replace your spark plugs

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

Sorry John, to each his own...

Hand tightening and then going another quarter turn is widely imprecise for a procedure where precision is exactly what is called for to insure proper sealing, and indexing, of the plug. I wouldn't be surprised to see variations of as much as 15 ft.lbs. over 6 plugs using this method. They may never be overtorqued as you say, but they never be properly torqued either.

I do admit to having used this method in my distant past when working on motors with Cast Iron Heads (Flathead 8's, Smallblocks, and the like), but when working with Aluminum Heads (actually usually Aluminum/Magneseum alloy), proper torqueing of the plugs is key to both preventing seizure and galling the threads, and proper sealing and indexing. I have installed/replaced literally hundreds of plugs in my life using this method without a single issue. And, Porsche does not specify using anything on the threads, if this were to cause issues, they certainly would.

Fact is, the only time I ever had a seized plug requiring a Heli-coil fix was when an Anti-Seize had been previously used, so my natural inclination is to stay away from it for Plugs. I do use Anti-seize for many other procedures on the 6 cars I own and maintain.

Again, I'm averse to using it on wheel lugs as well unless specifically called for. Proper torqueing, in stages, has never left me wanting. But, to each his own...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[John V]

To each his own, agreed. However if a plug seized in "due to anti-seize being used" then someone used the wrong anti-seize. User error.

[Tool Pants]

I had a plug seized in the head. It was an aluminum head. Standard copper plug with nickle plated threads. Technically that should not have happened. Pulled the head for a heli-coil. That is when I started using the stuff on plugs. That was something like 25 plus years ago. It is an old habit I have. Guess I will not go to Porsche heaven....

[John V]

Never mind that helicoils used for spark plugs are a nightmare on their own, but not a whole lot of other options....

[Uncle Bob]

I started using it in the late 60's when first building motorcycle engines. Always used a high temp lead or copper based paste. I also use it on my wheels. It's saved having the wheels bond to the hubs (alum alloy to steel). Never had a problem with it. Yes, a little goes a long way. I was taught to spread it evenly in the threads and wipe excess prior to threading.

We use it in the refinery business as a matter of course. You try removing a 2 1/8" nut that's been heat cycled to over 800F several hundred times without it....it's no different in cryogenic service. Lots of our refrigerated propane systems run at -60F and anti seize is a must.

I've read the TSB's also and take them with a grain of salt.

To each his own indeed!