Cam Timing off 2002 Boxster S

[Fchotika]

Hello, thank you for sharing. I am in the middle of the cam pad replacement too. Prior to tear down I was at -7 and -8. Pads were worn on both side at -8 bank 2.

Did you do this with the engine in? I removed mine for better access but dread having installed it all back trying to snake in adjust cam positions again.

[Silber]

Originally Posted by Fchotika

Hello, thank you for sharing. I am in the middle of the cam pad replacement too. Prior to tear down I was at -7 and -8. Pads were worn on both side at -8 bank 2.

Did you do this with the engine in? I removed mine for better access but dread having installed it all back trying to snake in adjust cam positions again.

Prior to tear down I was at -11-12 or so both sides, very worn!

I did it with the engine in, wasn't too bad. You just have to unbolt the front motor mount (with engine on a jack) and drop the front of the engine a few inches, then all cam cover bolts are accessible. That was to remove the cams, adjusting cams only you don't even have to loosen the mount and lower the front of the motor, everything is reachable without issue both sides. This is assuming you have the SIR cam timing tool, the Porsche style won't fit onto the heads with the engine in the car.

You should be able to adjust the cams with the engine out of the car just fine, I have run into something unusual, I don't think most people need to touch the cams after following proper timing procedures after the pad replace. Only suggestion I have there is to time the cams before you put the cover on, and after. The cams are much easier to move when the cover isn't on there, then when you time with the cover on you are basically checking that nothing moved on assembly.

regards,

Silber

[Boxtar]

Silber,
I’ve got the cams and the cam adjusters out of the car at the moment, and I’m having a little trouble getting everything together before it goes back in the car (see post above). The adjuster is so tight that it jams the cam sprockets against the side of the adjuster. Can’t roll the chain on the cams, either.

When you go to put the cams back into the head, do you leave the actuator compressed and release compression once installed (per 386fix video on YouTube) or do you release the pressure on the actuator beforehand, on the bench (per pelican instructions)? Certainly the latter is not working for me!

Thanks,
Andrew.
‘02 S

[P_Carfahrer]

Originally Posted by Boxtar

Silber,
I’ve got the cams and the cam adjusters out of the car at the moment, and I’m having a little trouble getting everything together before it goes back in the car (see post above). The adjuster is so tight that it jams the cam sprockets against the side of the adjuster. Can’t roll the chain on the cams, either.

When you go to put the cams back into the head, do you leave the actuator compressed and release compression once installed (per 386fix video on YouTube) or do you release the pressure on the actuator beforehand, on the bench (per pelican instructions)? Certainly the latter is not working for me!

Thanks,
Andrew.
‘02 S

Is the solenoid compressed all the way? Getting the solenoid reinstalled between the sprockets is the biggest issue I had doing this job. It took multiple attempts to get it and there was a trick to it once I got it. Can't remember what it was though.

I would uncompress the solenoid when you get it between the sprockets and the chain timed with the mark so when you go to re-install it in the head you don't fight timing slipping because the chain is not under tension.