Where do I go from here (IMS)

[Roger1965]

I thought about that but if my car is not a candidate for an IMS replacement is it worth dropping that kind of coin? Also I have read on other threads here that the CL doesn't come on until 12° deviation is that right? The pads themselves maybe cheap but the labor sounds like it would be north of $3000.

And then I still have the bearing to worry about

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Roger1965

I thought about that but if my car is not a candidate for an IMS replacement is it worth dropping that kind of coin?

If you replace the chain wear pads, the car will come back into spec and become a candidate for the retrofit. We see this all the time, nothing unusual.

[Roger1965]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

If you replace the chain wear pads, the car will come back into spec and become a candidate for the retrofit. We see this all the time, nothing unusual.

That's what I was thinking too. But I'm guessing that along with the IMS that would be a repair bill somewhere around $7000? Is that in the ballpark? I've been thinking about doing it I just can't really make up my mind

I feel kind of like a gambler trying to decide if I'm in too far to quit or if I should just cut my losses now

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Roger1965

That's what I was thinking too. But I'm guessing that along with the IMS that would be a repair bill somewhere around $7000? Is that in the ballpark? I've been thinking about doing it I just can't really make up my mind

I feel kind of like a gambler trying to decide if I'm in too far to quit or if I should just cut my losses now

The problem of owning one of these cars is that the resale price has dropped low, but the maintenance or engine replacement costs have not. You need to make a decision; either put the money into the car to fix what is wrong and prevent future catastrophic failure so you can enjoy it for as long as you please, or sell the car before the cam deviations become critical and move on.

We have customers that face that decision regularly. We just had a 2001 Boxster leave the shop after major upgrades (dual row IMS Solution, clutch, pressure plate, dual mass flywheel, throw out bearing, RMS, new AOS, plugs, new front brake air ducts, upgraded oil pump pressure spring and piston, etc., etc.) that all in cost a significant portion of the cars resale value. But the owner, who is also the original owner, loves the car and intends to keep it for a long time. Now he is facing years of ordinary maintence and problem free driving. It is all where your head is at.

[Roger1965]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

The problem of owning one of these cars is that the resale price has dropped low, but the maintenance or engine replacement costs have not. You need to make a decision; either put the money into the car to fix what is wrong and prevent future catastrophic failure so you can enjoy it for as long as you please, or sell the car before the cam deviations become critical and move on.

We have customers that face that decision regularly. We just had a 2001 Boxster leave the shop after major upgrades (dual row IMS Solution, clutch, pressure plate, dual mass flywheel, throw out bearing, RMS, new AOS, plugs, new front brake air ducts, upgraded oil pump pressure spring and piston, etc., etc.) that all in cost a significant portion of the cars resale value. But the owner, who is also the original owner, loves the car and intends to keep it for a long time. Now he is facing years of ordinary maintence and problem free driving. It is all where your head is at.

I have already spent more than the car's resale value. You have all helped me to see that my only option at this point is to finish the job.

I will then recover my investment through the years of enjoyment the car will give.

[paulofto]

Originally Posted by Roger1965

I will then recover my investment through the years of enjoyment the car will give.

That is exactly how you have to approach it. You will never get your money back, but enjoyment time (and peace of mind) is priceless.

[thstone]

Originally Posted by Roger1965

I have already spent more than the car's resale value. You have all helped me to see that my only option at this point is to finish the job.

I will then recover my investment through the years of enjoyment the car will give.

How many miles do you have and how many miles do you drive per year?

All engines will fail at some point and if your car is already high in mileage, then the replacement IMS bearing may not be buying you any extra time or miles.

[Roger1965]

It has 118,000 miles on it and I drive about 5,000 miles a year total, mostly in the Boxster. It is currently my daily driver. I put 3,000 miles on the boxster last year, driving it every day. I've never had an engine fail yet, my Vanagon had 300,000 miles on it. I sold that last summer.

I also have a motorcycle I use sometimes.

[Need_for_speed]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

We have customers that face that decision regularly. We just had a 2001 Boxster leave the shop after major upgrades (dual row IMS Solution, clutch, pressure plate, dual mass flywheel, throw out bearing, RMS, new AOS, plugs, new front brake air ducts, upgraded oil pump pressure spring and piston, etc., etc.) that all in cost a significant portion of the cars resale value.

I just did exactly this with mine (with the exception of the oil pump work and brake ducts, which I would like to know more about...), in addition to wheel bearings, water pump, idler pulleys, drive belt, thermostat, and chain tensioners. The work cost me as much as I paid for the car. But here's the thing: my wife and I love, love, love this car like no other. It is a true source of joy for us to drive this little roadster. Totally impractical and expensive. This is the emotional approach to the dilemma.

OTOH, San Rensho has an excellent point. With notable exceptions (like air-cooled 911s), most cars are hideous investments. You will never get back one nickel you put into them. And these old Boxsters are some of the worst for maintenance costs, and they're definitely not appreciating in value. Maybe the smart and practical approach is to spend as little as possible on them and drive them until they die.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Need_for_speed

I just did exactly this with mine (with the exception of the oil pump work and brake ducts, which I would like to know more about...), in addition to wheel bearings, water pump, idler pulleys, drive belt, thermostat, and chain tensioners. The work cost me as much as I paid for the car. But here's the thing: my wife and I love, love, love this car like no other. It is a true source of joy for us to drive this little roadster. Totally impractical and expensive. This is the emotional approach to the dilemma.

OTOH, San Rensho has an excellent point. With notable exceptions (like air-cooled 911s), most cars are hideous investments. You will never get back one nickel you put into them. And these old Boxsters are some of the worst for maintenance costs, and they're definitely not appreciating in value. Maybe the smart and practical approach is to spend as little as possible on them and drive them until they die.

Some years back, Porsche released an updated spring and piston for the oil pump, with a bevel on the top edge of the piston and a slightly stronger spring which improve the oil pressure slightly, particularly at low RPM's when hot. Parts are about $20, and it is a 5 min. swap when the car is in the air. Part numbers are 997-107-125-01 for the spring, 996-107-127-53 for the piston, and 996-107-123-50 for the crush washer.

The front brake ducts are a GT car item, and much bigger than factory for improved brake cooling, particularly at the track. Funny bit is that again they are less than $20 for the pair; part numbers are 997-341-483-92, and 997-341-484-92 (left and right). As the old units pop right out, these larger units are another 5 min. project.

[Need_for_speed]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Some years back, Porsche released an updated spring and piston for the oil pump, with a bevel on the top edge of the piston and a slightly stronger spring which improve the oil pressure slightly, particularly at low RPM's when hot. Parts are about $20, and it is a 5 min. swap when the car is in the air. Part numbers are 997-107-125-01 for the spring, 996-107-127-53 for the piston, and 996-107-123-50 for the crush washer.

The front brake ducts are a GT car item, and much bigger than factory for improved brake cooling, particularly at the track. Funny bit is that again they are less than $20 for the pair; part numbers are 997-341-483-92, and 997-341-484-92 (left and right). As the old units pop right out, these larger units are another 5 min. project.

JFP, thanks a million! I'll be doing both soon. Nothing better than cheap upgrades that actually work.

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Funny bit is that again they are less than $20 for the pair; part numbers are 997-341-483-92, and 997-341-484-92 (left and right). As the old units pop right out, these larger units are another 5 min. project.

Hello JFP in PA,

are we talking about number 5, 25, 26?



Thanks & regards, Markus

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Need_for_speed

... And these old Boxsters are some of the worst for maintenance costs, and they're definitely not appreciating in value. Maybe the smart and practical approach is to spend as little as possible on them and drive them until they die.

I'm looking into getting an updated diesel truck. It was pretty scary reading about the expense and frequency of repairs on some of the newer models. The complex tech that goes into newer vehicles for safety, emissions, and efficiency comes at a steep price. Maintaining the Boxsters is starting to look relatively cheap.

[Nmbrsix]

Originally Posted by Roger1965

That's what I was thinking too. But I'm guessing that along with the IMS that would be a repair bill somewhere around $7000? Is that in the ballpark? I've been thinking about doing it I just can't really make up my mind

I feel kind of like a gambler trying to decide if I'm in too far to quit or if I should just cut my losses now

Is this Chris's German? Not sure where in the PNW you are...

I know Chris's German can do the cam tensioners/pads with the motor in the car, which saves $$ on labor.

I had them do the IMS/RMS/clutch/flywheel/AOS/GBOX 2nd gear popout kit/water pump/thermostat/serp belt/WTFBBQ on my '02 986S last summer. All of that work wasn't $7000.

[Roger1965]

Originally Posted by Nmbrsix

Is this Chris's German? Not sure where in the PNW you are...

I know Chris's German can do the cam tensioners/pads with the motor in the car, which saves $$ on labor.

I had them do the IMS/RMS/clutch/flywheel/AOS/GBOX 2nd gear popout kit/water pump/thermostat/serp belt/WTFBBQ on my '02 986S last summer. All of that work wasn't $7000.

No it's not Chris's. I'm in Portland. And I was probably guessing a little high in my estimates.

[Pirate50]

A good Porsche shop in Portland isn't cheap but there are a few good ones. I use Marque Motors on Macadam for this type of thing. They are an L&N certified installer.They did my IMS bearing last year and I am happy with the work. Probably could have gotten it done cheaper but you get what you pay for. A couple other shops I've heard good things about (but haven't used myself) are Matrix Integrated and Stuttgart Autotech. Are any of these shops the one you used?

[Roger1965]

Originally Posted by Pirate50

A good Porsche shop in Portland isn't cheap but there are a few good ones. I use Marque Motors on Macadam for this type of thing. They are an L&N certified installer.They did my IMS bearing last year and I am happy with the work. Probably could have gotten it done cheaper but you get what you pay for. A couple other shops I've heard good things about (but haven't used myself) are Matrix Integrated and Stuttgart Autotech. Are any of these shops the one you used?

Yeah it was Marque Motors. Definitely a higher level of service there than my old shop.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Roger1965

I thought about that but if my car is not a candidate for an IMS replacement is it worth dropping that kind of coin? Also I have read on other threads here that the CL doesn't come on until 12° deviation is that right? The pads themselves maybe cheap but the labor sounds like it would be north of $3000.

And then I still have the bearing to worry about

Between 8-12 degrees it will start coding; usually more towards 12 degrees.