2001 Boxster S Engine Noise

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

How much should the chain tensioner (nearest the oil pump) be able to collapse? It barely moves 1/4" and becomes rock hard. Doesn't appear to be any cracks on the contact pad inside the engine case, and the wear pattern is central on the end of the tensioner.

Is this the tensioner with the spring preload plunger? You should be able to compress it 1/2" - 3/4". To properly test it, place in hot clean engine oil 2" deep & pump the plunger. You should see dirty oil coming out making room for clean oil to go in.
Easiest to do this in a electric cooking pan @ 250 degrees.

[Wilson01S]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

Is this the tensioner with the spring preload plunger? You should be able to compress it 1/2" - 3/4". To properly test it, place in hot clean engine oil 2" deep & pump the plunger. You should see dirty oil coming out making room for clean oil to go in.
Easiest to do this in a electric cooking pan @ 250 degrees.

Ok great. I pumped it in a container of clean, ambient oil for about 10 mins and it loosened up. I will do again with hot oil to make sure its all the way cleaned out.

I am afraid that the ~15k mi oil changes my uncle followed with this car sludged this engine. According to his service records it has had 3 oil changes in 36,975 miles over the course of 12 years HA!

I think some dirt and sludged oil may have partially or fully collapsed a lifter since everything else in the area seems to be in good working order.

Is it ok to run this engine with the trans out and the flywheel on? The engine is well supported, and I can easily put the exhaust on and support that without the trans in. I would like to listen for this noise again and be able to get closer.

**note I won't touch the flywheel

[Homeboy981]

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

Is it ok to run this engine with the trans out and the flywheel on? The engine is well supported, and I can easily put the exhaust on and support that without the trans in. I would like to listen for this noise again and be able to get closer.

**note I won't touch the flywheel

I had the same question too! We need a voice of experience here. Who has done it, please step forward!

[Wilson01S]

Originally Posted by Homeboy981

I had the same question too! We need a voice of experience here. Who has done it, please step forward!

Well I ran it for over an hour tonight with the trans out. Had the flywheel on and torqued, all went well! Had a slight drip from slave cylinder...that was the only real issue with it running with the trans out

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by Homeboy981

I had the same question too! We need a voice of experience here. Who has done it, please step forward!

Yeah you can, you just have to compensate for the missing transmission mounts.

[Homeboy981]

Cool beans!

Thanks for the 'post of experience'. The engine is supported in 2 spots with a large piece of HDPE. Only need to hear it for a few seconds to determine what path to take.

So, Wilson01S, are you fixed then? What did your engine tell you when you ran it? No more "clunking" I hope?

I too heard that by removing the OLD oil from the chain tensioner and replacing it with NEW oil, it may calm down the 'regular' chain startup rattle…yours was NOT a rattle - but the RATTLESNAKE SHAKE!

Bet you'll be doing REGULARLY SCHEDULED oil changes from now on!

[Wilson01S]

Originally Posted by Homeboy981

Cool beans!

So, Wilson01S, are you fixed then? What did your engine tell you when you ran it? No more "clunking" I hope?

I too heard that by removing the OLD oil from the chain tensioner and replacing it with NEW oil, it may calm down the 'regular' chain startup rattle…yours was NOT a rattle - but the RATTLESNAKE SHAKE!

Bet you'll be doing REGULARLY SCHEDULED oil changes from now on!

This car was my "Uncles" and I believe he followed the 15,000 mile oil change interval....unfortunately the car has 36,984mi and its 12 years old!!!!!!!!!

I have always changed the oil twice a year on our 98 boxster base (it only gets ~2000mi/year) so I do a change in the spring and a change in the fall before its stored.

Anyway I pulled the cam cover yesterday...I will take the cams out today. Nothing looks abnormal yet with the clutch, IMS, compression, spark plugs, exhaust manifolds, and now under the cam cover.

ByProDriver- is there a spec or anything I can look at to see if I would have a failed lifter? I will have them all out this afternoon and I am just wondering if there is anything I can look for to see if one is bad?

Thanks again guys and I will keep you posted and upload a ton of pics over the weekend!

[BYprodriver]

Just like the tensioners. Cook at 270 degrees for about 8 hours in new oil, then pump up. Make sure to replace lifters on same valve if they pass the test. Is the tensioner in this pic the one you removed??