^^^^Now that is some patience! Nice job :cheers:

Installed a set of OE carbon fiber doorsill covers. :)

Finished changing out all four O2 sensors. Seems to have worked. Will drive some more to confirm.

Pretty straight forward job. But one O2 sensors needed a few days of PB blaster soaking, heat application and general abuse to finnaly break free.

I used the Bosch sensors where you reuse the factory harness. Save a pretty generous amount of money doing so as well. And happy to report they work fine. In case anyone is wondering.

Reglued leather trim on door, looks great! Dash will be MUCH tougher. The other boxster didn’t have the option, so this was a first.

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Those emblems look great. You must be a patient person!

Happened to notice the mileage while I was sitting at a traffic light today.
This Boxster has proven to be a great value and a fun toy. Not nearly as many miles as some people, but I'm expecting to get many more! :)
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Put in a new battery - had to order a new vent hose elbow. The previous battery had a different type.

I've payed a big bill and i'm pissed.

This was done by an indy Porsche workshop:
- Clutch, DMF, pressure plate, release bearing, spring clutch pedal
- IMS bearing and crankshaft seal
- Water pump, thermostate and coolant fluid change
- Front engine mount
- Engine oil change and filter
- Brake pads front and rear (Brembo) and damping plates
- Brake fluid change
- Bearings stabilizer front and rear

Work and materials were around 4K € / 4,7K USD.

Now the whole car is vibrating starting from light engine load. I can feel it in the centre console, clutch pedal and gas pedal. Vibrations are caused by the engine. If i press the cutch the vibrations go away immediately.

If i shut down the engine it makes a clonk sound. It didn't do that before the repair.

The exhaust heat shields or something that sounds exactly the same rattles.

And by the way the old IMS bearing (single row) was in perfect condition at 100k Km (62k miles). Both seals were 100% OK, bearing has absolutely no play.

IMS bearing was replaced by an open roller bearing. Not shure if that was a good decision.

So I went to roll up my window today, and noises happened but no window. :(

The little cable had come unfettered. I worked it back in but I wasn't satisfied with the tension that the cable had.

So I went to "rednecking". I had on hand some tensioners from a Jeep Cherokee (I had catabolized a customer's old regulator when I replaced his; I kept them because they seemed useful). Glad I saved them. Slapped them on the Porsche cable and twisted a spring around the tensioner and called it good. :D

Tighter than a virgin, um, well you know the thing. LOL

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..........

Qingdao, I like your solution. I'm going to have to rummage around my local scrapyard to see if I can find a couple of those for my car. Both of my windows started to not drop last week when the smoke was at its worst. I'm a little tired of pushing my window down that quarter inch before closing my door with the top up.

Thanks,
Scott

No more vibrations @ 3000rpm
 

Replaced spark plugs, new spark plug tubes, installed new HT coil packs, and did an oil and filter change. Now she purrs with no rumble at at 3000 rpm. Hopefully the oil leak goes away too with the new spark plug tubes. Will find out tomorrow morning, to see if there is a spot on the floor at the right side by the tire. :cheers:

I hope that gets sorted before anything is damaged!

Hmmm... I still have the light rumble on 3000rpm after fixing the vibrations on the same rpm by swapping engine and transmission mounts.
Also, have changed the plugs, plug tubes, oil & filter, but not the coils. Could it be that the coilpacks would be reason for my car's rumble?
Car is 2001 2.7 Boxster.

These cars make a rumbling sound right at 3,000 rpm, due to a resonance in the engine. Mine does it, but I only hear it while in the lower gears where the road noise is lower.

Pilot4fn, The coil packs can definitely be one of the causes. My car is a 2001 S with 106000 miles, I did everything you have done as well. I got help from this forum, the guys here know their stuff. Coil packs are one of the items that was highly recommended to fix this problem. I've only put in about 50 miles since doing this service, but from what I noticed, the rumble is gone. Also, the Pelican site says to change the spark plugs every 10000 miles, so if you've got more than that on plugs you currently have, I would change both of them at the same time. Your already in there, so why not. I had over 20k miles on the plugs and when I took them out, the tips were almost gone. I replaced the coil packs about 8k miles ago with a set my friend gave me, he said they were only about 30k on them. I think the combination of not changing the spark plugs and using old coil packs may have been my issue. I'm not gonna mess around with used ignition parts anymore. LOL. Good Luck.

Seriously? 10K?? I get well over 100K on my Chrysler and Subaru spark plugs!

psh lightweights.

I do about 5 k on my RX7; then I torch them and brush off the carbon build up.


Piolet4fn: do you have any CELs? Do you have any pending CELs?

Sounds like exactly what is with my car has. Light rumble but it's annoying, since speeds I drive here is fairly much on close to 3000rpm. I'd like to think that Porsche cars would run smooth thru out the rpm - at least my two previous ones were (1986 944 and 1985 Carrera 3.2).

I changed the plugs approx 5000miles ago and the current plugs condition is very good. Car runs awesome besides the light rumbele at 3000rpm.

No CEL's of any kind of, not even pending ones. I have Durametric and that can't find any issues - at least so far.

Also, regardless of the weather (dry and sunny, humid, misty, heavy rain, etc.) car runs real well. My understanding is that if coilspacks are going bad, most of the time it would be related to cracks on the coilpacks and cause problems especially on the wet weather driving conditions.

Do you mean the exhaust resonance at around 3.000 rpm or are there real vibrations somwhere in the cabin or stearing or somewhere else noticable?

What engine mounts did you use? The original Porsche front mounts have a new design. This mount might cause the problem with vibrations in my car. But my vibrations are in every rpm range.

After driving it a little more yesterday, the rumble may still be there, especially when I downshift to lower gears, it is noticeably less rumbling than before though.

The rumble is evident especially when I lift the gas above 3000rpm for lowering the car speed - the at 3000rpm it shows up. Only very seldom it is so strong that I could call it a shaking, but it is not on the steering only. It's rather on the car body, so I'd expect it to came from engine since the speed of the car has nothing to do with it - happens with every gear at same rpm.

Ordered the engina mount from design911uk and it says on the receipt that "This product supersedes Porsche's old part numbers: 98737502304"

Transmission mounts are branded 'Rein' that has been commented to be a good choice on few of the Porsche forums I read.

Couple of thoughts; do you have a tire delaminating? tire out of balance? loose half shaft/bad bearing? when was your last four wheel alignment?

I doubt that this could be tire or driveshaft or bearing issue, since it shows up only at 3000rpm with all gears (different speeds, but not all the time on any speed).
Alignment was done last summer (no driving on the winther) and in my opinion the issue with bad alignment would show in all speeds or just one certain speed (for example 75 mph).
Mystery continues...

Saw this at Autozone yesterday, they wanted $28 or so. I am probably going to buy it since my first and only oil change was a splash fest of epic proportions.

Its made by Garageboss and called "The Reacher."

Anyone have it?

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/oil-drain-pan/garage-boss-height-adjustable-drain-pan/721214_0_0?spps.s=3491&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:10000 00:PER:71700000060668095&gclid=CjwKCAjwh7H7BRBBEiw APXjadlHkI-_rLCOZ6x3l7EOjISevko0tfXIArzSccjyYItayVwTAhYTrVhoC mKsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

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I want a rumble at anything above 3000rpm! If I don't get that growl or famous boxer motor rumble something is wrong.

The motor and exhaust noise is what makes these cars notoriously fun, stop worrying and just drive it!

Today I installed a SmartTop relay that I got a really great deal on a few months ago. It works like a charm!

The stuff really gushes out don't it?? :eek:

I don't suppose you've bought/tried this product yet? I would be a little concerned that the depth of the funnel wouldn't suffice to catch/corral that initial blast of oil when the plug first comes out.

I just took an empty plastic gallon milk jug and cut out the bottom. Flip it over and insert the jug opening (no cap!) into the hole in the middle of the oil collection unit. You have to learn how to aim a little when you go to pull the oil plug, but after the first time or two I hardly lose a drop anymore. I also drilled multiple 1/2" holes in the collection surface of the drain pan—to collect the oil that splashes out of the plastic jug (there's usually at least a little). And it's free!

Not yet purchased.

I also have a West Marine oil extractor (6.9 qt) and thought about sucking out a majority of the oil the next go around before I pull the plug.

I do like the milk jug trick and its priced right.

I am only about 1100 miles on this oil, so I have no idea when I will hit 3k and do another change. Maybe in the mean time another member can be our guinea pig and try this thing out???

Why don't you guys just put the oil catch can on a cinder block?

I mean I know lots of you guys on here are engineers, but sometimes you don't need a special tool to raise your oil catch can up 6 inchs. :cheers:

Well, two problems with that. One, with the way the oil (9 qts!) comes gushing out when the plug is first pulled, having the catch pan close isn't necessarily enough. You have to be able to surround the flow, to contain it. That's where the milk jug has worked great for me. (At roughly a full gallon, it holds almost 1/2 the entire contents of the oil pan.)

Secondly, by elevating the catch pan enough to do any good you eliminate your working space. There's not enough of a gap to easily reach and remove the drain plug. That's my theory anyway...and I'm sticking with it :D

Drove it home from the airport. Was parked there for a week while I was in the Yukon for work. Aaaaaaaaand, the window dropped 1/2 way down and would not roll up.

It has never worked since I bought it, except the 1/2" drop when I lift the door handle (both inside and outside). It does not drop when I use the roof and they dont roll down when I use the console switches. Before you ask, yes, my CLU is messed up and I need to get that fixed. It's on the list!

But having it drop makes me think there are signs of life? Perhaps the switch operation is not tried to the CLU as I originally thought. Maybe I need to look into something else........more fun ahead.

I had some issue on my right side door window and lock. The problem was that with previous owner there had had some access of water in to the doorway and water had also somehow entered in to the 9-pin wireing harness connector that connects to the door latch. I opened the connector, cleaned all contact pins with electronic cleaner, let it dry real well and put it back together - did not need to open the latch mechanism. All window problems has been gone now roughly 3 months - regardless of some major rain storm weather driving (Boxster is my daily driver during summer).

Did the oil and filter change - filter is still super clean😎

While changing the oli, I did change also the Oil Pressure Relief Valve to the updated version from Porsche.

The short rattle at the start up is pretty much all gone now and can be heard only fraction of the time compared to the before the OPRV change. The updated part has different shape piston and slightly longer spring. This should help on keeping the oil pressure bit higher also on low rpm. Also I feel that the engine runs better and is a bit more responsive.
Old piston was slightly worn one side at the bottom skirt and also from top on same side. Parts cost was 25€, took addittional 10 minutes time to change while changing oil and what I can see from today's experience, it was money well spent 👌

On photos, first is the old OPRV, second is the new OPRV and lastly the filter cut open :dance:
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We put a blue frunk lid and some white duct tape on 'Red', then drove around town with a bunch of strangers honking the horn. It was fun.

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😁

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Thats the paint scheme I shoulda gone with.... My 4.3 woulda been right at home in it.


Love it even if its got a boxer engine.

Love the car, not the bumper stickers and flags...:barf:

But hey, it's a free country and you're entitled to your own cultive mentality! :D:D

Yesterday we went on a day-long scenic tour of North-Central PA. The nearly 400-mile trip was organized by the local PCA. Great time!http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1601238712.jpg
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Just completed wiring up the turn signal/side marker mod. :dance: