replace your spark plugs

[porschegeorg]

I just replaced the spark plugs this weekend. I thought it would be more difficult than it was. For anyone who changes their own oil, changing your spark plugs is not a bad do-it-yourself task.

Tools: 5mm hex socket (or allen wrench), 8 inch socket extension, 10mm socket, spark plug socket.

Here is what I did:

1) remove the rear wheels
2) remove the wheel well cover (use a 10mm socket on the 2 nuts). I found it easier to reach the plug closest to the front of the car with the cover removed.
3) there are 3 plugs on each side of the engine. you can see the 3 coil packs with the rear wheels off of the car. remove the wire clip from the coil packs by pinching (with your fingers) the clip about an inch from where it attaches to the coil pack. there are 2 5mm hex screws that hold the coil pack to the engine. remove the 2 scews and pull the coil packs from the plug.
4) put the 8 inch extension and plug socket into the plug hole and fit it onto the spark plug. fit the socket wrench to the extension. (i found it easier to keep the socket wrench off of the extension and socket until i had them placed on the plugs). remove the spark plug.
5) put in the new plug in, attach the coil pack (be careful to keep the coil pack wire away from the coil pack itself when you are screwing it back on. (i managed to pinch one of my coil wires behind the coil pack when i was screwing it back on).
6) replace the wheel well cover

I also had to remove a clip (I think i was to an O2 sensor) in order to get to the 5mm hex screws for the plug closest to the front of the car.

All in all it took me a couple of hours to replace the 6 plugs, but I'm also not a mechanic by any means.

I used the original Beru plugs for the replacements.

Porschegeorg, good job...but why did you replace them so soon?

[FrayAdjacent]

You might add:

Put a little anti-seize on the new plug's threads to keep them from getting stuck.


Doesn't sound very complicated, maybe a couple hours worth of work? Might pull mine just to see what they look like - make sure it's not running poorly since I got that P1129 code a couple weeks ago. I also need to remove and clean the MAF soon, too.

[porschegeorg]

Bill....I know I only have 4900mi on the car, but I couldnt stand the idea of having the same plugs in my car for more than 3 years. I get neurotic about stuff like that

Originally Posted by porschegeorg

Bill....I know I only have 4900mi on the car, but I couldnt stand the idea of having the same plugs in my car for more than 3 years. I get neurotic about stuff like that

How many times did you wash your hands when completed?

[UroTrash]

Did you use torque wrench? If so, did you adjust torque with the anti-seize compound? Thanks!

[djomlas]

it shouldnt take 'coule hours', maybe like an hour or so.
i will be chaning out my plugs as well as the serpentine belt. i will document it w pictures and use your guide as well so soemone who hasnt done it can see the actuall process.

thx for the writeup btw

[blinkwatt]

If you jack up one side of the car at a time you don't need to remove the wheel well cover.

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

You can change the plugs in as little as 20 min. You should use a torque wrench to insure that the plugs are properly sealed and indexed. Also, Anti-Sieze is unecessary and you run the risk of overtorqueing the plugs and stripping the Head (aluminum).

As mentioned, lift one side, slide underneath (I use a creeper). Loosen and the Coilpak screws at one time, pull the Coilpaks after marking them w/ paint pen or tape to avoid mixing them up. Pull all 3 Coilpaks (pull and slight twist). Untorque all 3 plugs with ratchet handle - not torque wrench. Hand loosen all 3 plugs and remove marking them (Cylinder #) for later inspection.

Check Gap on all new PLugs and adjust as necessary - they come pre-gapped but are notorious for being off which will affect a smooth idle. Check Spark Plug Tubes w/ finger to insure no Oil leaks. Insert and hand tighten all 3 plugs. Torque plugs to spec in 2 stages.

Insert Coilpaks on plugs, following the labels. Insert Coilpak screws on all Coilpaks - hand tighten. Torque Coilpak screws in 2 stages. Go to other side - repeat. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[porschegeorg]

I didnt use anti-seize and I didnt use a torque wrench. Call me crazy, but I've changed a bazillion plugs in my life on a bazillion different makes/models, and never torqued a-one. Never had problems either.

But now (thanks to you Jim), I'll be worrying about this until I change the plugs again!

Bill- only washed my hands 1 time per plug.

[John V]

I would never skip anti-seize on an aluminum head car. Steel threads into an aluminum head? I would not risk it. To each their own.

When using anti-seize, reduce the tightening torque by 30-40% and you won't have any concerns about thread stripping.

[djomlas]

what are the torque specs?

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by John V

I would never skip anti-seize on an aluminum head car. Steel threads into an aluminum head? I would not risk it. To each their own.

When using anti-seize, reduce the tightening torque by 30-40% and you won't have any concerns about thread stripping.

Hi,

A couple issues. Plugs s/b changed out every 2 yrs. regardless of the Manufacturers claims. This is for 2 reasons: First, you actually get the chance to inspect them and insure that the electrode hasn't broken or such. Second, you'll never have the plug seize. Plugs are cheap (possibly the cheapest thing you can do to a Porsche), it's a false economy to let them run forever.

Using an Anti-seize can actually impede the grounding of the plug as it insulates the metal-to-metal contact. Most Anti-seize compounds will actually glue the plug in place as the 'grease' cooks off from repeated heat cycles. That is, unless you use a Hi-temp Anti-seize which actually uses a metal (usually Copper) to withstand the heat. But, now you have the interaction of multiple metals going on.

Also, 50% of the torque spec is to overcome the friction between the threads. All torque specs (unless otherwise stated) assume a dry thread. If using an Anti-seize, you need to reduce the Torque spec by 50%, not 30-40%.

If you properly torque the Plugs - Dry, change every 2 years, you'll never risk stripping the threads or having them seize. BTW, the Torque Spec for Dry Threads is 30+3 Nm or 22+2 Ft. Lbs. and should be set in two stages.

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[porschegeorg]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

A couple issues. Plugs s/b changed out every 2 yrs. regardless of the Manufacturers claims. This is for 2 reasons: First, you actually get the chance to inspect them and insure that the electrode hasn't broken or such. Second, you'll never have the plug seize. Plugs are cheap (possibly the cheapest thing you can do to a Porsche), it's a false economy to let them run forever.

Using an Anti-seize can actually impede the grounding of the plug as it insulates the metal-to-metal contact. Most Anti-seize compounds will actually glue the plug in place as the 'grease' cooks off from repeated heat cycles. That is, unless you use a Hi-temp Anti-seize which actually uses a metal (usually Copper) to withstand the heat. But, now you have the interaction of multiple metals going on.

Also, 50% of the torque spec is to overcome the friction between the threads. All torque specs (unless otherwise stated) assume a dry thread. If using an Anti-seize, you need to reduce the Torque spec by 50%, not 30-40%.

If you properly torque the Plugs - Dry, change every 2 years, you'll never risk stripping the threads or having them seize. BTW, the Torque Spec for Dry Threads is 30+3 Nm or 22+2 Ft. Lbs. and should be set in two stages.

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Jim,

What does it mean to torque the 22+2 in two stages? Would I torque it to 22 and
then 24ft/lbs?

Georg


btw.....I do torque my lugs, but I do not own a smaller torque wrench for things like plugs and such. Any recommendations??? Craftsman????

I think Jim means 22 plus or minus 2???

Torque in two stages means torque once at say 1/2 the final amount all 3 plugs on that side, and then go back and do the final torque setting at 22.

Porschegeorg, are you going to be able to sleep tonight...thinking about your spark plugs!

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

No, the torque spec is 22 + 2 Ft. Lbs. First torque to 22 and then 24, that's straight from the Service Notes...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[porschegeorg]

I have my eye on a $229 Snap-on torque wrench. Perhaps if I purchase it, I'll be able to sleep better (on the couch, however).

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by porschegeorg

I have my eye on a $229 Snap-on torque wrench. Perhaps if I purchase it, I'll be able to sleep better (on the couch, however).

Hi,

Snap On is good stuff, but if you go with a top-end Craftsman, you get free recalibration (not certain Snap On offers this). That can be important because a recent SAE study of 1000 random quick release (Click Type) Torque Wrenches showed them to be as much as 50% inaccurate. So instead of applying 24 Ft. Lbs., you could be applying as little as 12 or as much as 48 ft.lbs.

The most accurate, and those used by professional engine builders, are the Beam Type. I have both and can check my quick release against the Beam Type for a fair accuracy check...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[John V]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

A couple issues. Plugs s/b changed out every 2 yrs. regardless of the Manufacturers claims. This is for 2 reasons: First, you actually get the chance to inspect them and insure that the electrode hasn't broken or such. Second, you'll never have the plug seize. Plugs are cheap (possibly the cheapest thing you can do to a Porsche), it's a false economy to let them run forever.

Using an Anti-seize can actually impede the grounding of the plug as it insulates the metal-to-metal contact. Most Anti-seize compounds will actually glue the plug in place as the 'grease' cooks off from repeated heat cycles. That is, unless you use a Hi-temp Anti-seize which actually uses a metal (usually Copper) to withstand the heat. But, now you have the interaction of multiple metals going on.

Also, 50% of the torque spec is to overcome the friction between the threads. All torque specs (unless otherwise stated) assume a dry thread. If using an Anti-seize, you need to reduce the Torque spec by 50%, not 30-40%.

If you properly torque the Plugs - Dry, change every 2 years, you'll never risk stripping the threads or having them seize. BTW, the Torque Spec for Dry Threads is 30+3 Nm or 22+2 Ft. Lbs. and should be set in two stages.

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Well, this isn't the first time and it won't be the last, but I disagree.

Yes, you must use a high-temp anti-seize. And no, it will not "glue" the plug into the chamber. The correct anti-seize for a steel plug into an aluminum head is a copper-based high temperature anti-seize. Agreed with your comment about checking the plugs every couple of years, but I'm not sure what that comment was in reference to.

Yes, I have seen steel plugs seize into aluminum heads, and no, they weren't overtorqued or left for an unreasonably long time. The electrolysis between the two metals is what you're trying to eliminate by introducing the third metal (copper). Having to helicoil an expensive head is not something I'm willing to do AGAIN because someone forgot to use the anti-seize.

As I said though - to each his own.

If I had a lot of money to buy a torque wrench, id get a digital one. My brother made a couple in college and they are super accurate. I think they may sell kits so you can make your own, but im not sure.