Looking at the oil pressures, running @ 5,000rpm on the straits you are registering +/- 50 psi, and even under braking @ 4,000 rpm its still around 50 psi. But even before you hit the apex of the curves (and as you say especially turning right), the pressure immediately drops to 30 psi. So you have lost nearly 50% of your pressure due to cavitation. This would not be acceptable under normal track usage - in all the cars I have had at the track that had an oil pressure gauge fitted, I have never seen a pressure drop so pronounced. Sure, pressure drops with high oil temps, but 210 deg is not too bad for modern 5W40 non competition oils but I would imagine the oil temps would go up considerably if you were driving harder. If the temp sender was mounted in the sump pan, I would think the readings would be higher.
The old acceptable rule of thumb for oil pressure (once up to track temps) is 10 psi per 1000 rpm so your OK on the straitaways, but way below that on the sweepers. No wonder people lose their M96 / 97 engines on big sweeping tracks.....
If the temp sender was mounted in the sump pan, I would think the readings would be higher.
I wondered that, I was only able to test up to 200F after installing the gauge by street driving and up to those temperatures the built-in sump temp reading (via durametric observations) matched the gauge.
For the rest of what you were saying, thank.you. It kind of matches what i thought. Dang...
Maybe that's why they left off the oil gauge I saw a video of a guy that installed a gauge on his Cayman and it was just like mine...
I have an accusump kit in the garage, might be time to put it on.
On a tangent, if/when my driving gets to a higher level and I am.pushing the car harder what would be the appropriate oil for track that can handle higher temps and stresses AND with a semi-decent service interval, like 2000 miles or so? the second part might be a pipe dream
I saw a video of a guy that installed a gauge on his Cayman and it was just like mine...
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