track oriented suspension

[jsceash]

Originally Posted by rastta

Actually the cup arms are different than the regular GT3 arms - they are forged and more expensive and also have monoballs from the factory.

I'm not knocking them - but the whole idea of shims turns me off - especially when having to dial in camber.

The split arms and shim are no different than solid arms except, when your frame side eccentric bolt bottoms out you add a shim and then you regain the adjustment of the eccentrics. I use a 3MM shim on the street and a 7MM shim on track. then adjust the toe link to get your toe back in.

[rastta]

Originally Posted by jsceash

The split arms and shim are no different than solid arms except, when your frame side eccentric bolt bottoms out you add a shim and then you regain the adjustment of the eccentrics. I use a 3MM shim on the street and a 7MM shim on track. then adjust the toe link to get your toe back in.

I'm familiar with how they work. The issue is - when I'm looking to get an exact camber number - how do I know what shim to use? With a bolt - I can simply move it slightly to accurately dial in what I want. I guess if you have a variety of different sized shims this isn't a problem - but they aren't cheap.

[MaxD]

The GT3 arms increase the track width of your car while adding camber. You get two enhancement (increased track and camber) for the price of the arms. Both are advantageous to your cars performance.

The shims are silly expensive but there are many non factory less pricey alternatives (tarett for instance). Once set up you will normally only use 1-4 mm shims for changes.

[jsceash]

You still have the eccentric bolt for fine adjustment. That gives you about 1-1/2 degrees of fine adjustment after installing a shim.

[rastta]

Originally Posted by jsceash

You still have the eccentric bolt for fine adjustment. That gives you about 1-1/2 degrees of fine adjustment after installing a shim.

Front has no eccentric.

[jsceash]

My 2003 had chamber adjustment eccentric screws all four wheel. I've installed K2 coil-overs with chamber plates all four corners and split arms. If I wanted I could get -4.5 degrees chamber without rubbing, but that's excessive.

[MaxD]

My 2003 had chamber adjustment eccentric screws all four wheel.

Can you show us a photo of the front set up. Are the control arms factory parts?

[thstone]

Originally Posted by rastta

I'm familiar with how they work. The issue is - when I'm looking to get an exact camber number - how do I know what shim to use? With a bolt - I can simply move it slightly to accurately dial in what I want. I guess if you have a variety of different sized shims this isn't a problem - but they aren't cheap.

A good race shop already knows the relationship of number and sizes of shims to degrees of camber. And yes, most shops have already have all of the various sizes in stock and only charge you for what is installed on your car.

When you change the camber setting, you might need to buy 1 new shim to get the correct camber but then the shop will give you the excess shim back in case you need it in the future. Over time you'll own a small assortment of shims and the shop will use your stock of shims so you don't have to keep buying additional shims each time you want to make a change.

If you wanted to learn this yourself, you'd buy a small assortment of shims and then test using different combinations to create a shim vs camber table. Once you had the table, you could make changes pretty easily and quickly.

[jsceash]

Well I have to take back what I said on the front you guys are right the front looks like this







Sorry for the confusion and the quality of the pictures the photos of the rear did not come out, to dark in my garage I try to take them again tomorrow.

[jsceash]

Rear suspension alterations.


Adjustable top plate coil over.


7MM shim in GT3 C arms.


Stock Adjustable eccentric bolts for fine adjustment.


Adjustable Toe Links From Ebay.


7MM spacer plate. 45MM studs from Rennline.

[Brad Roberts]

I'm familiar with how they work. The issue is - when I'm looking to get an exact camber number - how do I know what shim to use? With a bolt - I can simply move it slightly to accurately dial in what I want. I guess if you have a variety of different sized shims this isn't a problem - but they aren't cheap.

5mm shim .5deg negative
10mm shim 1deg negative

Hasn't changed in 18yrs since the arms have been out. New are are the same! Super simple to figure out once you have a selection.

[rastta]

Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

5mm shim .5deg negative
10mm shim 1deg negative

Hasn't changed in 18yrs since the arms have been out. New are are the same! Super simple to figure out once you have a selection.

First time I've ever seen anyone post the relationship between a shim and camber. Thanks.