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Old 02-12-2015, 09:39 AM   #1
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Mantis Deep Sump install

Did any of you get in on the Mantis Deep Sump GB from Planet-9 forum a few months ago? I am getting ready to install mine over the next few weeks and wanted to see if anyone had documented the install, or maybe at least had some pointers? Installation instructions are pretty light...

Here is the product:

1998 - 2008 Oil Sump Extension Kit - 2.0 L Race Version




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Old 02-12-2015, 12:14 PM   #2
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Search on Planet 9 it should be all there
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Old 02-12-2015, 01:21 PM   #3
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I have the 1.2L version on my '98, and found that the windage tray contacts the bottom of the oil separators in the sump. I made cutouts in the tray to clear them. Would not be a problem on 987's as they have a different style separator that does not extend below the block.

Also, I let it sit overnight after installation before filling with oil to give the sealant time to set up. Probably not necessary.
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Old 02-12-2015, 01:42 PM   #4
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Yeah, planet 9 had instructions for a deep sump install, but not this specific one. There is some cutting of the baffle that needs to be done, and it isn't really clear. thx
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Old 02-12-2015, 01:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlirium View Post
Yeah, planet 9 had instructions for a deep sump install, but not this specific one. There is some cutting of the baffle that needs to be done, and it isn't really clear. thx
The older mantis sump required the plastic baffle to be trimmed, IIRC. I'm pretty sure that is no longer necessary. Above, I was referring to the sheet aluminum windage tray that is part of the kit.
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Old 02-12-2015, 02:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spendy View Post
The older mantis sump required the plastic baffle to be trimmed, IIRC. I'm pretty sure that is no longer necessary. Above, I was referring to the sheet aluminum windage tray that is part of the kit.
Yeah...gotta trim something...here are the instructions:

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Old 02-12-2015, 02:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlirium View Post
Yeah...gotta trim something...here are the instructions:

Sorry - installed mine a couple years ago and forgot the trimming ...
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Old 02-12-2015, 02:42 PM   #8
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I have my original plastic baffle from when I installed the ebs baffle if you mess up or want to practice.
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Old 02-12-2015, 02:43 PM   #9
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Ebs also makes a deep sump compatible baffle, maybe it has the equivalent to the trimming already done? I think it I designed for the bk derp sump nut maybe the mods are the same?
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Old 02-12-2015, 05:02 PM   #10
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Hmmm it is soon long ago and all I recall putting holes in the windage tray to let the swirl pots through...but little else
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Old 02-12-2015, 05:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x;435925[B
]Ebs also makes a deep sump compatible baffle, maybe it has the equivalent to the trimming already done?[/B] I think it I designed for the bk derp sump nut maybe the mods are the same?
No the EBS baffle is designed to replace the stock one as it mounts on top of the oem pan "wall" I believe you need to trim your baffle flat so it will mount flat on the BK windage plate.
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:19 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
I have my original plastic baffle from when I installed the ebs baffle if you mess up or want to practice.
Thanks! Will let you know!!
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Mantis 2.0L Deep Sump, de-snorkeled, Bilstein PSS9 Coil-Overs, Rennline lug studs, and auto crossed regularly
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:38 AM   #13
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I also bought the 2L deep sump through the Planet-9 group buy. Be sure you have the correct size screws. Mantis initially sent out 40mm screws which turn out to be too long.

From my understanding, there may have been a change in design or the depth of the counter-sinks were bored too deeply, but either way the 40mm screws will bottom out. The correct size is 35mm. Unfortunately, I learned this the hard way as I was one of the first to install the 2L sump from the group buy. The long screws bottoming out caused my engine block to crack resulting in thousands of dollars in damage.

The correct screw length is on the right. You should have received replacements from Mantis already.


Last edited by calimanusa; 03-19-2015 at 12:13 AM.
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Old 03-18-2015, 06:26 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by calimanusa View Post
I also bought the 2L deep sump through the Planet-9 group buy. Be sure you have the correct size screws. Mantis initially sent out 40mm screws which turn out to be too long.

From my understanding, there was a change in design or the depth of the counter-sinks were bored too deeply, but either way the 40mm screws will bottom out. The correct size is 35mm. Unfortunately, I learned this the hard way as I was one of the first to install the 2L sump after their last manufacturing run. The long screws bottoming out caused my engine block to crack resulting in thousands of dollars in damage.

The correct screw length is on the right. You should have received replacements already.

Oh, major bummer! Very sorry to hear that :-(

I did receive the replacements, but haven't had a chance to give any of it a try. Will be a post Easter project at this point...

Thanks for letting us know!!
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:07 AM   #15
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I did not use the supplied bolts . I used studs - stainless steel threaded rod cut to custom lengths and +blue Loctite.. Then use deep s/s nuts with washer and green Loctite.No stripped threads or bottomed-out bolts.
If you are tempted to use the competitive alternative kit linked below, be aware there is still much tedious fitting & trimming to do. Plus the Instructions have you locate the horizontal baffle at the bottom of the pan ! - where it is relatively ineffective . The kit comes with the marginally more effective 997 Swirl Pots(de-foamers).
http://shop.tunersmotorsports.com/?product=trs-2-quart-deep-sump-kit
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:48 PM   #16
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Thought I'd provide a quick up date on this project for posterity...

Just got off the phone with Mantis. As you can see from the pictures below, the problem is that the bottom of the AOS is actually about 1/16" below the bottom of the engine. no problem for the stock pan, but this means that the windage tray does NOT fit flush. Mantis said "oh, you have an early engine, just cut a hole for the AOS". Well, no problem, i'll get right on that. Kind of a pain in the butt, and sort of un-does what the tray is suppose to do, no?

So, a little ticked off, but I'll cut the hole and do the test fit later this week. Hope to have this up and running by the weekend!!

Here is a picture of the AOS hanging down:



I had to make a template for where the AOS was, then transfer it to the windage tray:



Plan is to cut this out and get a reasonably close fit to minimize oil transfer via this hole:

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2000 S - Borla Exhaust, TS Cat Deletes, RSS UDP, B&M Short Shift, T96 Steering Wheel, Potenza RE-71R's,
Mantis 2.0L Deep Sump, de-snorkeled, Bilstein PSS9 Coil-Overs, Rennline lug studs, and auto crossed regularly
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykay View Post
Hmmm it is soon long ago and all I recall putting holes in the windage tray to let the swirl pots through...but little else
I hadn't understood this post until I had to go in and face the same problem!!
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Mantis 2.0L Deep Sump, de-snorkeled, Bilstein PSS9 Coil-Overs, Rennline lug studs, and auto crossed regularly
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:34 PM   #18
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I think some folks on planet 9 hit the tray with a hammer and made dents to clear it. Seems extreme to me. I went with the 997 (987?) oil return tubes, whichever come with the LN kit.
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Old 03-02-2016, 04:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
I think some folks on planet 9 hit the tray with a hammer and made dents to clear it. Seems extreme to me. I went with the 997 (987?) oil return tubes, whichever come with the LN kit.
Denting the "tray" will jeopardize bolt hole alignment between the tray & sump cover.

I have a LN baffle spacer if anyone needs it.
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Old 03-02-2016, 04:20 PM   #20
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The kit I linked above does not have this issue.
It does have other issues but they are easier to deal with as noted elsewhere.

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