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Old 09-05-2016, 03:18 PM   #1
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leaking valve cover repair on '07 CS

While replacing the water pump I was able to take a close look at the oil leak from the bank 1-3 valve cover and it s definitely growing, therefore I decided to fix it the right way.

However I have a couple of questions for the guys that do this kind of jobs regularly, someone like JFP..?

To remove the 1-3 valve cover, it seems that I will only need to lock the cams and remove the header for the 1-3 bank.

Therefore I will need to buy the two green cam plugs, and the exhaust gaskets (header to head and header to cat), is something else that I will need to remove or buy?

Thank you in advance!
Gilles
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:11 PM   #2
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You are going to need more than that. Pulling the valve cover requires the use of a cam holding tool (home brew version in the lower right of the photo, small drawing is the factory tool):



This and the caps need to be installed to hold the cams against the spring pressures while the cover is removed. Without these tools you risk breaking both cams when the cover is removed.
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Last edited by JFP in PA; 09-05-2016 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
You are going to need more than that. Pulling the valve cover requires the use of a cam holding tool (home brew version in the lower right of the photo, small drawing is the factory tool

This and the caps need to be installed to hold the cams against the spring pressures while the cover is removed. Without these tools you risk breaking both cams when the cover is removed.
JFP,
Yes, I was planning to use the cam locking tool before attempting to loose the bolts on the valve cover, but honestly never tough about using the center holding fixtures since I was planning on removing the covers, clean them thoroughly, applying a thin bead of sealant (Curil T..?) and reinstalling the covers right away.

Thank you for your comments!
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:26 AM   #4
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Anytime the cam covers come off, you have to use cam retention tools due to the spring loads trying to push the cams off their saddles. The cams are only cast iron and do not take well to flexing.
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Old 09-06-2016, 05:48 AM   #5
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Anytime the cam covers come off, you have to use cam retention tools due to the spring loads trying to push the cams off their saddles. The cams are only cast iron and do not take well to flexing.
Thank you JFP, it seems that I will be looking for the cam retention tools as well
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Old 11-15-2016, 11:43 AM   #6
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now is the time

Ok, now that my car is out of commission (without gearbox and complete suspension)

This is the time to take care of a pesky oil leak from the 1-3 bank, and without the gearbox and suspension I should have enough room to lower the engine a bit more to remove the cam cover.

The question for JFP: Do you know if I will be able to replace the seals on top of the lifter carrier (3..?) without removing the camshafts?

Also, I am trying to locate the tools to lock the cams at TDC and to hold them in place while removing the cam cover, hopefully I would be able to borrow them or rent them (So. Cal)

Any leads for the required special tools will be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Gilles
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Old 11-15-2016, 12:31 PM   #7
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While you are in there.....
look carefully for leaks from
1. the base of the oil/water cooler.
2.The p/s filler neck.- there are 2 'O' rings inside the stem of the neck and one on the cap.It is a bayonet- twist fitting .It may be a good idea to add a hose to the overflow nipple. 5.5mm hose.
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:06 PM   #8
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Not to be a pest... but if the cams are going to break based on spring loads, what's the prevent them from breaking after you get the valve cover/cam bearing cover off and before you install the bracing tools? If there was a risk of camshaft breakage, Porsche wouldn't have designed the engine this way since they wouldn't be able to assemble the engine without cams breaking.

With the engine set to the correct timing to ensure the middle cylinder isn't on intake or exhaust stroke, there should be enough support provided by the cam bearing adjacent to the drive sprockets (the one that isn't integrated into the cam cover) and the factory cam lock tool at the slotted end of the cam (not a home-brew tool that fits loose enough to allow the cams to lift out of their journals).

I was able to lower the back of the engine enough to get the 1-3 bank valve cover off. I disconnected the main air intake tube to the throttle body to prevent breaking it. This was with the suspension installed but the transmission removed.
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:10 PM   #9
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Why not try it and let us know how it works out ?
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:26 PM   #10
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It worked out great. As I mentioned I had the cam cover off. I suppose I should have clarified that I didn't use these support tools.

I wouldn't recommend anyone do anything that would result in damaging their stuff.
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Old 11-16-2016, 05:56 AM   #11
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B6T, thank you for your comments.

There are some oil seals (3..?) on top of the lifter carrier.

By any chance do you remember if you have enough room underneath the cams to replace the lifter carrier seals without removing the cams..?

Last edited by Gilles; 11-16-2016 at 02:15 PM.
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