2001 Boxster S Engine Noise - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Wilson01S · 04-25-2013, 01:39 PM

Hey everyone- New to the forum but after doing some research this seemed to be the most knowledgeable forum for the 986.

I just purchased a 01 Boxster S with 36,9xx miles on it. I bought this from an extended family member in S. Florida as a project- so I knew going into it that it has an issue.

It has a very loud, very distinct engine rattle/tap during the entire RPM band. I had the car shipped to RD Automotive in Albany, NY for their diagnosis and opinion. Listening to it today on the lift the noise seems to be coming from the Left (DS) cylinder head. The car idles and runs quite smoothly- if you can overlook the noise ha!

Has anyone heard a noise like this or similar? Any ideas as to what it might be coming from inside that little engine?

Here is a quick youtube clip I took of the car inside the shop.

2001 Boxster S engine noise 3.2l - YouTube

BoxsterSteve · 04-25-2013, 02:54 PM

Crap, that sounds awful!

Look for loose sparkplugs or exhaust manifold bolts, maybe.

BYprodriver · 04-25-2013, 03:17 PM

Probably a clogged lifter from not changing the oil often enough. You should change the oil & filter & inspect the filter for anything other than oil in it. Adding any sort of engine cleaner will make the problem worse.

Oh, welcome to the best 986 forum!

Spinnaker · 04-25-2013, 06:21 PM

I'll take a guess - broken valve spring.

Timco · 04-25-2013, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spinnaker

I'll take a guess - broken valve spring.

This......

Wilson01S · 04-26-2013, 05:46 AM

A broken valve spring or collapsed lifter was what I thought to myself when I heard the noise and where it was coming from. Have any of you seen valve springs fail on such a low mileage, stock engine? A valve spring generally does not just fail without something causing it to fail. That "something" is what I am fearing ha!

Wilson01S · 05-23-2013, 02:25 PM

On a side note: How much free play is tolerable for the DM flywheel? When I was disassembling I noticed it probably had a 1/8-1/4" play left to right. Is this within spec for some movement? I know my measurment isn't exactly precise, but a rough guess.

BYprodriver · 05-24-2013, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

On a side note: How much free play is tolerable for the DM flywheel? When I was disassembling I noticed it probably had a 1/8-1/4" play left to right. Is this within spec for some movement? I know my measurment isn't exactly precise, but a rough guess.

Your flywheel is great, tolerance is about 1/2"

Wilson01S · 05-24-2013, 09:52 AM

How much should the chain tensioner (nearest the oil pump) be able to collapse? It barely moves 1/4" and becomes rock hard. Doesn't appear to be any cracks on the contact pad inside the engine case, and the wear pattern is central on the end of the tensioner.

BYprodriver · 05-24-2013, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

How much should the chain tensioner (nearest the oil pump) be able to collapse? It barely moves 1/4" and becomes rock hard. Doesn't appear to be any cracks on the contact pad inside the engine case, and the wear pattern is central on the end of the tensioner.

Is this the tensioner with the spring preload plunger? You should be able to compress it 1/2" - 3/4". To properly test it, place in hot clean engine oil 2" deep & pump the plunger. You should see dirty oil coming out making room for clean oil to go in.
Easiest to do this in a electric cooking pan @ 250 degrees.

Wilson01S · 05-24-2013, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

Is this the tensioner with the spring preload plunger? You should be able to compress it 1/2" - 3/4". To properly test it, place in hot clean engine oil 2" deep & pump the plunger. You should see dirty oil coming out making room for clean oil to go in.
Easiest to do this in a electric cooking pan @ 250 degrees.

Ok great. I pumped it in a container of clean, ambient oil for about 10 mins and it loosened up. I will do again with hot oil to make sure its all the way cleaned out.

I am afraid that the ~15k mi oil changes my uncle followed with this car sludged this engine. According to his service records it has had 3 oil changes in 36,975 miles over the course of 12 years HA!

I think some dirt and sludged oil may have partially or fully collapsed a lifter since everything else in the area seems to be in good working order.

Is it ok to run this engine with the trans out and the flywheel on? The engine is well supported, and I can easily put the exhaust on and support that without the trans in. I would like to listen for this noise again and be able to get closer.

**note I won't touch the flywheel

Homeboy981 · 05-24-2013, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

Is it ok to run this engine with the trans out and the flywheel on? The engine is well supported, and I can easily put the exhaust on and support that without the trans in. I would like to listen for this noise again and be able to get closer.

**note I won't touch the flywheel

I had the same question too! We need a voice of experience here. Who has done it, please step forward!

Wilson01S · 05-24-2013, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeboy981

I had the same question too! We need a voice of experience here. Who has done it, please step forward!

Well I ran it for over an hour tonight with the trans out. Had the flywheel on and torqued, all went well! Had a slight drip from slave cylinder...that was the only real issue with it running with the trans out

BYprodriver · 05-25-2013, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Homeboy981

I had the same question too! We need a voice of experience here. Who has done it, please step forward!

Yeah you can, you just have to compensate for the missing transmission mounts.

Wilson01S · 05-31-2013, 02:14 PM

Ok I removed the cams and lifters and have the submerged in the oil bath now. My question is they are all hard as a rock zero play. Maybe they have to soak in hot oil longer? I would figure even in ambient temp oil they should have some movement?

I was hoping I would find one that looked bad, or acted different from all the others. Now I am back to the drawing board as to what this noise can be.

Wilson01S · 05-31-2013, 02:26 PM

I never posted on this thread that when I ran the car with the transmission out (I ran it for about an hour with 20w50) the noise went COMPLETELY AWAY for about 4 mins. I recorded it for about 30 seconds. Then the noise gradually came back to where it started from.

This leads me to believe that it really has to be a lifter? What else could have stopped just from a fresh oil change and came back???

Wilson01S · 06-03-2013, 09:50 AM

Just removed the lifter guide tray to inspect valve springs....all look perfect.

Wilson01S · 06-04-2013, 09:10 AM

I just noticed that the cam shaft/tensioner/chain assembly I removed from the 4-6 head does not have the color coded links lined up with the index dots on the gears. Did I remove the 4-6 cams with having 1-3 on TDC exhaust? Seems like I am a cycle out. Should I carefully spin the engine and guide the chain and gear that are just sitting for the 4-6 head until I reach TDC for the other side since that is not apart? Whats the safest way to retime this engine now that I have it apart, and what seems to be out of sequence?

BYprodriver · 06-04-2013, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

I just noticed that the cam shaft/tensioner/chain assembly I removed from the 4-6 head does not have the color coded links lined up with the index dots on the gears. Did I remove the 4-6 cams with having 1-3 on TDC exhaust? Seems like I am a cycle out. Should I carefully spin the engine and guide the chain and gear that are just sitting for the 4-6 head until I reach TDC for the other side since that is not apart? Whats the safest way to retime this engine now that I have it apart, and what seems to be out of sequence?

There is a 50% chance you are 360 degrees off for setting 4-6cyl cam timing. To verify remove the 1-3cyl green cam plugs to visually verify 1-3cyl cams are timed right. If the 1-3 cams are correct for TDC then 4-6 bank is 360 degrees off & you need to turn engine 1 revolution CLOCKWISE back to TDC. 1-3cyl cam notches will now be upside down & 4-6 cams are ready for install & timing.

Wilson01S · 06-04-2013, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

There is a 50% chance you are 360 degrees off for setting 4-6cyl cam timing. To verify remove the 1-3cyl green cam plugs to visually verify 1-3cyl cams are timed right. If the 1-3 cams are correct for TDC then 4-6 bank is 360 degrees off & you need to turn engine 1 revolution CLOCKWISE back to TDC. 1-3cyl cam notches will now be upside down & 4-6 cams are ready for install & timing.

Ok great, Thanks again. Thats what I was thinking. I'm 99% sure 1-3 is TDC right now, and 4-6 are 360 out.