Race suspension alignment

[993innc]

Well I'm not exactly sure how comparing a completely different car applies? I have been told here and by others, that the values need to be as close to -3 camber etc as I can get as a starting point to work from.
These values are maxed out as you see it. These aren't arbitrary values, they are all the car could give me for the parts I altered.

[LAP1DOUG]

Originally Posted by 993innc

Well I'm not exactly sure how comparing a completely different car applies? I have been told here and by others, that the values need to be as close to -3 camber etc as I can get as a starting point to work from.
These values are maxed out as you see it. These aren't arbitrary values, they are all the car could give me for the parts I altered.

I understand where you are coming from, but some things don't look right to me either.

That right rear looks like too much negative camber and too much toe-in. I am guessing from these rear end camber vs. toe numbers that your rear end is lowered to the point that you cannot reduce the camber any more, and you are stuck with too much toe-in at the rear. You may need to raise your ride height slightly to get back into a good adjustment range.

For the front I like to run absolute zero front toe, but to each his own. It's usually not a big deal, but I think these cars naturally have a bit too much caster. If you have the adjustable bushings in the center of your GT3 arms, you can adjust out some of that caster. Sometimes this helps if you are having problems with really wide front tires rubbing on the fender liner. I also have a theory that reduced caster can help with that stupid power steering overheating issue, and seems to help bump steer.

I'd take it back, even if it meant another iteration with corner weight adjustment.

One more thing on that -3 deg negative camber thing: If you are running NT-01's, I think this is really more camber than is optimum based on tire temperatures and wear patterns I have experienced. If you are running HoHo R6's or A6's, yes you definitely want the -3 degrees. Dunlops seem to like close to -3 also. I can't say for sure on others, but generally the stiffer the sidewall, the less negative camber a given tire needs.

Good luck.

[rastta]

Originally Posted by 993innc

Well I'm not exactly sure how comparing a completely different car applies? I have been told here and by others, that the values need to be as close to -3 camber etc as I can get as a starting point to work from.
These values are maxed out as you see it. These aren't arbitrary values, they are all the car could give me for the parts I altered.

Alignments are alignments. I can show an alignment done on my S4 which has different values - BUT the point is the same - your values - whatever they may be for a specific car shouldn't vary side to side as much as they do. Whether it is toe or camber - unless you are setting your car up for a specific race track and have the knowledge that you should have different settings.

[993innc]

Originally Posted by rastta

Alignments are alignments. I can show an alignment done on my S4 which has different values - BUT the point is the same - your values - whatever they may be for a specific car shouldn't vary side to side as much as they do. Whether it is toe or camber - unless you are setting your car up for a specific race track and have the knowledge that you should have different settings.

No German car I've ever owned has been able to get exactly the same values when maxed out. You can get them while doing a general setup.....

[rastta]

Originally Posted by 993innc

No German car I've ever owned has been able to get exactly the same values when maxed out. You can get them while doing a general setup.....

Only time I've ever had a problem getting the same values was when I had it aligned at a shop who didn't know what they were doing.

Based upon this discussion - you've installed all the parts to allow for the maximum amount of adjustment - toe links and adjustable camber arms.

Not trying to argue with you - but with all that adjustment ability - there is no reason why you can't get the same values or at least much much closer than what you have with a competent alignment guy.

[993innc]

Originally Posted by rastta

Only time I've ever had a problem getting the same values was when I had it aligned at a shop who didn't know what they were doing.

Based upon this discussion - you've installed all the parts to allow for the maximum amount of adjustment - toe links and adjustable camber arms.

Not trying to argue with you - but with all that adjustment ability - there is no reason why you can't get the same values or at least much much closer than what you have with a competent alignment guy.

Admittedly he's not a pcar only alignment guy. And in his defense, I told him to maximize everything. He did what I told him to do. Now should he have said, hey these values aren't equal........? yeah and he may have, I don't recall.
In the end if it doesn't perform correctly, I'll get it corrected. No big deal.....
It's a lot better than it was

[rastta]

Originally Posted by 993innc

Admittedly he's not a pcar only alignment guy. And in his defense, I told him to maximize everything. He did what I told him to do. Now should he have said, hey these values aren't equal........? yeah and he may have, I don't recall.
In the end if it doesn't perform correctly, I'll get it corrected. No big deal.....
It's a lot better than it was

It's all good. Hopefully you won't have to pay a second time if it isn't good the first.