99 stock strut/coilover help

[99Roadster]

I work on all my own vehicles but that only means I have worked on USA made vehicles and this is my first German made vehicle for me that is if you don't include back in the 60's & 70's alot of my friends had VW bugs but all I ever did was ride in then and not work on then.

I'm thinking of going coilover instead of getting a Koni shock then buying all the other ancillary parts so that means buying a new shock all new small parts and putting that all together with a 20 year old coil spring.....And I'm still going to end up with a non-adjustable strut.....If I can find me a coilover for around 350 to 400 I think that is the direction I might go......Tell me what you think about this brilliant idea of mine ?

I have a question for you concerning the rear strut....Which is the best way to replace it by taking off that axle nut(The one with the 340 ft-lbs of torque) or leaving it alone and pulling out the CV unit from the transmission ?

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by 99Roadster

I have a question for you concerning the rear strut....Which is the best way to replace it by taking off that axle nut(The one with the 340 ft-lbs of torque) or leaving it alone and pulling out the CV unit from the transmission ?

The first time I did a suspension I took this axle nut off because I was also doing wheel bearings.

Every other time I used a custom spring compressor that I borrowed from a friend, that let me take out the rear struts without having to remove the axle nut or remove the LCA. A regular spring compressor may work especially if your original suspension is blown out and easy to compress once the spring is compressed. I think there may be a few videos out there showing shortcuts.

One I never got a chance to try would be removing the sheet metal brace and the two diagonal supports (figure 1 here), and then loosening the inner LCA, with that brace and the supports out of the way I bet that would let the LCA drop down pretty far and the strut top might slide right out

[berni29]

Hi

I changed all four of mine (130k miles) for a low mile ebay set (originals). I tested them against the ones I removed and they were significantly stronger. I already had the inner CV joints undone for the gearbox removal, so at the rear just dropped the subframes (just 2 bolts). The real challenge when I did mine was undoing the pinch bolts. Calliper bolts were also a pain with one snapping.

I would keep away from any suspension harder than standard. The standard car is jut not a stiff enough platform IMHO.

Best of luck

Berni

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by steved0x

The first time I did a suspension I took this axle nut off because I was also doing wheel bearings.

Every other time I used a custom spring compressor that I borrowed from a friend, that let me take out the rear struts without having to remove the axle nut or remove the LCA. A regular spring compressor may work especially if your original suspension is blown out and easy to compress once the spring is compressed. I think there may be a few videos out there showing shortcuts.

One I never got a chance to try would be removing the sheet metal brace and the two diagonal supports (figure 1 here), and then loosening the inner LCA, with that brace and the supports out of the way I bet that would let the LCA drop down pretty far and the strut top might slide right out

no need to remove the braces...inner control arm, toe in ball joint and the fork connection to the LCA gave me the clearance to remove and replace strut. I did loosen the axle nut and floated the shaft back a few inches...needed that.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by 99Roadster

I work on all my own vehicles but that only means I have worked on USA made vehicles and this is my first German made vehicle for me that is if you don't include back in the 60's & 70's alot of my friends had VW bugs but all I ever did was ride in then and not work on then.

I'm thinking of going coilover instead of getting a Koni shock then buying all the other ancillary parts so that means buying a new shock all new small parts and putting that all together with a 20 year old coil spring.....And I'm still going to end up with a non-adjustable strut.....If I can find me a coilover for around 350 to 400 I think that is the direction I might go......Tell me what you think about this brilliant idea of mine ?

I have a question for you concerning the rear strut....Which is the best way to replace it by taking off that axle nut(The one with the 340 ft-lbs of torque) or leaving it alone and pulling out the CV unit from the transmission ?

Taking off the shaft on the transmission side is aggravating, and getting it back on it too. the exhaust is in the way and you need turn the shafts several times etc. then you need to clean the bolts really good, loctite, clean grease from the bolt holes, turn the shafts multiple times to cross torque em up, check them for loosening up for a couple of months, etc. etc. its a PIA.
The axle nut is easier...and you dont have to remove it...just loosen it, then the toe in arm from the ball joint and the lower control arm (camber adjustment side on frame), the fork side of the forward link where it attached to the lower control arm and of course the drop link since it holds the strut in. Mark your camber placement and the wheel will be close when your done and match it back up. I didnt even remove the caliper on the rear and had enough to remove the stock strut and replace with a coilover. Loosely attach new strut up top, align wheel carrier and gently coax everything back using a floorjack. I guess a spring compressor could help a little, but I didnt need it.
first side took 1.5 hours, the second was 30 minutes.
one problem you might have is the axle stuck in the hub, it should have been coated in a good copper anti-seize, but that doesnt always happen. Dont beat your axle with a hammer, but make sure you have a HUGE drift pin and give it some solid smacks with a 5lb sledgehammer if its stuck. leave the nut on so it doesnt slip and mess up the threads. Then maybe get some anti-seize on it for next time.
coilovers for 400 is false economy, if you can even find them. The right coil for your type of driving is critical and making sure its a quality part is important also.
Godspeed has a set for 800, most are in the 1200 range (and up, way up). Do your research and choose accordingly. I went with yellowspeed and im very happy, but they are brand new.