12-14-2016, 06:37 PM
|
#1
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: kirkland
Posts: 10
|
Help removing cv joint bolts
I am in the process of removing the engine, and for the life of me, I can't "Loosen and remove the 6 cap head bolts holding the inner CV joints to the differential. "
The rubber boot is in the way. I can't push the boot in enough to get the 8mm hex to fit into any of the bolts.
Any suggestions?
__________________
Replacing the engine because of IMS failure. Wish me luck.
|
|
|
|
12-15-2016, 03:25 PM
|
#3
|
|
Custom User Title Here
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ft. Leonard Wood
Posts: 6,163
|
I just left the e-brake off so I could spin the wheel. I found the easiest position for removal of each to be about 5 o'clock for the drivers (left) side and 7 o'clock for the passenger (right side). Remove the bolt at 5 o'clock, then spin the wheel to get the next bolt to that position.
Last edited by particlewave; 12-15-2016 at 04:53 PM.
|
|
|
|
|
12-15-2016, 04:49 PM
|
#4
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,143
|
The set I used had really long bits that could sneak past the boot. And I think had the ball end too.
|
|
|
|
|
12-15-2016, 09:13 PM
|
#5
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,456
|
You need just a long hex bit and best is a very long ratchet extension. I have a 750mm !/2" extension. Easy to do the cv joint hex bolts.
Hope you have the right tools for the rest of the engine removement.
Regards, Markus
|
|
|
|
|
12-16-2016, 03:59 AM
|
#6
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,643
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by particlewave
I just left the e-brake off so I could spin the wheel. I found the easiest position for removal of each to be about 5 o'clock for the drivers (left) side and 7 o'clock for the passenger (right side). Remove the bolt at 5 o'clock, then spin the wheel to get the next bolt to that position.
|
This is what I do too.
__________________
Woody
Last edited by itsnotanova; 12-16-2016 at 06:43 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
12-16-2016, 07:04 PM
|
#7
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: kirkland
Posts: 10
|
Off to Lowes tomorrow. Thanks!
__________________
Replacing the engine because of IMS failure. Wish me luck.
|
|
|
|
|
12-17-2016, 08:29 AM
|
#8
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S.California
Posts: 2,027
|
The final trick is reassembly
1. the Oeticker clamps- see Pelican for diy
2. zero grease in the threaded holes of the joint at the gearbox end and mild thread locker on the new bolts. You will believe the need when you read what happens when these bolts work loose because of sloppy/greasy re-installation.
|
|
|
|
|
12-17-2016, 06:35 PM
|
#9
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,493
|
....and a retorque check at 500 miles doesn't hurt either....
|
|
|
|
|
12-18-2016, 07:08 AM
|
#10
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,273
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dghii
....and a retorque check at 500 miles doesn't hurt either....
|
If you install the bolts clean and with a dab of medium LocTite, retorquing them is not only unnecessary, it is detrimental. As we cannot realistically ask a customer to bring every car back in 500 miles, proper installation is critical to prevent a job from coming back on a flatbed.
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
|
|
|
|
|
12-18-2016, 01:05 PM
|
#11
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tweed Heads, NSW,Australia
Posts: 15
|
Removing cv bolts
Hi , I found the quickest and easiest method was to undo the metal jubilee type clamp on the rubber CV boot. slide the boot back a little way, then you have direct access to the bolts. they are very tight and may need a rattler to undo. Added bonus check CV for grease.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
12-18-2016, 01:21 PM
|
#12
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,273
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweedboru
Hi , I found the quickest and easiest method was to undo the metal jubilee type clamp on the rubber CV boot. slide the boot back a little way, then you have direct access to the bolts. they are very tight and may need a rattler to undo. Added bonus check CV for grease.
Brian
|
Unnecessary. Use long Allan keys and rotate the axle to expose the bolts. Should not take more than 5 min. per side to disassemble.
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
|
|
|
|
|
12-18-2016, 02:13 PM
|
#13
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S.California
Posts: 2,027
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweedboru
Hi , I found the quickest and easiest method was to undo the metal jubilee type clamp on the rubber CV boot. slide the boot back a little way, then you have direct access to the bolts. they are very tight and may need a rattler to undo. Added bonus check CV for grease.
Brian
|
It should be an Oetiker clamp or low profile band clamp.
|
|
|
|
|
12-18-2016, 08:56 PM
|
#14
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,493
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
If you install the bolts clean and with a dab of medium LocTite, retorquing them is not only unnecessary, it is detrimental. As we cannot realistically ask a customer to bring every car back in 500 miles, proper installation is critical to prevent a job from coming back on a flatbed.
|
Understood.
Given that the my CV boot R/R was my first, and access to a lift is not an issue, I feel it best to check my work!
All was good so perhaps it wasn't necessary but given I'd read a few threads with folks dropping a half shaft, I felt better after the check.
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:34 AM.
| |
Boxter
Linear Mode
