Cam Timing off 2002 Boxster S
 

Took out cams, replaced variocam adjuster rails, reinstalled cams bank 1 then bank2.

Running the car after the repair, bank1 is off -7 degrees, bank2 is perfect. Car idles great though.

I counted the teeth on both banks exactly the same. i thought i got it right, but i’m suspecting the intake cam bank 1 is 1 tooth off. Will try to re-time bank 1 saturday or sunday, if timing tool fits in fine, then it has to be one tooth off.

I guess my question is if the cam tool fits, but intake is off, is there any other explanation? I’m assuming 7 degrees would be an obvoious deviation of the exhaust cam slot from parallel, like not even close. If it just bad cam timing it should be very obvious?

Silber

Pulled things apart to re-time the cams, looks like i had indeed just timed a bit off, not assembled off a tooth. I've got it right now I think, going to put it back together and verify with Duramteric tonight or tomorrow.

How long did this job take start to finish. and could you install a more aggressive cam/cam's Thanks Frank

I'd say per side of the car for an amateur is about 7 hours to pull the cams and reinstall, so 14-15 hours total for both cams. With practice I think you could get that down to 4-5 per side.

now, my car:

actual angle on bank1 is 5-6 at cold idle, deviation blank.
Warm idle deviation is around 5, actual angle around 0.

At least its within spec now so I can calm down, but I still have to figure out what is happening. I want it down in normal range not just below out of tolerance.

I read on another site that actual angle measures the amount of variocam actuation happening, so if that is correct I have a bad VC actuator on bank1 possibly?

Any cam experts around that can set me straight?

regards,

Silber

Guessing there are no cam experts here, Or at least none willing to help.

Well, My current theory is that the Variocam actuator is sticking and not going all the way down. I tend to be pretty meticulous with mechanical things and I find it hard to believe I would’ve put it together a tooth off. Everybody makes mistakes but that’s a pretty big one.

So I guess my plan is to get a good used Variocam actuator (have you priced a new one, holy mackerel!) and put that in and double or triple count the links before assembly.

Regards,

Silber

Might be a stretched chain.

I bought a good (hopefully) used bank1 actuator.

since the numbers were good before I took it apart, i'm guessing the chain isn't stretched, but with a new one costing $20 I'm not going to take the chance, and will install a new one of those too.

Hoping to install these two parts in the next couple months, will update this thread once I am done.

silber

Hello, thank you for sharing. I am in the middle of the cam pad replacement too. Prior to tear down I was at -7 and -8. Pads were worn on both side at -8 bank 2.

Did you do this with the engine in? I removed mine for better access but dread having installed it all back trying to snake in adjust cam positions again.

Prior to tear down I was at -11-12 or so both sides, very worn!

I did it with the engine in, wasn't too bad. You just have to unbolt the front motor mount (with engine on a jack) and drop the front of the engine a few inches, then all cam cover bolts are accessible. That was to remove the cams, adjusting cams only you don't even have to loosen the mount and lower the front of the motor, everything is reachable without issue both sides. This is assuming you have the SIR cam timing tool, the Porsche style won't fit onto the heads with the engine in the car.

You should be able to adjust the cams with the engine out of the car just fine, I have run into something unusual, I don't think most people need to touch the cams after following proper timing procedures after the pad replace. Only suggestion I have there is to time the cams before you put the cover on, and after. The cams are much easier to move when the cover isn't on there, then when you time with the cover on you are basically checking that nothing moved on assembly.

regards,

Silber

Silber,
I’ve got the cams and the cam adjusters out of the car at the moment, and I’m having a little trouble getting everything together before it goes back in the car (see post above). The adjuster is so tight that it jams the cam sprockets against the side of the adjuster. Can’t roll the chain on the cams, either.

When you go to put the cams back into the head, do you leave the actuator compressed and release compression once installed (per 386fix video on YouTube) or do you release the pressure on the actuator beforehand, on the bench (per pelican instructions)? Certainly the latter is not working for me!

Thanks,
Andrew.
‘02 S

If I recall, i cut the cable tie off the car, then installed cams chain and adjuster as a cohesive unit.

Seems to have worked fine, think the problems I am having are unrelated to that item.

I would think if you’re more comfortable leaving the cable tie in place until after the cams are installed in the car, that would be fine too. I kind of liked having the cam adjuster sprung to hold the cams and chain in place so that nothing slips on installation.

I would say this one is personal preference but that’s just me, someone else may have a more valid reason why you should do it one way or the other.

Silber

Boxtar,
Sent you a PM with info.

Thanks! Much appreciated.

New data point, my theory is that my bank 1 variocam adjuster completely failed yesterday leaving me stranded.

It stuck in the full advance position is my guess. Car more or less would not run up to 3000 RPM, but over 3000 RPM ran perfectly. Multiple misfires below 3000 on all bank1 cylinders. Some googling confirmed my suspicion, that is a common symptom for a completely failed adjuster.

So, boxster is off the road till I get around to pulling the bank1 cam cover again.

regards,

Silber

Is the solenoid compressed all the way? Getting the solenoid reinstalled between the sprockets is the biggest issue I had doing this job. It took multiple attempts to get it and there was a trick to it once I got it. Can't remember what it was though.

I would uncompress the solenoid when you get it between the sprockets and the chain timed with the mark so when you go to re-install it in the head you don't fight timing slipping because the chain is not under tension.