2001 Boxster S Engine Noise

[BYprodriver]

Wow that is nasty! I would replace all those lifters too. Be sure to clean & blow out the oil passages with compressed air.

[Wilson01S]

After a thorough cleaning of the cam cover, and the entire top of the cylinder head, cleaning of oil passages, installation of new lifters on the passenger and drivers side, replacement of the cam-to-cam chain pads and fresh mobil 1 15w50

the noise is still there.

I took a new video...about 3/4 of the way through I held it at 1800rpm and you can hear the noise begin to skip around and become random.

also note that for about 1 minute the noise went away again, and gradually came back.


2001 Boxster S knock - YouTube

enjoy.


side note #2- is this fast enough to be a lower end noise?

[woodsman]

I've been watching your 'project' and admire your bravery and thought you had it licked! Not quite yet, but keep up the good fight and here's to a happy end!

[Wilson01S]

Thanks woodsman! I will be removing the engine this week and tearing it apart. I have eliminated all other possibilities.

[mitchellb]

I believe I had the same problem 3 months ago, 4-6 Cyl, timing went haywire, noise was exactly like yours. I could not diagnose, so I towed it to a friend who has a Porsche Shop here in So. Fla.
Ok, $1800 later it was the Vario Chain Tensioner for 4-6Cyl's, whos Rail Clip broke apart and created that severe knocking. I didn't read everything you have written but it also could be the solonoid attached to the Tensioner that isnt working. I hear thats has been an issue on early models, Just a thought? Also a note on putting the covers back on, be careful as to the amount of Silicon(Loctite 5900, Only two are recommended) as it can jam up the oil return hole next to the bottom Cam and pressure will result in blowing out the Green Cap and leaking oil. We experienced that after and had to redo the the Valve Cover.
Please let us know how you make out of your exhausting deal.

[Wilson01S]

Well I found the problem. The number 6 connecting rod bearing failed and destroyed the crankshaft journal. Also the rear most crankshaft carrier bearing has preliminary signs of failure from either metal contamination from the rod bearing, or excessive vibration from the rod bearing. It caused some pretty serious scoring in the piston hole, and ya...it pretty!

My ultimate wish would be a flat6 build, but quite frankly it's way out my budget. Now I am on the fence as to whether I should just sell my car as a roller/part it out, or search for a low mileage 3.2 to swap in.

I have read a couple of conversion threads and articles about swapping a 3.4 into the car, but it appears to be less straightforward than I thought. I didn't know there was much involved in the ways of intake plumbing, MAF, DME, trans mount, etc

Is it really worth the hassle, or should I look for a 3.2?

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by Wilson01S

Well I found the problem. The number 6 connecting rod bearing failed and destroyed the crankshaft journal. Also the rear most crankshaft carrier bearing has preliminary signs of failure from either metal contamination from the rod bearing, or excessive vibration from the rod bearing. It caused some pretty serious scoring in the piston hole, and ya...it pretty!

My ultimate wish would be a flat6 build, but quite frankly it's way out my budget. Now I am on the fence as to whether I should just sell my car as a roller/part it out, or search for a low mileage 3.2 to swap in.

I have read a couple of conversion threads and articles about swapping a 3.4 into the car, but it appears to be less straightforward than I thought. I didn't know there was much involved in the ways of intake plumbing, MAF, DME, trans mount, etc

Is it really worth the hassle, or should I look for a 3.2?

2000 or 2001 996 3.4 is the easiest engine to swap. After listening to the engine run, perform a compression &/or leakdown test to check for excessively worn cylinders since the 3.4 engine has the thinnest cylinder walls. If the engine passes you still need to remove the cam covers & replace the VarioCam actuator wear pads. While you have the lifters out clean & test them. Reassemble the cams & covers & set cam timing. Now you are ready to do the LNengineering IMSB retrofit. Now you should have a reliable engine ready to swap. The long blocks are nearly identical so remove original engine & position 3.4 side by side & swap external parts that are different for 996. This swap will run great without reprograming the DME.
There is a rebuilt engine in the classified thread designed for this application.
Yesterday, 07:41 AM I posted this yesterday on Pelican in a simuler thread for a 02.

[Wilson01S]

Well after a very, very long time searching I finally found a nice low mileage (51K) 3.2 for my boxster!!!

I finally got it in and its running great! Upgraded the IMS, replaced spark plug tubes, AOS, and a few other maintenance items, but I am finally able to drive the car!!

Now its time for a little body work, and to finish the restore project

[woodsman]

Too bad the original engine was so bad. You must have learned a lot though. Is the base car the wife's now?

[recycledsixtie]

Originally Posted by woodsman

Too bad the original engine was so bad. You must have learned a lot though. Is the base car the wife's now?

I have been following your thread and have nothing but total admiration for your persistence in fixing your Boxster.
Cheers, G.

[BruceH]

Great to hear you have it running! Good luck on the rest of yr project!