necessarily need to have terminating points hardwired to a switching device anymore for those items to be able to interact with each other’s. The core circuitry and protection however remains as off today, more or less the same primitive one as the one installed in your bathroom, or your office. Less the sensor and central management provided by the CAN, of course. (CAN as in Controller Area Network, Markus)

There are many great write-up online RE canbus, the advantages of HID over old halogen, their power savings, efficiency, etc. Suggest you to take some time to get familiar. Something tells me you'll want to upgrade your halogen to at least Litronics, although not all bi-xenon, still a smart upgrade lolll

I'm out Markus sorry, no offense bud

[Smallblock454]

Hi nine8six,

no need to get out of the discussion. I'm still here. You can't offend me, because i'm the guy who knows nothing and is always willing to learn something new. Just want to understand things. And if somebody needs infos i try to help the best i can. That's all.

I used the dictionary to translate the german term "Steuergerät" and the dictionary did translate it to ECU as Electronic Control Unit. Sorry for that.

And yes, i have often problems to translate everything i'm thinking about to an understandable english. Especially when it comes to technical terms. Trying to get better, but it's not always that easy. Sorry if there was something misleading.

If i'm talking about Lichtsteuergeräte (electronic control units for light) i'm talking about control unit from the same time. For example Mercedes used such control units, but the also use hardware relays for headlamp switching. And yes these are CAN-bus systems.

And no, my car has OEM-Litronics. So i don't need an upgrade. But my car has a problem with one Litronic headlamp that i couldn't solve. Changed the Litronic hid bulb, switched the ballast from one side to the other, checked all connections – but have the problem that the left bulb sometimes turns off if i drive over bumps. If i switch on the headlight again, the Litronic headlamp turns on immediately. So there must be a bad connection somewhere or maybe it's the light switch.

That was why i asked for relays and the light switch.

Regards from Germany,
Markus

[Nine8Six]

Your English can't sux more than mine My Mandarin speaking is near perfect however, then include my native French and you get Scottish mixed with Norwegian English out lolll

Didn't know you had an issue with your own light, sorry bud. Link me up if you have a dedicated thread.

Litronics goes off on bumps = bad connection/connector.

If really there are no indication visually of a bad connector and the circuit have continuity while car parked, then a safe and quick alternative is to fabricate yourself a very bright 12v test light with extra long leads (so you can have it in-car) and hook it up to various stage of your headlight +/- circuit.

Have that test light next to you in the car and go back to the bump that normally take out your Lit Markus.

If you suspect the car's circuit start at the fuse. If you suspect the Litronic unit itself, then start at the headlight connector pins. That way you'll be able to identity which side the problem is coming from. Then take it from there.

You may find out that the electronics gets weak with time in the litronic unit itself Due to heat-cycles and vibrations (weaken conn, un-tighten connectors, etc). If original from factory then I wouldn't rule this out too quick - they are old. The fact that only the left side is affected leads me to believe it is the litronic headlamp itself or the connectors anywhere between the fuse and the headlamp.

A faulty light switch would cancel both your litronics

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by Nine8Six

A faulty light switch would cancel both your litronics

Thanks for that very helpful information. I couldn't see it in the wiring diagram.

Had inspected both Litronic units, but couldn't find remarkable differences. Everything is tight, no weak contacts, no broken or half broken cables or sign of burn or charred. So it seems i have to look for bad connections in the harness from the headlamp to the fuse box and all connectors within - which is a PITA.

I think your english is much better than mine. Not to mention that i find mandarin very funny and understand nothing and my french does only work if i communicate mostly with gestures and hand signs.

A+ Markus

[Nine8Six]

"major" PITA, yes :/

Try testing the car (& those bumps) with someone else's litronic installed. If you don't know anyone with the same litronic, try your Porsche dealer who I'm sure could arrange this for you as they did for some here in Shanghai. They are normally quite kind and useful in difficult circumstances like yours (they are not all crooks as many thinks).

I'd be glad to hear that you just need to swap the headlight unit and save yourself the troubleshooting work. Not cheap I know but could worth every hours wasted - shall the problem be the litronic.

Luck there