Ignition Switch Replacement: HOLY CRAP!!!

[kjc2050]

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker

Yes - did you think it was anything else - unless its the steering wheel lock which needs you to wriggle the wheel to engage the key....?

Yup, what he said.

When my switch went, the key spun (what seemed like) too far, and was nearly impossible to remove. (See the 1st post in this thread.) Get a new switch.

[evo-r]

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker

Yes - did you think it was anything else - unless its the steering wheel lock which needs you to wriggle the wheel to engage the key....?

Yes, first thing I try was wriggling the steering wheel which didn't help... Time to get a new switch, hope there won't be too much cursing during the replacement. Thanks guys!

[steved0x]

The steps in this thread are very good, and I just replaced my switch using these instructions. Taking out the left side vent and the headlight switch really opened things up and let me see. I was able to do the entire job without crawling under the dash with the exception of putting back on the AC vent tube. I used this 33 piece precision screwdriver set from harbor freight:

Precision Screwdriver Set - 33 Piece

http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html



It has a long flexible extension arm where you turn the base and the tip turns. And it also had the right size torx bits as well as a tiny flathead attachment for this job.




Here is a picture. It is kind of blurry so I outlined it in white. For loosening the set screws I was able to do it through the ac vent, and for tightening them back a reached under the dash. (If I were to do it again I would go under the dash both times as it was easier)


The hardest part of the job was trying to get a flashlight to point so I could see when both hands were busy holding the two ends of the screwdriver. I wished I would have had one of these head light attachment headbands(and I do now for next time)

Headlamp with Swivel Lens

I also got my switch from the same seller in the link earlier in the thread and it worked great.

Don't be afraid of this job like I was, it is not that hard. And get 2 switches and keep on in the car; my last switch was replaced just over a year and less than 10,000 miles ago.

Steve

[evo-r]

Thank you Steve for the tips!

It seems like these ignition switches failed quite often? Any reason why? Due to poor aftermarket parts? Is "Meyle" a good brand?

[MitchSF]

There seem to be several variations of this part on eBay. Is there one in particular that tends to be more reliable, either OEM or aftermarket?

[steved0x]

I think it is just the nature of the part to fail from time to time. If you go to a dealership they will most likely want to replace the whole lock assembly which uses an updated electrical switch portion (for major $$$ probably). The original switch isn't even available as a Porsche part # anymore and you have to get it aftermarket.

I am always gentle with mine and have only 2 house keys on the key ring with it; some folks have none because they want no extra weight hanging.

I think mine failed this time because I muscled it too hard one time by mistake.

If I had to change it again it would go much faster. Don't be afraid. This is the first car I have ever worked on and this forum helped me lots.

Steve

[Spinnaker]

I disassembled my last broken switch to see what was going on inside of it, out of curiosity. The problem. as I see it, is that it is made out of plastic, and there is a lot of tension on it from the spring inside. The thin plastic parts fatigue from the constant use, and fail. Plastic doesn't like to be under constant stress. It is OK for decorative items, but anything that gets stressed constantly will eventually fail. The thinner the cross section, the sooner it will fail.
Updating to the newer ignition switch assembly doesn't seem to help. There have been posts about them failing also.
I have resigned myself to treating the ignition switch as a maintenance and wear item, like tires, brakes, clutches, etc. It's not so bad to do once you have replaced it the first time and they are cheap enough if you get them from the online parts places. Just buy enough of them to last for awhile and to be sure you have one when you need it. I always have one in the car with the proper tools the do the job anytime, anyplace, anywhere it may happen again. I have no doubt that it will happen to me again. I am on my third switch.
Just curious if the VW and Audi guys have the same problem (same switch).

edit: Just did a search for Audi ignition switch problems and the Net is full of posts with the same problems we have. Guess we are all in the same boat.

[1080Z]

The tiny screwdriver I used came in a sunglass repair kit. Cost a few bucks at a Gibson's discount store. I used my left hand leaving my right arm hanging to get a better angle.

[jakeykev]

Hi guys, looking for some help and advice here.

I'm trying to replace the ignition switch on my Boxster. I've had the car for 4 years and it's not really had any issues until last week when the electricial system has gone a bit mad.

Done some research and decided I want to change the ignition switch so took off side vent and the A/C ducting and got a look at the switch.

It looks like the previous owner has perhaps the replaced the switch as the two litte grub screws and in bad shape with the heads of them chewed to the point where I cant really get a grip with a small screwdriver.

Looking for some advice on how to remove them or what best course of action will be.

Car is a 97 Boxster.

Thanks

[jcslocum]

I used my 1/4" drive set to get at it from the AC vent. This tool might allow you to apply some extra pressure to get a bite on the top of the screw head. Get some new screws to replace them! This will have to be done again....

[p3230]

I opened the top on mine and took the drivers seat out about an hour and a half job as it's the third time I do it.

[Gelbster]

There is a long thread elsewhere that proposed the use of "thumb screws" to replace the stock screws.This allows easy use of just your finger tips to remove and refit the switch... & the next switch ..& the
The size thumb screw required is M4 x 0.7 x 10mm but 20mm is also mentioned.
http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/951946-ignition-switch-replacement-tip-2.html
Maybe this?
https://www.amazon.com/Screws-Shoulder-Metric-Thread-Knurled/dp/B01H0EFKD0

[lkchris]

Yes, the Porsche special tool collection contains a screwdriver specifically for this application.

Can't recall whether I got this from Wiha or from ECS Tuning, but it wasn't expensive.

[dghii]

All good stuff! Would have loved to try the duct tape method. I've done 5 ignition switches (not in the same Boxster, thank goodness!).

1. I cut down a jewelers screw driver and used JB weld to make some wings to give my additional torque.

2. Remove vent duct under the steering column to remove the ignition switch screw on passenger side.

3. Remove drivers side AC vent and duct to access the drivers side screw. Remove switch through the vent opening.

I'm down to 20-30 minutes without breaking a sweat!

[oldskool73]

Had to do this today, was pretty easy from underneath with a small palm ratchet like this:

[dghii]

Got one of those no but like the thumbscrew idea!

[tommydorsey]

Quick question, possibly a stupid one. The key in our 2000 turns pretty slowly, feels like it's in thick syrup. I gather from this thread that the switch is the issue, but - replacing the switch does not mean a new key, correct? It doesn't seem like it from the posts, but wanted to make sure.

Thanks,

Jim

[PaulE]

Replacing the electrical switch portion behind the key lock does not require a new key, lock or other expensive stuff to be replaced. But I'm not confirming your diagnosis that you need just the new electrical switch. It sounds like it could well be, but I'm not a certified auto professional!

[Xpit77]

I used this.The driver separates from the tip caddy and has a light too.

[billh1963]

When you post some of your cool tools, please post links on where to find them